Francis Mortoft: his Book, Being his Travels through France and Italy 1658-1659

Malcolm Letts, Malcolm Letts

• Publisher: Hakluyt Society
• Year: 2017
• ISBN:
  9781317133353
• Edition: 1
• Topic: Storia
• Subtopic: Primordi della storia moderna

This is a new print-on-demand hardback edition of the volume first published in 1925.

FRANCIS MORTOFT: HIS BOOK.

Septemb. the 1st, 1658.

Mr. George Stanley and my selfe departed from Calais and went that day to Bolongne, some 7 leagues distant from Calais, and the same day that Cardinal Mazarine departed from thence for Paris after the surrender up off by the Spanyards to the French.¹ From thence wee went the next day to Monstruel,² 7 leagues from Bolongne, 2 which is a very strong Towne with a Cittadel, Governor and Garrison.

Calais Boulogne

Montreuil-sur-mer

From thence we passed to Abbevile,³ which is 14 leagues 3 from Monstrueil, and seated in a watry Countrye, having a River running quite through the Towne. Here are exellent good Pistols made heere, which brings much profitt to those that make them.

Abbeville

Dieppe

From Abbevile wee passed the next day to Diep,¹ 14 leagues distant, and is seated betweene two mountaines. The Inhabitants are Renouned for their Navigations In farr Countryes. They make heere also very pretty thinges in bone and Ivory.

From Diep wee went to Rouen, which is also 14 leagues distant. It is the Capitol Citty of Normandy and abounds in Paires and Apples, of which the Common people make Cidar, which brings much profitt to the Inhabitants. Fish is in great Abondance in this Countrye because of the sea and a great Number of Rivers, which are in that Provence. There is a Bridge of Wood in this Citty which is esteemed for the fairest and chiefest in France, being made by such Art that it rises and fals with the Tide.²

Rouen

The Church of Notre Dame³ is the principal Church in this Citty, wherein is the greatest Bell in France, being 13 feete high, and weighing 40,000 pound, and was given to the Church by A Cardinall of Amboise. There wee saw many Priest Garments, al laid about with Jewels and Pearles, one whereof is esteemed to be worth 50,000 Crownes, and A Mitre which the Bishop weares on great Feast dayes, that is so full of al manner of precious stones that it is esteemed inestimable, and many other things which are worthy to be taken notice off by All strangers. The Protestants, of which the Towne is pretty full, have their Church some 3 mile out of the Citty, which is very large and full of people, so that sometymes there are esteemed to be above 1,400 communicants.¹

Paris

From Rouen, having stayed 3 dayes, wee went towards Paris,² which is some 28 leagues, and arrived there the 9th at night. This Citty is built in forme of A Crosse, having the River Seine on the one side, and Walls and ditches on the other. It hath 7 gates belonging to it, viz., S^t. Martin; S^t. Dennis; S^t. Antony; Du Temple; Montmartre; S^t. Honore; And the Porte Neuve. The Pont Neuf,¹ which is between the Louvre and the Convent of Augustins, was begun to be built under Henry the 3^rd, 1578. It containes 12 Arches. At the 12th Arch of the Bridge, on the side of the Louvre, is erected a Pomp which mounts the water from the River and represents the Samaritine pouring out water to Christ; upon it is a Clocke which markes the houres in the forenoone in ascending, and after dinner in discending. In the middle of the Arch is A statue of Brasse, representing Henry the great on horse backe.² On the 4 sides of the Marble Pillar, on which the Statue is placed, are graven the Principal victoryes of that King.

There are about 69 Churches in Paris, but the Principall is that of Notre Dame;¹ the length of which Church is 174 paces, the largenesse 60, and the higth 100. It contains 45 chappels and 11 gates. This Church is the first in dignity of al the Kingdome of France.

The Palais² was built under Philip the faire, which is al furnished with shopes of all sortes of comodotyes both above and below.

The Louvre³ is the Lodging ordinarily of the King when he is At Paris. The building is one of the statelyest of France, and the King’s Lodgings as Rich as any mortal man can be ambitious off. In the Chamber where he lyes is a place where his bed stands, which is al raild in with great rayles of massy silver. The Chamber and Cabinett of the Queene’s are as stately and rich as that of the King’s, and replenished with very fine and rare Pictures. There is a very fine garden belonging to it, at one side whereof is a high Alley al paved with stone, and set al along with Orange trees; there is also a very faire gallery on another part of the house furnished with the Pictures of many of the Kings and Queenes of France. Out of this Gallery there is another, which goes al along the River, and is soe long that the End of it can be very hardly discovered.

