Digital Pattern Cutting For Fashion with Lectra Modaris®

From 2D pattern modification to 3D prototyping

Patricia Grice

• Publisher: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
• Year: 2018
• Print ISBN:
  9781350065123
• eBook ISBN:
  9781350105072
• Edition: 1
• Topic: Design
• Subtopic: Fashion Design

Design your own original 2D patterns and use 3D prototyping to test your designs, achieve the perfect fit and make quick alterations. Pattern Cutting For Fashion with Lectra Modaris ® will guide you from the basics of pattern modification through to 3D realisation, alteration and visual effects, as well as the completion of a finished production pattern. By viewing your garment in a virtual environment first, you will also be able to make design, colour, print and fabric decisions prior to toile making. Workshops include: A basic t-shirt; Dart modification; Darts into seams; Darts into Flare; Button wrap and facings; A Basic Jean; Pleats in a Skirt /Trouser with pocket; A shirt with two piece collar /yoke; Modelling on the half scale stand and converting pattern to full scale.

CHAPTER 1

How It Works

LEARNING OBJECTIVES

•Getting to know Modaris Classic

•How to use the Mouse, Screen and Keyboard effectively

•Learning the keyboard shortcuts

•How to navigate and identify menus on the screen

•How to open and save a (Model) pattern

•Identification and application of the Function Tools

•Exercise 1 – How to Open and Save a Model/Navigate the screen/Menu and keyboard identify/Bring up a selection of pieces

Modaris Classic uses the Windows operating system.

This specialist pattern making software can be used for all stages of pattern development from initial pattern digitization to 3D Virtual Prototyping.

In this book, I have covered what I consider to be the most important functions to enable you, the student, to gain a good understanding of the most frequently used and relevant tools in digital pattern development.

It is important to point out that Modaris is used differently by users, because many tools replicate similar functions. I would not advise that earlier tools or functions become outdated, as the basic principles of the software must be followed before the user can advance to the expert levels. As mentioned previously, upgrades to Modaris Classic are continually added to improve and enhance efficiency, but these do not replace the original formula.

You will discover that there is always more than one way to achieve the same result.

As we progress, with practice and experimentation you will be able to decide your preferred way of working.

I feel that it is also important to include the basic ‘How to’ at the beginning, as even after initial training, as we progress, a reminder of how, where and why can be very helpful.

A short exercise/task is provided at the end of this chapter to help you to remember and practise these basic Functions and their application.

A TSHIRT_BLOCK is available for download.

The mouse, screen and keyboard all work together in the creation and modification of the patterns pieces. Function tools provide access to the software commands.

HELP

There is a useful Help tool located at the top right of the screen on the Menu Bar. Here you will find most topics covered.

TIP: When a function is activated (clicked on) – click on the Semi-colon (;) on the keyboard.

This is the short cut to the Help Menu.

A text document opens offering advice on the topic activated.

We will start by looking at how this works, and how to navigate the screen, open and save a pattern.

The mouse, screen, keyboard all work together (Figure 1.1). The pattern is referred to as a MODEL.

figure 1.1

MOUSE

The Left and Right mouse buttons are very specific to the tasks in hand:

Left click usually for selection.

Right click to end a command, multi selection (and other processes described as we progress).

Middle scroll button can be used to undo the last click – in certain functions or in V8 it is used as the Zoom feature.

To open Modaris Double click on the Modaris icon on the desktop and maximize the screen (top right).

SCREEN LAYOUT

The main areas on screen that you need to familiarize yourself with are shown in Figure 1.2.

The version of Modaris is displayed in the top left-hand corner of the screen.

Desktop – The large Grey area – this is where all Pattern Pieces are created. (Think of this as your pattern cutting table, Figure 1.2.)

Dropdown Menus (top bar) – have choices for specific tasks and will be referred to as we progress. But menus worth initially identifying are:

Config (top right) – Icon/Text to change the view of the Task Menu (Functions) – The Current Sheet view can be changed to Words instead of icons. The default setting is the Icons – I find changing to the Words view preferable, but again, the choice is yours.

Ctrl S – Short cut

Parameters (top right) – Length Unit – click and hold and slide to the right – check cm is ticked.

In this book, all measurements are presented in cm. It is possible to work in other units if required. All of these are changeable under this menu.

figure 1.2

TIP: The default is set to mm – so, if when activating a measurement and it does ...

Table of contents

• Cover
• Half-Title Page
• Title Page
• Dedication
• Contents
• Acknowledgements
• About This Book
• A Bit About Lectra
• What Is Digital Pattern Cutting?
• Introduction To Modaris Classic And 3D
• How To Use This Book
• Information For Blocks And Patterns
• 1 How It Works
• 2 What Is Digitizing?
• 3 Getting Started
• 4 Moving On – Industrialization
• 5 Introduction And Preparation For 3D
• 6 3D Virtual Prototype
• 7 Confidence Building Workshops
• 8 3D Advanced
• 9 Advanced Workshops
• 10 Quick Reference Guide
• Copyright