Ladakh in the Twentieth Century

Dr. Sudhir S. Bloeria

• Publisher: VIJ Books (India) Pty Ltd
• Year: 2021
• ISBN:
  9789389620849
• Edition: 1
• Topic: Politics & International Relations
• Subtopic: Politics
• Index: Politics & International Relations

Ladakh, for centuries, has been a land of mystery for the people of many ethnicities. Notwithstanding a rich historical background, Ladakh today is a vastland with its own unique culture and traditions. Known by many names like the Land of Lamas, Moon land, Land of High Winds, Cold Desert and the like; Ladakh is truly the Nature's workshop, studio and art gallery all rolled in one.This book is dedicated by the author to Rigzin Namgyal Kalon, the man who did wonders for the development of the Ladakh region. Ladakh and many generations to follow would always be grateful to him and all that he did for this region and the people, irrespective of their place, caste, creed or religion.For Ladakh, with all its glory and splendid isolation; the twentieth century has been a period of great trials and tribulations, crisis and opportunities; and in the final analysis a number of downs and many moreups. The region has flourished but is still not clearly out of the woods. The author with his personal experience in the region has brought out these facets of the region in great details.

CHAPTER I

Background – Ladakh Region up to 1900

Ladakh Region: A Comprehensive Description

Ladakh, the northern most region of India forms a part of the Outer Himalayas. It is one of the most elevated areas of the earth, with huge landmass and high mountain ranges oriented in parallel chains. More famous amongst them – apart from the Himalayas - are known as Zanskar Range, Ladakh Range and Karakoram Range. It lies roughly between 32 – 36 degrees North latitude and 76 – 79 degrees East longitude. This landmass has one of the lowest population densities in the world; of just over 2 per square kilometer. Leh and Kargil being two districts of the area as also the two principal towns; which presently form this ‘cold desert’. Geologists estimate that the mountain ranges in this remote part of the country were formed over a period of forty-five million years; with the folding of the Indian tectonic plate into the Eurasian plate.

The mountain tops are usually around 20,000 feet high – if not of greater altitude – while the level of valleys varies from eight to fifteen thousand feet. The Indus River, which drains the entire region, enters the area at an elevation of 14,000 feet and flows through the territory at progressively decreasing levels – like all water courses do – till it takes a sharp bend towards the plains and by this time coming down to an altitude of around five thousand feet above the sea level.

The area endures a harsh climate on account of its geographical situation. There are considerable daily and seasonal extremes of temperature and very marked differences at any time of the year between sun and shade temperatures. Winters are severely cold with recorded temperature in the inhabited areas varying between minus twenty to minus 45 degrees Centigrade; though there is plenty of sunlight during the day time. In spite of bitter cold conditions from December to April, it is remarkable that no one has ever died in Ladakh due to exposure to low temperatures. This one parameter speaks a lot about the efficacy of mutually supportive community living in the region. Rainfall is scanty and the landscape is arid.

Ladakh of the nineteenth century, and traditionally, looked east towards Tibet; as also north to eastern Turkistan (Xinjiang); south to the plains of India; and west to the regions of Baltistan and Gilgit.

People of Ladakh region are hardy, gentle and extremely simple in habits; those inhabiting the Leh area, in addition, exude happiness around them. Their main source of livelihood had traditionally been agriculture supplemented to a large extent by animal husbandry. Rearing of cattle assumes a new importance at altitudes of over 12,000 feet, where it is not possible to raise the agricultural crop. The farming activity is mainly confined to river valleys and nullah plains and includes cultivation of wheat, barley and husk less barley. Cattle which are reared for their milk, wool and meat as also serve as beasts of burden are Yak, Sheep, Goat, Donkey, Cow and Zomo. Horse and Pony have traditionally been treated as proud possessions by local families. Pashmina goats are famous for its wool throughout the world.

The population in this area is basically of the Tibeto-Mangol, Dard and Mon stocks. Over the ages there has been quite an intermingling of the different tribal identities, but an overwhelming majority is of Tibeto-Dard lineage. Majority of the people speak the Tibetan with dialectic variations in different areas; along with Dard and Shina languages.

