Pattern Cutting: The Architecture of Fashion

Pat Parish

• Publisher: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
• Year: 2020
• Print ISBN:
  9781474272384
• eBook ISBN:
  9781350194953
• Edition: 2
• Topic: Design
• Subtopic: Fashion Design

Pattern cutting, or pattern making, is an essential yet complex skill for every fashion designer to master. Pattern Cutting: The Architecture of Fashion demystifies the pattern cutting process and clearly demonstrates pattern fundamentals, enabling you to construct in both 2D and 3D, and quickly get to grips with basic blocks, shape, sleeves, collars, trousers, pockets and finishes. Pat Parish approaches the subject of pattern cutting through proportion, balance, line and form, identifying key shapes and structures from the catwalk and translating them into 3D through cutting, draping and construction processes. This popular and inspirational sourcebook has been updated to reflect new directions in construction design and techniques, and to include more advanced patterns, such as the Magyar sleeve and the jumpsuit.
With handy tips, shortcuts and tricks of the trade, the second edition of Pattern Cutting is a must-have studio resource for all budding fashion designers. It will provide you with the inspiration, tools and confidence to interpret and adapt basic patterns, and take your designs to the next level. New to this edition
- Step-by-step instructions for more complex patterns, including the Magyar sleeve, rever collar and jumpsuit
- A chapter devoted to patterns for pockets and finishes
- Invaluable information about working with different fabrics, such as neoprene and spacer
- Expanded coverage of innovation in pattern cutting, including sustainable and geometric cutting techniques
- Refreshed pattern flats and colour images
- Case studies with designers who have used cutting techniques to create unique, contemporary designs

Context

This chapter explains what pattern cutting is and gives an overview of the evolution and history of pattern cutting and how measuring the body to create standard sizes developed pattern cutting systems. It reflects on changing body shape and size over decades and changing values of body aesthetics. Instructions on creating individual sets of body measurements are clearly explained, and the tools needed to construct patterns are detailed. The role of the pattern cutter is also highlighted within the design and manufacturing processes.

What is a pattern?

The role of the pattern cutter

Body shape and size

Measuring and mapping the body

Getting started

WHAT IS A PATTERN?

A pattern can be described as a two-dimensional representation of a three-dimensional object. In clothing, this would usually take the form of a front and back set of pattern shapes that, when cut in cloth and made up, form the garment. There are many ways to create a pattern, but the conventional way would be to use a set of blocks of a specific size to represent fundamental shapes and sections of the body (such as the bodice, sleeve, skirt and trouser) and use these as the basic pattern piece outlines. There are a variety of methods to create blocks, and this is covered by several authors of pattern books. For this book, I have used the blocks created from Winifred Aldrich’s system, ‘Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear’, as I have found it most compatible with the tailor’s dummy.

EXPLORING GARMENTS THROUGH DECONSTRUCTION

It can be useful for beginners to deconstruct old garments in order to understand how they look when complete and how they look when in pattern pieces. Using old clothes, follow these steps:

•Photograph or draw front, back and sides of the garment, including details such as waistbands, collars, cuffs and pockets.

•Photograph the inside, noting how it is constructed and finished.

•Chalk or tack centre back, centre front, bust, waist and hip lines. Mark the centres of collars at centre back and sleeve centre lines by folding in half.

•Carefully unpick one-half of the garment (or the whole if you prefer).

•Photograph or draw each separate pattern piece as you go.

•Press carefully so as not to stretch the fragile pieces at the edges, and trace around the shapes.

You may then understand how the pattern shapes combine to create the garment.

BLOCKS

Blocks are created in card or plastic and are used as templates for tracing around. It is best to prepare the block shape with adjustments for the intended basic shape and general fit included. Blocks are usually generous in width, so fitted garments will need to be adjusted accordingly. There are no specific rules of how much to adjust; this is entirely dependent on the intended design outcome.

The paper pattern of the general shape is then pinned onto the tailor’s dummy, where design lines can be drawn onto it using a soft pencil, black tape or specialist removable tape. This sequence is applied in most instances.

Patterns and blocks can also be developed in 3D using draping on a tailor’s dummy. This method is covered in more detail later in the book.

Seasonal designs usually require new shapes, but it is common practice to use well-established blocks and patterns from season to season; tried and tested patterns can save a lot of time! Designers have a ‘signature’ style or design ‘handwriting’ which can be recognizable, but the need for new ideas can mean having to find new concepts and new shapes – specially created block shapes can form the foundation to a collection and hold a design concept together.

The amount of time spent devel...

Table of contents

• Cover
• Title Page
• Table of contents
• How to get the most out of this book
• Introduction
• 1 Context
• 2 Pattern Fundamentals
• 3 Shape
• 4 Sleeves, Collars and Circles
• 5 Trousers
• 6 Pockets, Openings and Finishes
• 7 Sustainability and Fashion
• Appendix
• Glossary
• Bibliography
• Index
• Image credits
• Acknowledgements
• eCopyright