Patternmaking for Jacket and Coat Design

Pamela Vanderlinde

• Publisher: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
• Year: 2020
• Print ISBN: 9781474235082
• eBook ISBN: 9781474235723
• Edition: 1
• Topic: Diseño
• Subtopic: Diseño de moda

Jacket design gives students and designers alike trouble, both technically and creatively; the technicality of their design and existing texts on the subject often leave novices and budding designers puzzled. Patternmaking for Jacket and Coat Design covers patternmaking techniques for seven iconic jacket and coat designs, focusing not only on the concepts needed to draft patterns, but also uniquely exploring the history of each garment design to reveal what lies behind their enduring appeal today. Each chapter provides easy-to-follow patterns for the blazer, tuxedo, military, motorcycle and Mao jackets, as well as the balmacaan and frock coats. Patternmaking for Jacket and Coat Design is an accessible, no-fuss, and visually stimulating manual for patterning iconic jackets and coats, providing a completely invaluable resource for both designers and amateur patternmakers.

CHAPTER ONE

THE BLAZER

Patterning concepts learned:

•mannish block

•3-panel style-line

•semi-notched lapel

•2-piece contour sleeve

•single welt pocket

1.1

Designed blazer front.

THE HISTORY OF THE BLAZER

1.2

Participants of the Cambridge University Boat Race, 1905, well known for wearing blazers.

The blazer is perhaps the most well-known jacket, with two equally fascinating stories behind its origin. One suggests the term blazer originated in 1825, with the jackets worn by the Lady Margaret Boat Club, the rowing club at Cambridge. The term blazer was given to the bright red cloth the jackets were made of and soon became the jacket of choice on campus for university students in the UK.

The double-breasted version has its roots in the uniforms of the British warship, the HMS Blazer, whose crew members began wearing a striped version of these jackets in 1837, the same year Queen Victoria visited the ship. It has been noted that the sailors were quite a scruffy bunch, and it is believed the captain had these jackets made in order to impress the Queen. She was indeed impressed and these blazers became the Royal Navy dress uniform.

1.3

Yale football tackle Philip Tarasovic trying on a suit jacket at J. Press., New Haven, Connecticut, 1954.

Regardless of the origin of its name, the blazer has endured the test of time and continues to evolve.

In the late 1950s, the look known as Ivy style was popular on the campuses in the United States, where the blazer was adopted by Ivy League students as a must-have wardrobe essential. Clothiers Brooks Brothers and J. Press were the go-to places to shop for the style. The look came to represent the privileged lifestyle of the wealthy elite who attended one of the eight prestigious Ivy League universities and lived the life of the “gentleman”.

“I don’t wanna be the same as everybody else. That’s why I’m a Mod, see?”

Jimmy from Quadrophenia

1.4

Mods in London, 1979, for whom blazers were all the rage.

The Ivy look was so well regarded, other cultures sought to copy it. The photographic book, Take Ivy, first published in Japan in 1965, featured candid photographs taken on the campuses of Ivy League universities. The book developed a cult-like following with the students who hu...

Table of contents

• Cover
• Title Page
• Contents
• PREFACE
• INTRODUCTION: BLOCK DEVELOPMENT
• CHAPTER ONE: THE BLAZER
• CHAPTER TWO: THE TUXEDO
• CHAPTER THREE: THE MILITARY JACKET
• CHAPTER FOUR: THE MOTORCYCLE JACKET
• CHAPTER FIVE: THE MAO JACKET
• CHAPTER SIX: THE BALMACAAN COAT
• CHAPTER SEVEN: THE FROCK COAT
• APPENDIX
• eCopyright