Introduction to North Coast 500
The North Coast 500 brings together a route of just over 500 miles (516, to be precise) of stunning coastal scenery in the far north of Scotland. The route may be relatively new – launched by the non-profit North Highland Initiative in 2015 as “Scotland’s Route 66” – but the raw and magnificent landscape it traverses has been shaped over thousands of years by geological forces, glaciers and the weather systems of the North Atlantic. It’s not always an easy ride; the roads can be thin and winding, and the clouds will descend faster than you thought possible. Yet, experience a glorious sunset that turns a sea loch gold or stumble across yet another empty white-powder beach, and you’ll discover the romance of the place, too. Whether you explore opulent castles, sample a dram (or two) of whisky or take to the water on an exhilarating wildlife safari, the North Coast 500 offers a truly unique touring experience, quite unlike anywhere else in the world.
We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide with the ê symbol
The route
The North Coast 500 begins in Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, before heading north into the pastoral Black Isle, littered with prehistoric sites and home to the pretty resort town of Cromarty. After passing through Tain and crossing the Dornoch Firth, you’re on the road to John O’Groats. You’ll pass through somnolent villages and the impressive Dunrobin Castle before arriving at Helmsdale. Beyond, the landscape becomes wilder on the approach to the former fishing town of Wick.
After the obligatory photograph at the John O’Groats sign and a stop-off at Dunnet Head – the northernmost point of Britain – the north coast road passes through rolling grasslands to the surfing town of Thurso, a relative metropolis in these parts. Continuing west, past white-sand beaches and crofting townships, you reach the Kyle of Tongue; from this point forward, the landscape becomes more muscular and the weather systems more cinematic.
The north coast road continues to Durness, launch pad for an epic multi-day hike to Cape Wrath, or a less intrepid but nonetheless worthwhile detour into Smoo Cave. Heading south, it’s a wiggly single-track road towards Assynt, a region that captures the stark, elemental beauty of the Highlands like nowhere else. Through the sleepy settlements of Scourie and Kylesku you reach Lochinver, a foodie haven and excellent base for hikes to Stac Pollaidh and Suilven, just two of many idiosyncratic peaks in the area.
After dancing a ceilidh and stocking up on supplies in the wee fishing town of Ullapool, head into Wester Ross, where the road hugs the coast and there are views of Skye and the Western Isles. Whitewashed crofting houses pepper the road to Gairloch, where boat trips offer the chance to glimpse dolphins and basking sharks, as well as whales during summer. After passing through the awe-inspiring Glen Torridon and making a hair-raising ascent over the Applecross Pass – not before stopping off for some grub at one of the route’s many excellent pubs, The Applecross Inn – the retreat to Inverness begins.
Of course, the above only skims over the significant settlements and sights along the route. It’s everything that falls in between – the isolated white-sand beaches, the moody Highland cattle, encounters with friendly locals – that make the North Coast 500 what it is.
Dramatic views over the Bealach na Ba Pass.
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FIVE TOP TIPS BEFORE SETTING OFF
- Do your research Sit down with a map and plan your route before you go, using http://northcoast500.com and this ebook as inspiration on how to make the most of your trip.
- Become a North Coast 500 member The North Coast 500 memberships bring an array of benefits; see http://northcoast500.com/become-a-member.
- Book ahead Between Easter and October the North Coast 500 is busy and accommodation books up far in advance. Be sure to plan where to stay months before you leave.
- Read up on road safety The North Coast 500 encompasses some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. The roads, however, can be tricky to navigate. Our Basics section (see page click here) includes information on how to stay safe on the roads. See also http://northcoast500.com/top-tips-hitting-route/road-safety.
- Get kitted out Pack for all eventualities; you might well have sun in March and hail in August. Check out the North Coast 500’s clothing range at http://northcoast500.com/online-shop.
Meet the locals
Jon Palmer, The Cheese House
Old Police Station House, Cromarty IV11 8UY • http://cromartycheese.com
Tell us about yourself I met my wife Emmy in the Netherlands in 2010, at a point when we were both looking to embark on an adventure. Emmy suggested selling cheese, and a year later we set up the only Dutch cheese shop in the UK.
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