A thoughtful observer of Ladakhi way of life, during the olden days, has commented, “… One may only find tiny villages huddled together in the crevices of the numerous valleys like small oasis in a vast arid desert of a frozen turbulent sea of mountains. But to those who visit the area and keenly observe, may find that these villages are full of life revolving around a system regulated by climatic conditions and natural laws for thousands of years. Yes, despite the most inhospitable terrains and harsh climatic conditions, one may find that these villages have survived and thrived for centuries together. The people living in these villages have succeeded in evolving a society based on the sublime human feelings of understanding and peaceful co-existence…the Ladakhis have managed to survive in such inhospitable conditions in this part of the earth and not only have evolved an indigenous method of survival but also produced a unique culture and civilization during its journey through the ages. They had learnt to live with Mother Nature, cultivating the available land and rearing live-stocks and cattle… every Ladakhi had a roof over his head and means of subsistence for his family from the land as well as from the live-stock…the Ladakhi society was a unique example of peaceful coexistence and mutual brotherhood. People shared their joys and sorrows with each other. All the members of the society worked together like the members of a big family in which every member cared for each other. The village affairs were looked after by the village committee of elders consisting of members from all the households. Every year men were nominated to discharge the duty of village watchman and water regulator. Even the village artisans had to go to each household to mend household articles and agricultural implements. These men were paid in kind for their services by each household at the time of harvesting. In this way, the whole society manifested mutual understanding and cooperation. There were no competitions, confrontations and animosity among the members of that society… Since Ladakh is bounded by lofty mountains from all sides with few fare weather tracks connecting it to other neighbouring countries, so in old days it was essential for the residents of Ladakh to produce almost everything by themselves or barter them from the neighbouring countries during the short summer months, before the closure of all exit routes due to heavy snowfall. Under such compelling circumstances, it was obvious that every member of the family ought to have been well-versed in the art of agriculture and animal husbandry so that they could contribute something to the family coffers within the short summer months. Right from stocking of food grains to the collection of fuel and fodder, everything had to be completed well before the onset of the severe winter months.”¹

An important area of the Ladakh region has always been Baltistan. It is also the name of an old kingdom in this territory; roughly denoting that where the Dard race ends, the Baltis begin. With Skardu as the major town in the belt; the other well known places include the names of Khapalu and Chorbat. An important and largish village in this zone – Rondu – has been expressively described by a European traveler as, “…over that small area crops bear abundantly and fruits grow in luxuriance. Apricots and mulberries are the most common, and, indeed, they flourish wherever in Baltistan water can be brought to freshen their roots; but here is added pomegranate, which is rare in these hills; weeping willow too lends its graceful form to the varied collection of trees that almost hide the fields from view…The river flows past, some hundreds of feet below the level of the village, between perpendicular rocks of massive gneiss; in a narrow part of it is spanned by a rope-bridge, made of birch twigs, which is 370 feet long in the curve, with a fall in it of some eighty feet, the lowest part being about fifty feet above the stream. The approach to the bridge is over slippery rocks; the path is narrow and difficult…”

The houses in this region were generally built of stones and mud, with flat roofs. A portion of the first floor, more so in cases of comparatively affluent people, was commonly built into another storey, to be used during the summer months. The abundance of fruits here helped significantly in the local economy; as the dry fruits were a valuable commodity in the entire Ladakh region – as also beyond.

May be due to less severe winter and consequently easier life; the Baltis appear more thick-set and taller than the average Ladakhi. Also due to their embracing the Muhammadan religion – most of them belong to the Shia sect; the Baltis adopted the custom of polygamy; even though the local economy did not support an increasing population. Hence in the majority of poor population; polygamy did not become very popular. By virtue of their depressed economic condition; many of the locals went as far as Simla, in search of employment and consequently the hope of making some money through working as labourers there; as also selling their stocks of dried fruits. The Baltis also inhabited the entire Suru valley, including the town of Kargil. In fact those days; the centre of commercial activity in Kargil revolved around a cluster of shops called ‘Balti Bazaar’. Kargil was positioned almost halfway; with Srinagar on the western and Leh situated on the eastern side. The Kashmir approach passed over the Zoji La, Dras – along the Valley of Dras River – till the mountains on both sides gave way to a wide plateau of Kargil. The town being on the banks of the Suru River and also its confluence with the stream coming from Wakha side; the availability of irrigation facilities in the cultivated terraced fields of villages around has been plentiful. This situation ensured abundance of crops – of course from Ladakhi standards – of barley and wheat. There are plenty of fruit trees - mainly apricots – as also good growth of willows and poplars; primarily used for construction activity. It was an important halting and a place of rest for the people traveling from Srinagar, Skardu and Leh sides.

