Edwardian Fashions

A Snapshot in Time from Harper's Bazar 1906

Kristina Seleshanko

• Publisher: Dover Publications
• Year: 2019
• Print ISBN: 9780486837239
• eBook ISBN: 9780486844893
• Topic: Design
• Subtopic: Fashion Design

Although Edwardian-era clothing remains popular among fashion enthusiasts, there are very few books focusing on styles of the early 1900s. This compilation bridges that gap with dozens of authentic images from the period, selected from 1906 editions of Harper's Bazar. Since its first publication in 1867, the magazine has reflected contemporary styles and trends, and these illustrations — from spring hats and fancy aprons to French evening gowns and bridal attire — offer an intriguing reflection of American values at the turn of the twentieth century.
The four-part collection begins with everyday fashions, including sweeping gowns for home, travel, and outdoors. A section of seasonal fashions features spring and summer ensembles, followed by an assortment of styles for weddings, the theater, and other special occasions. The final section, For the Young and Old, includes simple gowns for both ends of the age spectrum as well as graduation gowns. Costumers, fashion designers, and anyone interested in the history of style and couture will welcome this choice assembly of genuine Edwardian fashions.

SEVERE effects and untrimmed gowns do not always come under the head of simple fashions, albeit they may seem simple by contrast with the elaborately trimmed and apparently intricate styles that challenge attention by their very individuality. The truth is that simple fashions are difficult to find at this stage of the world’s progress in dress; a first glance at the new designs brought forward every season is decidedly depressing to the woman who has either to make her own clothes or to wrestle (this being a plain statement of facts) with an incompetent dressmaker who must be instructed in every detail, and watched with a never - closed eye and undiverted attention until the gown is entirely finished.

SIMPLE GOWN of cashmere or other lightweight wool goods trimmed with braid

Surely and rapidly is the fashion returning to popular favor of the trained skirt for every occasion when the absolutely short skirt is not worn. But at the same time Dame Fashion demands that her follower include in her outfit at least one street costume made short. It is perfectly possible to make the present style of simple costume at home with the aid of a good pattern. A pleated, circular, or gored skirt really short is not impossible for home dressmakers, and the sun-pleated skirt is still in fashion, and is effective and becoming. The coat rather on the sacque order is also very smart, and of course is not anything like so difficult to make as a fitted one. Rough cloths, cheviot, serge, and camel’s-hair, are considered the smartest materials, and do not require the same finish as broadcloth, only it must be remembered that all gowns look far better if perfectly sponged and pressed.

The craze for voile continues unabated, and judging from the variety of colors and designs in this material, it will be just as fashionable for six months to come as it has been for the past year. There are many different models for the voile gowns, some far beyond the possibilities of amateur dressmaking, just as the price of the material is far in excess of what is sensible to pay if one’s income is limited. But there are plenty of most charming colors and attractive designs in the cheaper qualities, just as there are many attractive, becoming and simple models for the gowns. The fashion of yoke and cuffs of lace is still a favorite for the trimming of the waist, while on the skirt pipings of satin, bias folds of the material or narrow velvet ribbon are all in fashion. Light colors are preferred to dark, and the bright rather than the dull shades are chosen. In mauve, cerise, blue, palest gray, and always white in its many different shades, there is a wide range of choice, and the cost of the gown may be reduced to a minimum if care be taken. It is always best, when possible, to have a silk lining for the skirt, but it is not necessary to buy an expensive quality, and any old skirt, even if of a totally different color, can be utilized to advantage.

SPECIAL ADVANCE DESIGN for a house gown for a middle-aged or elderly woman of good height.

Evening gowns are always a problem to those who are forced to be economical and at the same time are socially inclined. However, there never was a time when there were so many effective materials for evening gowns to be had at so little cost. Flowered silks are exquisite in color, new weaves of silk and satin come in plain colors and such exquisite shades that little or no trimming is required. For seventy cents a yard and less most effective satins can be found, and the entire cost of a gown that will wear two seasons and look well will be found to be within the reach of almost any one. At this time of year it is possible, too, to find at reduced prices trimmings that adorn these gowns most effectively.

SIMPLE CASHMERE HOUSE GOWN with silk plissée frills to match.

The eyelet embroidery that for more than a twelvemonth has been such a popular fancy finds just as many admirers as ever, and is now seen on silks and cloths that are sold at prices not so alarmingly high that the majority must pass them by. Embroidered taffeta gowns are very charming and are to be greatly in favor this season, in both light and dark colors. The charmingly attractive shades of green are popular again, and a model gown worthy of note is made of this smart fabric. The skirt has two flounces, while the waist is made with double draperies of the embroidery falling over a plain satin girdle of a deeper shade of green. In black and white taffeta these embroidered flounces are especially attractive. Like the plain taffetas, these will be seen in coat-and-skirt costumes and shirt-waist suits.

