Sloveniaās tallest mountain presides over an Alpine playground for hikers and rafters, made all the more enchanting by fairy-tale beasts and ancient gods.
Rippling east from Italy to Slovenia, the Julian Alps comprise hundreds of lofty mountains. But all of them cower before Mount Triglav, the tallest in the range and the focal point of Sloveniaās sole national park.
Three-peaked Mount Triglav enjoys an exalted status in Slovene folklore and history. The mountainās distinctive shape has long associated it with a triple-headed Slavic god of the same name, said to rule over the three kingdoms of heaven, Earth and underworld. In more recent history, WWII partisan fighters sported triglavkas, triple-peaked caps inspired by the silhouette of Sloveniaās highest mountain. To this day, Triglav graces Sloveniaās coat of arms and flag.
Surrounding mighty Triglav, forest cloaks more than two-thirds of the park. The SoÄa River tumbles between these tangles of beech and spruce, while a labyrinth of underground springs carves out hidden caves. Occasionally waterfalls burst forth: Savica and PeriÄnik cascades are favourite hiking destinations, while temperamental Govic only gushes when rain floods a subterranean chamber.
The limestone and dolomite bedrock of glacial lakes such as Bohinj, the largest in the country, was laid down 250 million years ago. Triassic-era fossils of ammonites are easily glimpsed, especially in Studor Pass. Considerably younger are horseshoe-shaped valleys scooped out by glaciers, and moraines dusted with boulders deposited by glacial movement. Sloveniaās most famous fairy tale, Zlatorog, offers an alternative origin story: moraines strewn with rocky rubble were kicked up by a golden-horned chamois, guardian of a treasure concealed on the slopes of Mount Triglav.
Though itās one of Europeās oldest national parks (first ring-fenced in 1924), Triglav is an outlier on travel itineraries. Fortunately, Sloveniaās tourism trump card, Lake Bled, is just outside the parkās eastern boundary. These swan-speckled waters and dramatic cliffs are a gateway drug to wilder Triglav: let yourself be lured in.
a variety of boats on the waterās edge at Lake Bohinj.
SHUTTERSTOCK/ANDREW MAYOVSKYY
Toolbox
When to go
May to September is hiking season, but mid-September brings an extra dash of creamy local flavour: the Bohinj cow parade fĆŖtes the return of cattle from the pastures.
Getting there
From Slovene capital Ljubljana, home to an airport serving numerous European destinations, the park is a 70km drive north along the E61 and west towards Bohinjska Bistrica. From Salzburg, drive 240km south along the A10; from Venice, itās 170km along the E70 and A23.
Park in numbers
880
Area covered (sq km)
2864
Highest point: Mount Triglav (m)
45
Depth of Lake Bohinj (m)
Stay hereā¦
Vila Mila
This mustard-yellow hotel is perched at the top of Bled village, just 4km south of gurgling Vintgar Gorge. Rooms and apartments within the century-old building have been spruced up to airy, light-filled perfection: beds are comfortable, furnishings are dove-grey, and thereās a pleasing vintage feel throughout. In summer, the private garden has barbecue equipment available, plus sunloungers to stretch out on. This friendly hideaway is only a 400m walk from postcard-perfect Lake Bled, the tourist magnet just beyond Triglav National Parkās eastern edge.
Hotel GaŔperin
Sigh at mountain views from this chalet-style hotel in RibÄev Laz village, within the national parkās southeastern boundary. Most rooms have flower-filled balconies with Alpine views. Breakfast buffets laden with cheese and cakes ensure ample calories for hikes around Lake Bohinj.
Apartments Koblar
For a quieter, more low-key feel than busy Bled and well-known Bohinj, try these great-value lodgings in Kranjska Gora, north of the park. Apartments are cosy and well kept, and thereās ski storage if you fancy schussing through snowy fields.
Do this!
Rafting
The SoÄa River dances across the western third of Triglav National Park. Take a white-water-rafting trip along the riverās prettiest stretch, starting from 136m-high Boka Waterfall. Not that youāll have time to snap photos: youāll be too busy being splashed by chilly spring water. In between rapids, the river widens into calm, glass-green water; here you can draw breath, taking a moment to admire limestone crags and thick forest along the banks.
Canyoning
Abseil rocky creeks, slide down cascades and get delightfully drenched on a canyoning trip to Fratarica Canyon, carved out near Log pod Mangartom in the parkās northwestern corner. The tallest waterfall you can tackle is Parabola, a pulse-quickening 45m high.
Cross-country skiing
Between January and early March, the well-groomed pistes of Vogel, off Lake Bohinjās southwestern shore, are suited to beginner and intermediate skiers. But the most majestic views can be found along its cross-country skiing trails, which wend through snow-kissed meadows.
Hike thisā¦
01 Vintgar Gorge
Crouch under overhanging cliffs and step gingerly over wooden boardwalks on this trail along the Radovna River, whose waters glow a glorious aquamarine. Itās 4km there and back.
02 SoÄa Trail
Follow the gurgling SoÄa River from its source to Bovec via 25km of easy walkways and creaky bridges through the verdant Trenta Valley.
03 Mount Triglav ascent
This tough two- or three-day hike covers 38km from Lake Bohinj up to the three-peaked mountainās summit, before descending through the idyllic Triglav Lakes Valley.
What to spotā¦
Wildlife thrives in Triglavās arid cliffs, woodlands and river rapids. Foxes, martens an...
Table of contents
Cover
Title Page
Contents
Map
Introduction
Abisko
Abruzzo
AigĆ¼estortes i Estany de Sant Maurici
Arcipelago di La Maddalena
Atlantic Islands of Galicia
Dolomiti Bellunesi
Berchtesgaden
Black Forest
Brecon Beacons
Cairngorms
Carpathian
Cinque Terre
Connemara
Curonian Spit
Dartmoor
DoƱana
Durmitor
Ćcrins
Etna
Gauja
Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu
Hardangervidda
Hohe Tauern
HortobƔgy
Jostedalsbreen
Jotunheimen
Killarney
Kornati
Lahemaa
Lake District
Lake Skadar
Lemmenjoki
Loch Lomond and The Trossachs
National Marine Park of Alonnisos and Northern Sporades
