Shocking Life: The Autobiography of Elsa Schiaparelli

The Autobiography of Elsa Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli

• Editore: V&A Publishing
• Anno: 2007
• ISBN:
  9781851776702
• Edizione: 2
• Argomento: Design
• Categoria: Fashion Design

Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973), one of the leading fashion designers of the 1920s, '30s, and '40s, was known for her flair for the unusual.

The first designer to use shoulder pads and animal prints, and the inventor of shocking pink, Schiaparelli collaborated with artists including Jean Cocteau, Alberto Giacometti, and Salvador Dalí to create extraordinary garments such as the Dalí Lobster Dress.

Schiaparelli had an affluent clientele, from Katharine Hepburn to Marlene Dietrich, who embraced her outrageous but elegant designs. She designed aviator Amy Johnson's wardrobe for her solo flight to Cape Town in 1936 and the culottes for tennis champion Lilí Álvarez that outraged the lawn tennis establishment, and her clothes appeared in more than 30 films, including Every Day's a Holiday with Mae West and Moulin Rouge.

Schiaparelli's fascinating autobiography charts her rise from resident of a rat-infested apartment to designer to the stars.

First published in 1954, this book is part of the V&A Fashion Perspectives Series. Selected by V&A publishing in consultation with our world-leading fashion curators, the Fashion Perspectives series offers an access all areas pass to the glamorous world of fashion. Models, magazine editors and the designers themselves take readers behind the scenes at the likes of Balenciaga, Balmain, Chanel, Dior, Harper's Bazaar and Vogue in the golden age of couture.

Chapter One

St Peter’s Church and St Peter’s Square, children of a mammoth brain and unique in the world, spread in a circle like the claws of an enormous crab or implacable octopus, or again with the tenderness of a mother whose long arms of colonnades are ready to take in all lost people, all souls that want to be saved, with a power unchallenged on earth.

Into St Peter’s at Rome one day came a small procession – a learned-looking man with a grizzled beard, a sweet woman not so young, a girl of ten with markedly Roman features and long black plaits, and a nurse dressed like all the balias of Rome in voluminous skirts of various colours, a tight velvet bodice, and a huge and complicated bow in tartan colours on the tresses framing her face like a halo.

She was carrying a baby in her arms.

The procession, moving forward, seemed lost in the immensity of the church. Here was the bronze statue of St Peter shining in the twilight, its feet worn by the kisses of many pilgrims.

Marble and gold shimmered in the shadows. A priest waited at the font.

Now the ceremony began. ‘I christen you . . .’ began the priest. Then suddenly: ‘By the way, what is the baby’s name?’

There was a horrified silence.

Nobody had thought of finding the baby a name, for the baby was a girl and everybody had hoped for a boy. Before its arrival, the learned father had pondered over oriental books – the Koran, and even the Thousand and One Nights – for suitable boys’ names. But when the baby turned out to be a girl interest dropped, and the family ceased to bother about finding a name.

‘Can’t you think of anything to call her?’ whispered the priest urgently.

The nurse, who revelled in German music, breathed her own powerful Wagnerian name:

‘Elsa.’

As nobody had a better idea the suggestion was taken up. Never was a name less appropriate. It was to prove Schiap’s first disappointment. The struggle had begun.

The procession filed back to the Palazzo Corsini where Schiap was born, moving slowly through narrow streets called vicoli.

The Palazzo Corsini is in the Trastevere, the oldest and most Roman of all districts. On one side of the Palazzo was a lunatic asylum and on the other a prison, but the Palazzo itself stood amongst heavy-smelling magnolia-trees. The garden was set out in mathematical squares with rows of tangerine- and lemon-trees, and the front of the house faced the Gianicolo Hill, one of the most famous parks in Rome. On the top of the hill is the statue of Garibaldi riding a galloping horse, and not far away is the Farnesina.

There is a myth that when Schiap was born an explosion rocked Rome. In fact, the explosion came some time later. The powder works of San Paolo blew up, and the plaster of the walls crumbled to nothing. Schiap is confident that she can remember this event. The noise was frightful and several windows in the Palazzo were broken.

The balia was terrified, and with the baby clinging to her breast insisted on being driven round the city in a cab, presumably to see how much of it still remained intact. She and her charge were put down at the Caffè dei Caprettari, a famous coffee-house at the back of the university which was so countrified that goats roamed freely. This apparently quieted her.