HOUSE GOWN of voile or any soft material; yoke and sleeves of lace and mousseline.

SMART BLOUSE made of a Chinese skirt; mauve silk with narrow bias bands of black satin.

“SIMPLE fashions,” “simple little frocks,” are two terms that are sadly misused in the world of dress. The simple little frock conveys to the mind a vision of white muslin and blue ribbons, or a pale gray cashmere gown such as old-time heroines of priceless merit but limited bank accounts always wore when they captured at first glance the wealthy heroes who straightway fell victims to the simplicity. Nowadays the dressmaker who takes the order for the simple little gown knows full well that it is simple only in name.

TAN VELVET BLOUSE trimmed with dull gold galloon and having a yoke and undersleeves of deep cream lawn and lace in bands.

The great majority of women, forced by circumstances to dress economically, know from their semiannual quest for what is becoming, suitable, and possible, that the simple gown presents many difficulties. Consequently the choice of the spring and summer wardrobe means the spending of far more time and thought, not to mention physical labor. than when the money question is not an important factor. Simple fashions must be chosen, that is understood; for too complex a design is not to be thought of if home dressmaking has to be resorted to, but a design that can be carried out in a figured material, and whereon trimming may be used, will be far easier of accomplishment than a design that demands perfection of cut and fit.

EVENING GOWN with redingote of blue and white striped taffeta and fichu scarf of blue gauze; under-dress of white crêpe de Chine or fine mull and Valenciennes lace.

EVENING GOWN of white tulle over which is worn a tunic of dark blue tulle with border and scattered spangles of iridescent blue.

It is not too late in the season to secure materials at much less cost than they could have been purchased a few months ago. But these must be looked for on bargain counters usually. In materials like silk, satin, voile, and crêpe de Chine, there are exquisite colorings even among the bargains. In the latter (which, by the way, seems destined to be always in fashion) a good quality can be bought for a surprisingly small sum, and no trimming is needed except the lace collar and a touch of lace as a finish to the elbow sleeves. A charming model for such a gown, and one quite easy to copy, has several rows of shirring on the skirt. A wide shaped flounce is finished with three rows of shirring above the hem, then three or five at the top of the flounce. The skirt is then plain until within a short distance below the waist, where there are rows of shirring so arranged as to form a wide bodice. Again there is a plain space and again rows of the shirring as a finish. A yoke finishes the waist, and the style is always smart and attractive. For amateur dressmaking it will be found much simpler to make the gown in two pieces, for the shirring will cover the joining at the waist-line, and the flounce, too, should be separate, put on under the shirring.

FOUR different popular styles of coiffure.

This is to be a summer when silk gowns will be extremely smart, and already the shops are filled with the most fascinating colors in pongee and rajah silks as well as in taffetas and Indias. A red, green, or blue, and the new shades of these colors are most attractive in the rajah silks, makes up charmingly, and is not expensive. A simple style is the best to choose, and the skirt with side pleats and occasionally with lines of fancy braid of the same shade, is most graceful in line. The draped bodice or girdle gives the effect of a corselet skirt. With a fine lingerie or lace waist and a short bolero, the costume is complete. An attractive fashion for these gowns consists in the hat and parasol all matching exactly in shade and color, while carrying the fad to an extreme are the stockings and slippers to match also. It is needless to say that this fashion of...

Table of contents

• Cover
• Title Page
• Copyright Page
• Contents
• Introduction
• Advance Paris Fashions (January 1906)
• Costumes for the Street (February 1906)
• Simple Fashions (March, April, and June 1906)
• Street and Travelling Gowns (April 1906)
• Outdoor Costumes (June 1906)
• Fancy Waists and Home Gowns (March 1906)
• Coming Spring Fashions (March 1906)
• Spring Hats (April 1906)
• Spring and Summer Fashions (April 1906)
• Effective Summer Gowns (May 1906)
• Summer Fashions from Paris (June 1906)
• French Evening Gowns (January 1906)
• Theatre and Reception Gowns (April 1906)
• Spring Coats and Wraps (April 1906)
• For Spring Brides (May 1906)
• Fashions for Old Ladies (April 1906)
• Simple Gowns for Old and Young (January 1906)
• Simple Fashions for Old and Young (May 1906)
• Fashions for Boys and Girls (February 1906)
• For Boys and Girls (April 1906)
• Graduating Gowns (April 1906)
• About the Author