Sewing Techniques

An Introduction to Construction Skills Within the Design Process

Jennifer Prendergast

• Publisher: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
• Year: 2021
• Print ISBN: 9781350411579
• eBook ISBN: 9781350241374
• Edition: 1
• Topic: Design
• Subtopic: Fashion Design

Sewing techniques are sometimes overlooked in the design process but acquiring these skills can be transformational. The ability to turn a two-dimensional design into its three-dimensional realization comes from having mastered basic sewing techniques. Sewing Techniques simplifies the often complex techniques that lie behind this process by arming designers with the precise information and skills needed to undertake each task. Designers who develop a basic understanding of the processes involved in sample and garment construction often produce successful outcomes based on a more experimental and creative approach applied during the product development process. Developing a sample folio and being able to refer to samples and develop them according to each individual design project is a process that requires experimentation and creative thought underpinned by a basic understanding of sewing techniques. This book explores the essential equipment needed - from fabric types to diagrams identifying component parts of a sewing machine, to machine operation. Throughout each process, clear diagrams accompanied by explanatory description panels allow readers to achieve the best possible results, including how to troubleshoot problems that may be encountered before and during sewing. Each section concludes with a project, progressing from easy to challenging. Fabrics for each project give designers the opportunity to handle different fabric types and understand the complexities of sourcing and selecting. Mastering the basic principles covered in Sewing Techniques will enable both fashion students and the contemporary craftworker to develop their techniques with a view to becoming creative practice-based professionals.

5.1

Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix oversees model fittings, selecting fabrics and checking the final fit.

Fit model/mannequin/form

Realizing your designs through the toile development process is very satisfying. There will be mistakes along the way but this is normal and should be expected; nobody ever produces perfect results first time. There will be amendments throughout the process, for example to the details, such as pockets and trims, as well as to the toile fitting itself.

First, choosing the right fabric to sample the toile in is essential. Although calico (woven fabric) is readily available, it won’t be any use if you are producing a garment that is meant to be made from a stretch fabric, as you will not get the correct shaping or styling you require. Therefore, try to produce the toile in a fabric closest to the one you intend to make the final garment in. It does not have to be the same, it could be less expensive, but the fabric composition should be similar.

Check your pattern against your working or technical drawing; you will then be able to check that all of the seams are in the correct position, whether they are the correct shape. Are all of the notches in the correct position and have all seam allowances and grainlines, etc. been marked correctly? If there are any discrepancies, it is essential that you check the pattern before cutting it out in fabric.

Try to enjoy this part of the sewing process; it can be frustrating but use it as a time to reflect on your designs. Try to take a flexible approach to this.

In this chapter, there is a guide to moving darts, which is essential for a fitted bodice. The importance of form and silhouette are also discussed. Step-by-step illustrations are provided to guide you through the processes of developing samples, such as fabric manipulation, sewing sleeves, cuffs, collars and pockets. These exercises will help to develop the garment and sample portfolio.

5.2/5.3

Mannequins

These female and male mannequins have detachable limbs, which allow toiles and garments to be fitted with ease. The male half-mannequin is designed for fitting jackets.

5.4

Fit models

The advantage of fit models is the ability to fit the garment to an actual person; this allows the designer to assess the comfort, fit and overall aesthetic of the garment.

Form and silhouette

5.5

Léa Peckre, F/W 2013

White dress with full skirt; this silhouette is very structured and defined.

By looking at the overall shape of the garments in the collection, the designer may assess form and silhouette. The collection should represent the ideas and concepts they wanted to convey. As regards the silhouette, for example, the ga...

Table of contents

• Cover
• Title Page
• eCopyright
• Contents
• Introduction
• Planning
• Preparation
• Closures
• Professional finishing
• Toile/muslin/prototype development
• Innovation within industry
• Glossary of sewing terms
• Online resources
• Bibliography
• Index
• Acknowledgements and picture credits