There was a terrace bordered with bright pink begonias, and Schiap’s crib was wheeled there and she would be left for hours under a pepper-tree. This she remembers clearly, though she was only a year old.

This terrace was outside the windows of the library, the Biblioteca dell ’Accademia dei Lincei, and for some curious reason the library itself remains a memory more of infancy than of girlhood.

It seemed, of course, enormous with its tall pillars and huge mappemonde. Even at this early age it enveloped me with a delicious sense of peace and aloofness, quite different from the rest of what I knew. When I was older I was allowed to examine wonderful illuminated books in which figures of dream-like character were hand painted under blue and blood-red skies.

Later, my father’s private library became my haven and my joy. I found, within the pages of rare and priceless books, a dream world of ancient religions and the worship of the arts. At my father’s death my mother gave his books to the National Library. I was terribly sorry. I would have loved to own them.

My Wagnerian balia turned out to be a drunkard and a pest. The bottles hidden under her wide skirts used to jingle as she carried me about. This noise puzzled my most abstemious parents, who did not, however, guess the truth until my sister innocently revealed to them one day that my balia would park me in a very low-down ‘pub’ in the Trastevere while she drank.

She was immediately dismissed, and the hungry, howling baby was left without a nurse. There was now a feeling that I had been fed more often on wine than on the milk of the balia’s breast. There were no wonderful American patent foods in those days, no vitamins, no medically prepared nourishment for babies, so my father used to get goat’s milk for me, keeping the bottle warm under his coat, and this helped me to become, I fear, both revolutionary and stubborn.

Goats have played an important role in the history of my family. My mother was brought up on the island of Malta, and like most of the children of well-to-do parents was fed on goat’s milk. In fact, a goat was assigned to each house on the island. It would climb the stairs at the right time without being told to, would be cleaned by the maid, and then would feed the baby.

My mother’s mother was partly of Scottish origin (her father was the English consul in Malta) and was brought up in the Far East. At the age of twelve she married my grandfather, an Italian from Salerno, and gave him five children, of whom my mother was the youngest, before dying at the age of twenty. Her husband, at one time a political exile, was imprisoned by the Bourbons, but escaped while an uncle took his place in jail. The uncle did not come out of prison for years, by which time he was blind, but my grandfather went to Egypt, took up law, and became adviser to the khedive. He must have occupied a very important position, because when he died he was carried by the people to his grave. My mother was then ten and an orphan. She was tutored by a friend of the family, Count Serristori, in Florence.

My father came from the industrial district of Piedmont. A sister of his became head of all the convents in Italy, a brother became a famous astronomer.

My father was a solitary person who, in general, did not like people. He divided his life between the university, his studies and oriental researches, his Persian, Sanskrit, and Arabian books, and later his wonderful collection of coins which he used to exchange with the King of Italy, who, as everybody knows, was an enthusiastic numismatist.

He never went to anybody’s house, except one evening each week when he visited a very old friend, and this was such an event that the next morning I would find a sweet on the table by my bed to show that my mother (who always accompanied him) and he had thought of their little girl on this adventurous night. My mother was not allowed to attend court functions because etiquette demanded a low-necked dress, and this my father would never have allowed.

My father went for a walk at six every morning, when people were not yet up, and at two in the afternoon when it was so hot that the streets were again empty, people remaining indoors to enjoy the siesta. He much preferred the heat to meeting people.

He liked to climb the highest point everywhere. When we travelled together his first idea was to climb the highest building or the tallest tower in the town, and he made me follow him, though I could not stand heights or looking down into space. I would roll myself up into a small ball of childish distress and close my eyes.

In spite of his long silences he was kind. The dishes he liked best were those made with cod. I have never quite understood his relations with my mother or how they happened to have two children in ten years.

When I was three or four he engaged a Zulu nurse for me so that he could study her language. She was a terrifying person – very black, bony, and tall, with a mop of short white hair, a foretaste of the 1920 craze for bobbed hair. Holding a flickering candle, she would come noiselessly into my dark bedroom to say good night. She would sit at the foot of my bed and whisper:

‘I love you so much. I have buried all the people I have loved. I want to bury you too.’

When we passed through the narrow streets of the Trastevere, the urchins would run after us with stones, crying out: ‘Go away, Queen Taitou!’ for there was a wave of bad feeling against the Abyssinians, and as she was black she was always mistaken for one. The only consolation she could think up after such an outrage was to take me to a cake shop and practically choke me with cakes and cream.

Schiap was an ugly child as standards go. Just then she had enormous eyes and looked half starved.

