Foundations of Flat Patterning and Draping

For the Female Form

Larissa McConnell

• Publisher: Routledge
• Year: 2021
• ISBN:
  9781000479188
• Edition: 1
• Topic: Mezzi di comunicazione e arti performative
• Subtopic: Scenotecnica e scenografia teatrale

Foundations of Flat Patterning and Draping: For the Female Form provides the foundational tools necessary for success in the techniques of flat patterning and draping clothes and costumes.

This book begins with the basics of taking measurements, preparing the fabric for draping, and preparing the dress form. The following chapters explore flat patterning and draping practices for bodices, skirts, pants, dresses, sleeves, collars, cuffs, and facings through detailed step-by-step instructions, checklists, and numerous diagrams. The bodice drafting instructions in this book, specifically, are a new method that accommodates all bust and cup sizes. There are instructions for small and large cup sizes allowing for a fit that does not gap at the armscye as typically happens with previous patterning methods, and additional sections for bodices and sleeves and how to manipulate them to create alternate looks. The techniques in this book generalize across sizes and shapes making it universally applicable for the student technician, as well as the person the garment is being developed for. Each method of drafting and draping has been class-tested and proven to produce well-fitting garments.

Presented in an accessible format with clear instructions and detailed illustrations, this book is well suited for use as a textbook for the undergraduate college instructor teaching costuming or fashion, as well as for the student or individual learning on their own in theatre, film, or fashion industries.

Chapter 1: Tools Needed

DOI: 10.4324/9781003022619-1

To be successful with draping or drafting, you will need the appropriate tools. The following supplies are recommended. It is also useful to store smaller items you use frequently on you in a half-apron with divided sections. This will allow you to always have your supplies with you, whether at the dress form, at the drafting table, or the ironing board.

Medium weight muslin is traditionally used in draping.

Dress Form

Industrial Iron

Paper scissors

Fabric scissors

Embroidery scissors/snips

0.7 mm mechanical graphite pencil

White eraser

Tailoring pencils: red and blue

Serrated tracing wheel

60” (152.5 cm) measuring tape

2” x 18” (5.1 x 45.7 cm) clear grid ruler

1” x 6” (2.5 x 15.2 cm) clear grid ruler

36” (91.4 cm) or 48” (121.9 cm) metal ruler

24” (61 cm) aluminum vary curve ruler

12” (30.5 cm) aluminum vary curve ruler

L-square

T-square

½” (1.3 cm) black twill tape

Aluminum head 5/8” (1.6 cm) steel point pushpins

#17 dressmaker pins

Quilter’s pins

Pin cushion

Heavy craft paper – painters drop cloth paper found in large home improvement box stores – rolls come in size

35” (88.9 cm) x 140’ (42.7 m) at some stores

Tailor’s ham

Ham stand

Sleeve board

Shoulder pads

Batting

Bias strip

Definitions of Terms

In order to communicate effectively, it is necessary that you are familiar with the terminology. The following terms will provide you with the verbal tools you need. As the Cutter/Draper, you will need to know these terms, but it is just as important for everyone from the Costume Designer to the Stitcher to have knowledge of them so that successful communication can occur.

It is also important to know the hierarchy in a Theatrical Costume Shop. The following are some of the production assignments.

Costume Coordinator/Supervisor/Shop Manager

The Costume Coordinator is responsible for the daily running of the costume shop, including budgeting, purchases, time management of all of the workers, and meetings with the Designer.

Cutter/Draper

The responsibility of the Cutter/Draper is to take the two-dimensional rendering of the costume or garment design and be able to convert it into a two-dimensional pattern or a three-dimensional draping. Through communication with the Designer, and use of the renderings, they will determine the function and design aspects of the garment to be constructed.

They will use flat patterning and/or draping to create the patterns based on the measurements of the person the garment is to be made for. The two-dimensional pattern will be used in the creation of a three-dimensional garment. Usually, a mock-up is made of muslin or other inexpensive fabric that mimics the fashion fabric to be used in the final garment. They will then fit the garment on the person and alter the patterns as needed.

The Cutter/Draper cuts or supervises the cutting of all the fabric for the garment from the pattern. They will have researched the period, style, and techniques necessary to complete the garment to the Costume Designer’s specifications. They should also be able to determine the amount of fabric and trims for each garment.

First Hand

The First Hand prepares work for Stitchers, assists the Cutter/Draper in fittings, with cutting, pattern-making, stitching, and alterations. Sometimes they will do the prep work, such as preparing fabrics, gathering notions and trims, etc. They can also supervise and organize the alterations that are needed after fittings.

Stitcher

The Stitcher is the person who sews the garment together. They also have specialized skills that allow them to construct the garment based on the Cutter/Draper’s patterning and instructions, and the Costume Designer’s design. The Stitcher is supervised by the Cutter/Draper or the First Hand.

Terms

Apex – the point of the bust.

Arm plate – on the side of the dress form, the metal plate at the place of the armhole. The screw is the midpoint of the armhole.

Bias – on fabric, the 45-degree angle from grain and cross-grain. The bias will stretch and can be used intentionally to create drape on the figure.

Bias tape – a woven fabric cut on the bias to make strips.

Block/blocking – the act of stretching fabric, usually muslin, to create a perfect rectangle with right angles used for draping.

Bodice – the front and back sections for the top half of the figure.

Bust line – the line at the fullest part of the bust.

Bust point – also called the Apex, it is the point of the bust.

Cross grain – the weft thread that runs perpendicularly across the grainline.

Circumference – the measurement that is taken all the way around a part of the figure.

Dart – a section of fabric pinned out when draping, or marked out on a drafting, that creates a more fitted garment.

Dart legs – the lines on the dart that are stitched together.

Draping – a three-dimensional method of creating a garment traditionally using muslin that is pinned to a dress form.

Drafting – a two-dimensional method of creating a garment using the measurements of a figure to technically create graphed patterns.

Dress form – full-scale molded figure used for draping. They also come in ½ scale models.

Ease – additional fabric in a garment to allow for movement.

Facing – in a garment, it is the fabric piece that is sewn to create a clean edge.

Fashion fabric – the fabric used for the final finished garment.

Fashion fabric – the fabric that the final finished garment will be made of.

Grainline – the warp thread that runs the length of the fabric and is parallel to the selvedge. It is the strongest of the thread directions.

Hipline – the line on the figure or dress form, parallel to the floor, that indicates the fullest part of the hip area.

Interfacing – a stabilizing material that is used to stiffen and provide additional structure to garment pieces such as facings, collars, and cuffs. There are many types of interfacing that are for specific uses.

Lining fabric – typically, a lightweight silky fabric that finishes the inside of a garment to make the garment more wearable, long-lasting, and comfortable. It will hide seams and darts and helps make the garment easier to get on and off.

Matching notches – marks placed on patterns to indicate where the pattern pieces line up when stitching. It is traditional to use single notches on the front pattern pieces and double notches on the back.

Mock-up – a full-scale garment created from a pattern traditionally made of muslin or fabric similar to the final fashion fabric. It is created with the intention of testing the pattern’s fit for accuracy.

Mummy wrapping – a technique in padding out a dress form that uses bias tape about 1½”–2” (3.8–5.1 cm) wide to wrap the dress form after adding additional padding.

Muslin – a cotton fabric woven with a plain weave traditionally used for draping.

Notions – items used in garment construction such as buttons, snaps, thread, zippers, etc.

Panel – a section of muslin used for draping.

Parallel – runs the same direction as a particular line.

Perpendicular – is at a 90-degree angle to a particular line.

Pivot transfer method – a method of altering a pattern by pivoting the original pattern around th...