The Pallace Royal¹ is a very fine and stately building. Here the Queen of England hath her lodgings in one part of it. There is a very large and fine garden adjoyning to it, the walkes whereof are made Round about the Garden for the Play at Mall, which is a game much used in France.

Rueil

While wee were at Paris wee went to Rovel,² some 3 Leagues from the Citty, and was built by the late Cardinal Richelieu, where wee saw a very fine Invention of water workes which is so rare that it drawes many persons [to] visit it, and, since that Cardinal’s death, Cardinal Mazarine hath now bestowed it upon One of his Nieces.

About 4 leagues from Paris wee saw one of the neatest and prettyest houses for invention that is in al France, and was built by a Trades man of Paris,¹ he having, as it is reported, bestowed above 100,000 pound upon the building of it. And, indeed, for the compleatnesse and exactnesse of the building, it may be fitt to entertaine the Greatest prince in Christendome; there is also a very great garden and Parke adjoyning to it.

Essones

Wee departed from Paris towards Orleans,² which is some 32 little leagues from Paris, and arrived there the 19th of September. The faire and agreable situation of the Citty, the good fruits and principally the Wines, the Walkes, the courtesye of the Inhabitants, and the opinion which is taken, that the French tongue is spoken with more purity here then in other places, Invites many strangers to reside here.

Orleans

The Church of St. Croix¹ is the most superb of all the buildings in Orleans, but since the Civill warres for the Religion it is much ruind. The steeple hath been counted the highest in France. As for the houses in the Citty there are few stately; that of the Duke’s being A very old building, and many an ordinary gentleman’s house exceeding it. We had that morning that wee were in the Duke’s house the honour to see him,² who is a very bigg and grosse man, having a very red Countenance.

From Orleans wee went to Bloyes, which is some 10 Leagues from Orleans, and by the way turned 3 or 4 leagues out of the way to see a house called Chambourg,³ which is one of the finest and strongest houses in France. It was begun to be built by Francis the first, but he could not finish it, although there were 1,800 workemen for 12 yeares together about it. One may mount up there by a double paire of staires, which are so large that those that mount up together may speake to one another without being seene. There are about 274 degrees. Being at the Topp, one may cast a Ball or apple straight downwards through a little hole which appears belowe.⁴

Chambord

From thence to Blois are 4 leagues, where we arrived very late at night, which Citty is seated upon the River of Loire, which is joyned to the Citty by a Bridge of stone. The Castle hath beene built by two Kings of France, Louis the 12th and Fransis the 1st, part of which hath been demolished by the Duke of Orleans, who hath begun to make it a faire building.¹ By the Castle is A very fine garden seperated into two parts, high and low. Monsieur le Duc D’Orleans hath inrichd it with Divers rare simples. Within an alley of the low garden is the Picture of a stagg taken in the tyme of Louis the 12th, and having a home of 24 Branches.

Blois

The French tongue is heere spoken with much purity and eligance, which is the reason that many strangers resort hither to inhabitt. There are also a great number of Protestants in the Towne, having their Church or Temple to resort too.

From Blois wee went to Amboise, which is 10 Leagues distant, and the way all along by the River of Loire, where wee dined. It is a Citty very well seated in a healthful ground, which was the cause that the Kings of France in former tymes nourished their Children in this place. It is not a very great Citty, but the houses are reasonable well built. Theire is a very faire Castle² adjoyning to the Citty, which is built upon such a high ground that it wearyes a man very much to goe up to it. There is to be seene in a Rome of this Castle a horne of A stagge, hung up on the sealing, and of such a vast bigness that it makes the Castle famous.¹ It is not knowne whether it is made artificially or naturally.

Amboise

Tours

From Amboise, after wee had dyned, wee went toward Tours, which is 6 leagues from Amboise, and arrived there somewhat late in the evening. The Citty is very faire and agreable, the streetes are long and very cleane. The Princip...