To Sea and Back
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To Sea and Back

The Heroic Life of the Atlantic Salmon

Richard Shelton

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eBook - ePub

To Sea and Back

The Heroic Life of the Atlantic Salmon

Richard Shelton

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About This Book

Combining natural history with beguiling autobiographical and historical narrative, To Sea and Back is a dazzling portrait of a fish whose story is closely intertwined with our own. 'Indispensable and powerful... To Sea and Back mingles history with biography and science... Shelton writes with a poet's ear... A writer to be prized.' -- Tom Adair, Scotsman The Atlantic salmon is an extraordinary and mysterious fish. In To Sea and Back, Richard Shelton combines memoir and deep scientific knowledge to reveal, from the salmon's point of view, both the riverine and marine worlds in which it lives. He explores this iconic fish's journey to reach its feeding grounds in the northern oceans before making the return over thousands of miles to the burns of its birth to reproduce. Along the way, Shelton describes the feats of exploration that gave us our first real understanding of the oceans, and shows how this iconic fish is a vital indicator of the health of our rivers and oceans. Above all, To Sea and Back is the story of Richard Shelton's lifelong passion for the sea and his attempt to solve the perennial enigmas of the salmon's secret life.

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CONTENTS

List of Illustrations
Preface
The Turning Point
Home at Last
At Glamis
Field Mice for Tea
The Start of a Double Life
At Altries
Drinking Like a Fish
Living and Learning
To Know the Ocean Blue
To Sea with the Smolts
Fat is a Fishy Issue
Of Bugs and Brood Stock
The Hydrographerā€™s Fish
By Ebrieā€™s Bleak Banks
On Lancelets, Lampreys and Teleosts
Children of the Sun
Of Salmon and Sea Lords
The Real Meaning of Life
The Pilgrims
Some Words of Thanks
Index

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Integrated Illustrations
p. vi Donald Is Too Late! H. Cholmondeley-Pennell, Fishing: Salmon and Trout, 1895.
p. 5 The Aberdeenshire Dee. Queen Victoria, Our Life in the Highlands, 1868.
p. 8 Gaffs. H. Cholmondeley-Pennell, Fishing: Salmon and Trout, 1895.
p. 11 Salmon below a spawning ford. F. Whymper, The Fisheries of the World: An Illustrative and Descriptive Record of The International Fisheries Exhibition 1883, 1883.
p. 13 Cock and hen salmon. Courtesy of Robin Ade.
p. 14 Salmon ova. Frank Buckland, Natural History of British Fishes: Their Structure, Economic Uses and Capture by Net and Rod, 1880.
p. 16 Hen kelt. Courtesy of Robin Ade.
p. 21 The salmon in the stone. Courtesy of Patricia Shelton.
p. 25 The authorā€™s first salmon. Courtesy of Richard Shelton.
p. 27 Julia Pastrana. Courtesy of Richard Shelton.
p. 29 Brown and black rats. Leclerc de Buffon, Histoire Naturelle GĆ©nĆ©rale et ParticuliĆ©re: Des QuadrupĆØdes, 1799ā€“1800.
p. 31 Sir Sidney Smith. Ā© Classic Image/Alamy.
p. 32 Spine from Curiosities of Natural History. Frank Buckland, Curiosities of Natural History, 1893.
p. 34 Frank Buckland holding a cast salmon. Frank Buckland, Notes and Jottings from Animal Life, 1882.
p. 38 Spencer Walpole. Ā© reserved; Collection of the National Portrait Gallery, London.
p. 45 The author and his brother Peter wildfowling. Courtesy of Richard Shelton.
p. 47 Newly hatched alevins. Frank Buckland, Natural History of British Fishes: Their Structure, Economic Uses and Capture by Net and Rod, 1880.
p. 49 Atlantic salmon parr. Courtesy of Robin Ade.
p. 54 Elsie Carstairs and her children. Courtesy of Richard Shelton.
p. 55 Cock pheasant. Lord Walsingham and Sir Ralph Payne-Gallwey, Shooting: Field and Covert, 1889.
p. 56 Archibald Ross. Courtesy of Richard Shelton.
p. 59 Jock Scott salmon fly. H. Cholmondeley-Pennell, Fishing: Salmon and Trout, 1895.
p. 61 Split cane rods. H. Cholmondeley-Pennell, Fishing: Salmon and Trout, 1895.
p. 66 Salmon smolts. Courtesy of Robin Ade.
p. 71 Ramon-y-Cajal. Ā© Interfoto/Alamy.
p. 74 European lobster. F. Whymper, The Fisheries of the World: An Illustrative and Descriptive Record of The International Fisheries Exhibition 1883, 1883.
p. 79 Scientific laboratory. Sir Charles Wyville Thomson, The Voyage of the Challenger, 1877.
p. 80 HMS Beagle. Charles Darwin, A Naturalistā€™s Voyage Round the World, 1890.
p. 82 Charles Wyville Thomson and companions. Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images.
p. 85 Recovering a dredge on HMS Challenger. Sir Charles Wyville Thomson, The Voyage of the Challenger, 1877.
p. 86 Dredging and water sampling apparatus. Sir Charles Wyville Thomson, The Voyage of the Challenger, 1877.
p. 87 Sea lily. Sir Charles Wyville Thomson, The Voyage of the Challenger, 1877.
p. 89 Captain George Nares. Ā© 2003 Topham Picturepoint.
p. 90 HMS Challenger. Sir Charles Wyville Thomson, The Voyage of the Challenger, 1877.
p. 95 Cormorant and shag. Ā© Ivy Press.
p. 96 Three-spined sticklebacks. F. Whymper, The Fisheries of the World: An Illustrative and Descriptive Record of The International Fisheries Exhibition 1883, 1883.
p. 98 Mayfly imago. H. Cholmondeley-Pennell, Fishing: Salmon and Trout, 1895.
p. 100 Post-smolt salmon. Courtesy of Richard Shelton.
p. 102 The author in Arctic waters. Courtesy of the Atlantic Salmon Trust.
p. 107 Fresh-run hen sea trout. Courtesy of Robin Ade.
p. 108 North Atlantic krill. Courtesy of Rod Sutterby.
p. 112 Snail. iStockphoto.
p. 115 Cab horse. Ā© Bettmann/Corbis.
p. 117 An early salmon hatchery. F. Whymper, The Fisheries of the World: An Illustrative and Descriptive Record of The International Fisheries Exhibition 1883, 1883.
p. 119 Frank Buckland holding a tile. Courtesy of Richard Shelton.
p. 123 Frank Bucklandā€™s salmon hatching exhibit from The Field, 4 July, 1863. Ā© The British Library Board, LD49.
p. 127 Atlantic salmon scale. Courtesy of Richard Shelton.
p. 129 Grilse. Courtesy of Robin Ade.
p. 130 Adult sandeel. Ā© Ivy Press.
p. 133 Johan Hjort. Courtesy of the Atlantic Salmon Trust.
p. 135 Open cod end net. Courtesy of the Atlantic Salmon Trust.
p. 139 Craigdam Kirk. Courtesy of Richard Shelton.
p. 140 Young family and friends. Courtesy of Richard Shelton.
p. 142 Jar of worms. Ā© Caroline Church.
p. 144 Immature sea trout. Courtesy of Robin Ade.
p. 146 Hen sea trout. Courtesy of Robin Ade.
p. 150 Lesser spotted dogfish. Ā© Wildlife GmbH/Alamy.
p. 152 Lancelet. Paul Whitten/Science Photo Library.
p. 154 River Chess. Courtesy of Richard Shelton.
p. 156 Sea lamprey, lampern, Planerā€™s lamprey and pride. William Houghton, British Fresh-water Fishes, 1895.
p. 159 Fossil teleost fish. Courtesy of Dr. Mark V. H. Wilson, Laboratory for Vertebrate Paleontology, University of Alberta.
p. 161 Lantern fish. Richard Ellis/Science Photo Library.
p. 164 Smelt. William Houghton, British Fresh-water Fishes, 1895.
p. 170 Drift netting. F. Whymper, The Fisheries of the World: An Illustrative and Descriptive Record of The International Fisheries Exhibition 1883, 1883.
p. 173 Male basking shark. Frank Buckland, Natural History of British Fishes: Their Structure, Economic Uses, and Capture by Net and Rod, 1880.
p. 175 North Sea cod. Frank Buckland, Natural History of British Fishes: Their Structure, Economic Uses and Capture by Net and Rod, 1880.
p. 179 Humpback whale. Ā© Ivy Press.
p. 181 Scrimshaw. Ā© Tony Arruza/Corbis
p. 182 Whalers and harpoons. F. Whymper, The Fisheries of the World: An Illustrative and Descriptive Record of The International Fisheries Exhibition 1883, 1883.
p. 184 Minke whale. Ā© Ivy Press.
p. 186 Balmoral Castle. Queen Victoria, Our Life in the Highlands, 1868.
p. 188 Flask. Ā© Caroline Church.
p. 190 Hen salmon. Courtesy of Robin Ade.
p. 192 Leaping grilse. Ā© Emily Damstra.
p. 194 Arctic Charr. William Houghton, British Fresh-water Fishes, 1895.
p. 196 Salmon trout. William Houghton, British Fresh-water Fishes, 1895.
p. 199 Grey whale. Ā© Caroline Church.
p. 203 Otter. Mary Evans Picture Library.
p. 204 Victoria Bridge. Getty Images.
Picture Section
1. The salmon in the stone. Courtesy of Patricia Shelton.
2. Frank Buckland. Ā© The Royal College of Surgeons.
3. The cover of the Curiosities of Natural History. Frank Buckland, Curiosities of Natural History, 1893.
4. Bucklandā€™s fish museum. Ā© The Royal College of Surgeons.
5. Cock salmon in breeding dress. Courtesy of Robin Ade.
6. Hen salmon in breeding dress. Courtesy of Robin Ade.
7. Salmon Parr. Sarah Bowdich, The Fresh-Water Fishes of Great Britain, 1828. Ā© The British Library Board, L.R 404.C.S, plate xxix.
8. Seven Salmon. Sarah Bowdich, The Fresh-Water Fishes of Great Britain, 1828. Ā© The British Library Board, L.R 404.C.S, plate xxxvii.

PREFACE

THE sea-run Atlantic salmon is an extraordinary fish. Large and classically proportioned, during its relatively short life it bestrides the two very different worlds of fresh and salt water. Its migrations far into northern seas to grow and subsequent return to its place of birth to breed are nothing less than heroic, and that return, with its dramatic leaps at falls, offers a wildlife spectacle no other fish can match. Its presence ā€“ or its absence ā€“ is a vital indicator of the relative health of our rivers and seas. Over the millennia, it has accrued totemic as well as culinary importance to the societies that caught it and for most of the last one it has enjoyed the conservation benefits of laws carefully drafted to protect it. Down the long years, the ancient statutes and their successors kept the great fish safe until, over little more than two centuries, first the rivers and estuaries and finally even the seas themselves, fell foul of industrial manā€™s capacity to plunder the priceless resources he had inherited. For the first time in its long evolutionary history, the survival of the Atlantic salmon as a species can no longer be taken for granted. Many populations have been lost or put at risk, but the enduring power of this remarkable fish to capture the imagination of naturalists and sportsmen has so far proved a sure shield against its extinction.
Since 1967, this fish has had a charity, the Atlantic Salmon Trust, all to itself. It has been my privilege to act as the Trustā€™s Research Director over a period when scientists much more able than I have revolutionized our understanding of this great yet resolutely enigmatic fish. As observation and experiment have unfolded new insights into the lives of salmon, so the results have appeared both individually in the scientific literature and combined with the outcomes of earlier work in a number of excellent books that provide a systematic summary of current knowledge. It is far too soon to make any attempt to add to their number but my editor, Angus MacKinnon, has persuaded me that it is not too soon to put together a few discursive reflections of my own. The result is not just a book about the salmon, although its life certainly provides the connecting thread. It is also, taking it...

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