Narnia, Mordor, Westerosā¦Zion? With its castle-like walls, weeping rocks and shadowy narrows, Zion Canyon beckons like a valley of enchantment in an epic storybook.
Your adventure begins on the ZionāMt Carmel Hwy as it twists through groves of golden sandstone. Gripping the wheel more tightly, you wonder about the 1.1-mile (1.8km) tunnel ahead, a Depression-era marvel that jackhammers through a sandstone wall. And whoosh ā youāre suddenly inside its inky darkness. Arched galleries flash past, offering a whip-fast glimpse of the red rock grandeur to come. Back in the brightness, the road plummets through six tight switchbacks, squeezed close by red rock walls.
The heart of the park is Zion Canyon, a verdant valley flanked by sheer walls of Navajo Sandstone. These red rock cliffs, soaring more than 1000ft (305m) feet overhead, began as sand dunes more than 200 million years ago. After a turbulent period of geological uplift, the Virgin River and its tributaries began carving the canyon and its narrows. Today, the riparian landscape attracts wildlife galore ā as well as beauty-seeking tourists. To reduce congestion, the park prohibits cars on the canyon floor from mid-March through October and on weekends in November; park shuttles stop at nine sights and trailheads. The Kolob Canyons section of the park, home to a high-elevation scenic drive, is 40 miles (64.4km) northwest.
Southern Paiute Indians roamed these lands before the arrival of Mormon settlers in the mid-1800s. Mukuntuweap National Monument, which was named after the Southern Paiute word for āstraight canyon,ā was created in 1909. The name was changed to Zion National Monument in 1918 ā āZionā being a biblical term for a place of refuge or sanctuary ā and the national park was established the following year. Today, with its skinny slot canyons and vertigo-inducing cliffs, the park is a prime spot for outdoor adventure: canyoneering and wild hiking, from the Narrows to Angels Landing, bring the adrenaline junkies. But the allure of the park is also writ small. The low-key spots ā a weeping rock, hanging gardens, hidden ponds ā may impress you as much as the red rock.
THE VIRGIN RIVER FLOWS THROUGH THE PARK.
Getty Images | SUSANNE KREMER
Toolbox
When to go
High season is May through September, but temperatures commonly soar to 100°F (38°C) while visitors clog the canyon floor. May brings both wildflowers and bugs. Fall is cooler and ideal for hiking.
Getting there
Zion Canyon borders the town of Springdale in southwestern Utah. The park can be reached from the west or east on Hwy 9 (called the ZionāMt Carmel Highway between Zion Canyon and the east park entrance station). Las Vegas is 160 miles (257.5km) southwest via Hwy 9 and I-15. Kolob Canyons is 30 miles (48.3km) northeast of St George, Utah, off the I-15.
Park in numbers
229
Area covered (sq miles)
75
Species of mammals
6521
Height of Observation Point (ft)
Stay hereā¦
Zion Lodge
The wide and grassy front lawn here is a gorgeous place to daydream. Crisp blue skies, crimson cliffs and a homespun brown lodge frame this inspiring spot. Rooms in the lodge and its cabins channel the Old West with a bit of style ā and no TVs. Overnight guests are permitted to drive into the canyon to park at the lodge.
South Campground & Watchman Campground
A dip in the adjacent Virgin River is a pleasant way to cool off before settling into your camp chair. Once settled, cottonwoods provide the shade while sandstone cliffs offer the view. Both campgrounds are within walking distance of the Zion Canyon Visitor Center.
Under the Eaves Inn
The details close the deal at this quaint 1930s bungalow, with a clawfoot tub in the suite, arts-and-crafts style in the living room, and Adirondack chairs in the garden. Seven rooms are scattered across the main house, a cabin and a cottage.
Do this!
Canyoneering
Rappelling into a narrow slot canyon is just one part of a canyoneering adventure in Zion ā expect to do some wading, scrambling, swimming, hiking and problem-solving (āJust how do we escape this diabolical maze?ā). The names of Zionās most famous slot canyons evoke their individual charms: the Narrows and the Subway.
Cycling
Pull on your āLife is Goodā T-shirt for a morning pedal on the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. This 7-mile (11.3km) strip of easy pavement runs alongside the Virgin River as it unfurls beneath iconic big rocks, from the Court of Patriarchs to Angels Landing. No cars are allowed in high season.
Bird-watching
As you scan the skies from your perch atop Angels Landing, keep watch for California condors soaring gracefully between the sandstone monoliths ā their 9½-ft (3m) wingspan is something amazing to behold. But California condors are just the start: the bird list at Zion includes 288 species.
Hike thisā¦
01 The Narrows
Iconic and challenging, this 16-mile (25.8km) one-way hike squeezes through wet and skinny canyons along the Virgin Riverās North Fork.
02 Angels Landing
Possibly Americaās best day hike, this 5.4-mile (8.6km) round-trip trail hugs a cliff, climbs tight switchbacks and crosses a thin ridge flanked by sheer drops. The reward? An epic view of Zion Canyon.
03 Emerald Pools
Streams of water tumble into tiered pools on this 5-mile (8km) round- trip climb into Zion Canyonās greenery.
What to spotā¦
Elevation at Zion stretches from 3666ft (1117m) at Coal Pits Wash to 8726f...