Sustainability

How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up

Amarjit Sahota, Amarjit Sahota

• Publisher: Wiley
• Year: 2014
• ISBN:
  9781118676486
• Edition: 1
• Topic: Sciences physiques
• Subtopic: Chimie

Sustainability has come to the fore in the cosmetics and personal care industry. Rising ethical consumerism and the need for resource efficiency are making cosmetic companies – small, independent firms to global giants – take steps towards sustainable development.

Sustainability: How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up discusses the growing importance of sustainability in the cosmetics industry, highlighting the various ways organisations can address the economic, environmental and social aspects. How can the cosmetics industry make a difference in terms of ingredients, formulations, packaging, CSR, operations, and green marketing?

Topics covered include:

• Environmental and social impacts of cosmetic products
• Ethical sourcing and biodiversity
• Renewable energy and waste management
• Green formulations and ingredients
• Green marketing issues and consumer behaviour
• Green standards, certification schemes and indices in the cosmetics industry

Industry experts share their experiences on how they are tackling the challenges of sustainability: from raw material procurements, manufacturing, business processes, to distribution and marketing to consumers. The book concludes with some future growth projections; what are some of the shortcomings in sustainability in the cosmetics industry and what can we expect to see in the future?

Sustainability: How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up discusses business and technical issues in all areas of sustainable product development, from sourcing ingredients, to formulation, manufacture and packaging. Covering a diverse range of subjects, this book appeals to professionals in many key sectors of the cosmetics and personal care industry; cosmetic chemists, formulation scientists, R&D directors, policy makers, business and marketing executives. It is also of relevance to academic researchers working in cosmetic chemistry and sustainable process development.

1

Introduction to Sustainability

Amarjit Sahota

1.1 INTRODUCTION TO BOOK

The world we live in is changing. The global population has reached 7 billion and is projected to reach 9 billion by 2050. There is a general agreement that the planet's resources cannot cope with such a rise in human population, especially at existing consumption rates. Human activity has contributed to, or been responsible for, climate change, loss of biodiversity, destruction of habitat for many species and other such environmental damage. Human behaviour and consumption patterns need to change if the planet is to adequately feed another 2 billion mouths.

Consumerism is also changing. As consumers become more informed, they are demanding more from the products they buy. Rising education levels, the Internet and growing use of mobile devices are making consumers more informed than at any other time in history. They are questioning product origins, production methods and ecological implications, as well as safety issues. This rise in ethical consumerism is having a major impact on the cosmetics industry. Cosmetic and ingredient companies are increasingly scrutinised by retailers and NGOs looking to safeguard consumer interests.

It is against this backdrop that the idea of this book came about. With growing scarcity of resources and rising ethical consumerism, how can the cosmetics industry become more sustainable? What are the best practices in sustainable development? What areas are cosmetic companies focusing on, and what areas need to be improved? This book aims to address such questions. Written by the industry for the industry, it should be considered a practical guide for organisations looking to make a difference in terms of sustainability.

The first chapter serves to give an introduction to the book. A brief introduction is given to sustainability, specifically the relevance of environmental and social impacts. The proceeding chapters are written by industry professionals who share their expertise in specific areas of sustainability. The final chapter (future outlook) summarises some of the key findings from the book and gives future projections.

1.2 INTRODUCTION TO SUSTAINABILITY

Sustainability has many interpretations. A widely accepted definition is that of the Brundtland Commission of the United Nations which refers to sustainability in the concept of sustainable development: ‘meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs’ [1].

Sustainability has three pillars or dimensions, as depicted in Figure 1.1.

I. Environmental dimension – requires that natural capital remains intact. This means that the source and sink functions of the environment should not be degraded. Thus, the extraction of renewable resources should not exceed the rate at which they are renewed, and the absorptive capacity of the environment to assimilate wastes should not be exceeded. Furthermore, the extraction of non-renewable resources should be minimised and should not exceed agreed minimum strategic levels.

II. Social dimension – requires that the cohesion of society and its ability to work towards common goals be maintained. Individual needs, such as those for health and well-being, nutrition, shelter, education and cultural expression should be met.

III. