Slovenia is small, compact, and incredibly diverse. From the central location of the capital, Ljubljana, almost anywhere can be reached in less than two hours. If you do not have a car, efficient buses link the capital to the most remote regions.
First-time visitors should start in Ljubljana, then explore the sublime mountains and lakes of the northwest, and round off with the splendid Venetian coastal towns of the southwest. The main draws of the northwest are the majestic alpine landscape of Triglav National Park and the turquoise River SoÄa. The southwest is known for its ācoast and karstā: the Italianate sea towns of Koper and Piran, the commercial resort of Portorož, plus the mysterious caves of Postojna and Å kocjan, and Lipica Stud Farm. Less visited by foreigners but dear to many Slovenes, the southeastās architectural treasures include the monasteries and castles of Krka Valley, plus several spas. The flatter landscape of the northeast leads to the border with Hungary and the old Baroque towns of Maribor, Ptuj and Celje; there are also sophisticated thermal spas and a network of wine roads with cellars open to the public.
View of Ljubljanaās rooftops from the castle
Neil Buchan-Grant/Apa Publications
Ljubljana
Compact, easy-going and friendly, Ljubljana 1 [map] is a remarkably human city. The River Ljubljanica, crossed by elegant bridges and lined with weeping willows and open-air cafƩs, flows through the heart of the Old Town, lending an air of informality to the cobbled streets and Baroque buildings, while the whole scene is presided over by a proud hilltop castle. The city was founded in the 1st century BC by the Romans, who built a fortified military encampment, named Emona, on the left bank of the river, which was destroyed by the Huns in the mid-5th century AD. Slavs founded a second settlement on the right bank below the castle hill in the area that is now Old Square (Stari trg) and Town Square (Mestni trg), the heart of the city in the Middle Ages. This was largely destroyed by an earthquake in 1511, and rebuilt in Baroque style. After another earthquake, in 1895, new buildings took the Secessionist style, the Viennese Art Nouveau.
In the 1980s, Ljubljana was Yugoslaviaās centre of underground culture, with punk rock bands and satirical magazines. Todayās alternative scene lives on through the thriving student community, a large chunk of the cityās 280,600-strong population.
The rose-red Franciscan Church by the River Ljubljanica
Slovenia.info
Around PreŔeren Square
Lying at the heart of the city is PreÅ”ernov trg (PreÅ”eren Square), giving onto the Ljubljanica. Watched over by a bronze statue of poet France PreÅ”eren (1800ā49; for more information, click here), this square has a couple of notable Secessionist buildings, the Urbanc occupied by Centromerkur, Ljubljanaās oldest department store, and the Hauptman House (Hauptmanova hiÅ”a). To the left is a small relief of Julija, PreÅ”erenās lifelong love. City-dwellers meet on the steps that lead up the rose-and-cream faƧade of the 17th-century Baroque Franciscan Church (FranÄiÅ”kanska cerkev).
Born in Ljubljana in 1872, PleÄnik studied architecture in Vienna under the great early Modernist Otto Wagner, moving in 1911 to Prague where he supervised the renovation of HradÄany Castle and lectured at the School of Arts and Crafts. He returned to Ljubljana in 1921, became head of the universityās new Faculty of Architecture, and set about transforming the face of the city, adding the Triple Bridge, the Shoemakerās Bridge, the National and University Library, Križanke Summer Theatre, Trnovo Bridge, the Central Market, Žale Cemetery and the Church of St Michael on the Marshes, all in a curious blend of Classical and Art Deco. PleÄnik House, (PleÄnikova hiÅ”a), his charming former home and studio, is at Karunova 4, in the eastern suburb of Trnovo (TueāSun 10amā6pm; www.mgml.si/plecnikova-zbirka).
MikloÅ”iÄeva, the thoroughfare to the right of the church, is lined with Secessionist buildings, notably the white Grand Hotel Union by Josip VancaÅ” (1905) and the elegant former Cooperative Bank by Ivan and Helena Vurnik (1922), with colourful geometric patterns. MikloÅ”iÄeva leads north to the train and bus stations.
From PreÅ”eren Square the splendid white, three-span Triple Bridge A [map] (Tromostovje) by Jože PleÄnik connects the city centre to the Old Town and gives visitors their first taste of the ingenious works of the famous architect.
The Old Town
Though largely Baroque, the Old Town dates back to medieval times and is the only part of the city to have survived the 1895 earthquake. To the right of the Triple Bridge, the waterside promenade of Cankarjevo nabrežje is lined with cafĆ©s, and holds the Sunday morning flea market, with stalls selling antiques and bric-a-brac, including memorabilia of Communist Yugoslavia.
Left of the Triple Bridge lies the Central Market (Glavna tržnica), an open-sided colonnade designed by PleÄnik in 1939. It runs upstream all the way to the Art Nouveau Dragon Bridge (Zmajski most). The green dragons at its four corners are said to wag their tails each time a virgin crosses the bridge. Inside the Central Market, the lower level beside the water has fishmongersā stalls, while the upper level accommodates a variety of goods. The landward side opens onto Vodnikov trg (Vodnik Square), where a colourful market is held (MonāSat, most stalls around 7amā2pm), with stallholders selling seasonal fruit and vegetables, fresh flowers, honey, beeswax candles, dried herbs and clothes.
Dragon Bridge ā the dragons are said to wag their tails
Neil Buchan-Grant/Apa Publications
West of Vodnik Square stands the 18th-century Baroque Cathedral of St Nicholas (Stolna cerkev svetega Nikolaja), designed by Italian architect and Jesuit monk Andrea Pozzo. Close to the river, it is aptly dedicated to St Nicholas, the protector of sailors and fishermen. The modern bronze doors commemorate Pope John Paul IIās visit in 1996.
Between Vodnik Square and the castle hill, at Krekov trg (Krek Square) 10, lies the Slovenian Tourist Information Centre (tel: 01-306 45 75; www.visitljubljana.com). Check out cultural events, book places on guided city tours, collect free brochures and maps, or hire a bicycle here.
Close by is Mestni trg (Town Square), a cobbled square overlooked by the 18th-century Town Hall (Rotovž). The charming Baroque Robba Fountain (Robbov vodnjak), a three-sided obelisk, was designed by the Italian Francesco Robba in 1751 to represent Sloveniaās t...