The Zulu nurse was obviously not a success. A German woman called Metzinger (butcher) came to take her place. She taught me German which I quickly forgot, but for Christmas she had an enormous fir-tree sent to her from the Black Forest. It was so tall that it touched the ceiling, and its branches were covered with angels and tinsel.

About this time I told my first lie.

I loved to sneak into the kitchen to eat a special bread made with yellow corn that was never served at the parental table, and then, of course, I would gossip with the servants. One day, to get round the cook, I invented a story to make her sob.

I began quietly:

‘You don’t know, Rosa, how good and kind my parents are to treat me just as if I were their real daughter.’

Rosa’s eyes grew large and bright with interest.

‘What do you mean?’ she queried.

‘I am not their daughter at all, Rosa. I am a poor foundling on whom they took pity. They have adopted me. It’s a secret and you must never repeat it.’

Rosa’s eyes were now filled with tears. I cried also. We held hands and swore to keep silence, but it soon proved too much for Rosa, who began looking at my mother in a curious way, sighing, and trying to give her touching proofs of added fidelity and comprehension. Puzzled, my mother questioned her:

‘What’s come over you, Rosa?’

‘Oh, madam, you are so good, so very good.’

‘Rosa, are you hiding something?’

‘Madam, it’s the child, the poor little orphan child – the foundling.’

‘The foundling?’

‘Yes, madam, and to think that you treat her just like your own child! Oh, madam, it makes me weep.’

Then the truth came out.

My father, normally so very gentle, pulled up my skirt and gave me the first and only spanking I have ever had. The poor man was furious. I could not believe that he had so much strength in his arm. He was the essence of honesty and he would not even countenance the slightest trimming of truth. For days after that I would slink up to a mirror and examine the big red streaks on my behind. It was a long time before I could sit down.

As a child Schiap was definitely difficult. She still is. But just then her mother began making disparaging remarks about her looks. She was always being told that she was as ugly as her sister was beautiful. So Schiap, believing that this was really so, thought up ways of beautifying herself.

To have a face covered with flowers like a heavenly garden would indeed be a wonderful thing! And if she could make flowers sprout all over her face, she would be the only woman of her kind in the whole world. Nasturtiums, daisies, morning glories all in full bloom! With some difficulty she obtained seeds from the gardener, and these she planted in her throat, ears, mouth. She felt they ought to grow faster on her warm body than in the soil outside. Thus she sat waiting for the result.

Alas, in this matter-of-fact world, the result was merely to make Schiap suffocate! Her mother, in a panic, sent for a doctor to remove all these dreams and illusions from her far too imaginative daughter. Another medical man found later, after seven unsuccessful attempts, that his young colleague had left a piece of cotton wool in the little girl’s nose which had grown as hard as stone. This may have been serious from the medical point of view. For Schiap the chief disappointment was that no flowers grew to turn her into a beauty.

There was no punishment from her father on this occasion.

What a cultivated man he was, and how amazingly modest!

Though few of his works were published, learned men still consult his manuscripts on oriental subjects. Of course, collectors from all over the world came to see his coins. A kind, gentle man, deeply attached to his family, a good citizen, an incorruptible patriot, his refusal to accept honours and decorations was sometimes interpreted as scorn. But in reality he was shy and indifferent to the praise of the world at large. With his family he was stern. With himself he was rigid and honest.

There was an attic in the house with a deep chest in which my mother kept her wedding gown and many old dresses.

I spent long hours up there, emptying the trunk and trying everything on. There were white pads that in my mother’s youth women placed behind them, keeping them in place with string knotted in front, so that all the emphasis should be given to the curves of the behind and, in front, to their bosoms, which were held very high. I thought this a very pretty fashion, and I still think so.

There were undergarments of amazing delicacy, trimmed with yards and yards of real lace, flimsy blouses with whale-boned necks trimmed with lace or embroidery, long skirts of all colours (though my mother had very sober tastes) and with tiny waists. I spent hours and hours examining these treasures, trying to imagine what my mother was like when she was young.

I went to school. Not the school of today where everything possible is done for the child, where her wishes are respected and her possibilities studied. My school was a dreary cell of hard discipline and no questions.

I do not know which is the best system, the old or the new.

Yes, Schiap’s school was plain, cheap, and dull. The class mistress looked like a hawk, and resented the new girl’s personality. Friction arose almost at once. Schiap hated her and the mistress hated Schiap, telling her that she would end up alone...