This area has also been fittingly mentioned as, “From village Kharul where the Dras river pours its tribute of waters into the Suru river and where the river is spanned by a bridge, the starting point for the road to Skardu, we enter the valley which goes by the name of the river Suru. This river rises in the Penzila glacier, receives numerous tributaries and ends its fairly long course at Nurla where it meets the Indus. The Suru valley is co-extensive with the limits of the Kargil tehsil. Though sharing in full the general rugged mountainous character of the entire area, this valley is on the whole more fertile than most other parts of it.”²

A brief description of some other areas of Ladakh, in addition to above, is made in the succeeding paragraphs. It also included the Deosai plateau, which lay south of Skardu and was surrounded by high mountains having an average height of about 16000 feet. The table land in between the mountains ranged from 12,000 to 13,000 feet high. Generally, the route from Srinagar to Skardu followed over Gurez and Deosai plains.

Skardu has been described in the ‘Gazetteer of Kashmir and Ladakh’ (1890), as “Skardu is situated on the left bank of river Indus; it occupies a nearly level plain of fine alluvial clay elevated 150 feet above the river, and extending from one of two isolated rocks, which overhangs the Indus towards the mountains on the south side of the valley. This rock rises to a height of 1,000 feet above the river. The neighbourhood of the rock of Skardu was doubtless selected as the site of the principal town of the kingdom of Baltistan from the advantage it afforded as a place of defence.”

The area of Dras can be taken as a thin slice of territory located between the villages of Shams Kharboo, Dras and Matayan; primarily drained by Dras River and bounded on both sides by tall mountains with an average height of sixteen to seventeen thousand feet. This narrow valley got broadened only at one place at Dras; where a track from there leads to the plateau of Mushkoo. This belt is mostly populated by the people of Dard origin.

Zoji La; a depression in the Himalayan Range – and the eastern approach to the Ladakh region; more particularly the access to Kargil and Leh. A peculiarity of this place is the steep rise from the Valley side but only a slight gradient on the Ladakh section. Zoji La has been comprehensively described as, “One of the most striking contrasts in nature manifests itself in the valley of Kashmir and Ladakh being set next to each other. The lush green verdant valley, dotted with blue lakes and capped with glacier topped mountains, is adjacent to barren, windswept cold desert highland region of Ladakh. The principal towns of Srinagar and Leh are connected by a traditional trade route running west to east. The most important landmark, on this route, also being the watershed and dividing line between the two regions, is Zoji La. In the native language “Zoji La” means “Path of Blizzards”, a befitting name for the pass, as would be sufficiently evident after studying its topography. The Zoji La is known by other names also, such as Seoji La, Baltal Kotal, Dras Pass, Zogi La and Zwaje La etc. In the great Himalayan mountain range starting from Mount Everest in the east to Nanga Parbat in the west, Zoji La is the lowest depression being 11,578 feet above sea level. All other passes are over 14,000 feet high. Though such a low pass and a simple walk under summer conditions, the Zoji La is also one of the most dangerous. It accounts for a large number of animal and human lives, taking its deadly toll by means of sudden avalanches or engulfing its victims in bottomless drifts. For the major part of a year all these passes including Zoji La remain closed due to snow and avalanches…The route from Baltal to Zoji La was just a mule track going up the steep slope of the hill overhanging the gorge of the Sind river and was usable only from May to December. In winter this was impassable and a temporary pathway, rarely traversed, used to be made over the snow which filled the gorge below Zoji La until the snow melted and the summer route became available…After the snow had fallen, only the very brave could venture to walk through, ignoring the howling winds, blinding blizzards and thunderous hurtling of avalanches. The minimum temperature there became sub-zero from mid-October and could be as low as -50 degrees Centigrade during winter months.”³

Zanskar has been a largish area situated in the south westerly direction of Leh and drained by the river bearing its name. The Zanskar river met Indus near village Nimoo and after the confluence the entire stream became Indus. The area was closed for all traffic during the winter season and remained approachable only in the summer months; from Kargil side over the high Penzi La and from Leh direction, upstream the Zanskar river. At least two ancient Gompas – Sani and Karsha – bear testimony to the social interaction of locals with outsiders. Zorawar Singh also made use of the route from Kishtwar-Paddar to Zanskar for his forays into Ladakh.

Nubra – the area is also known as Nubra valley – is drained by the Nubra and Shyok rivers, mainly by the latter and is separated from the Indus basin in Ladakh, by a great ridge of mountains. The track from Leh to this area crosses over a very high pass called Khardung La – the highest point on this being 18,300 feet; and on both sides the ascent is quite steep. The first village, a largish one, after crossing over from Leh side also bears the name Khardung. However, the average altitude of the plains of Nubra and Shyok valleys - the two parts which form the Nubra region - is lower than Leh and hence the climate here is comparatively more moderate. This, in turn, makes the area greener with the luxuriant growth of trees and crops. The most famous animal of this region being the ‘double humped camel’; although the farmers keep ponies, sheep, goats an...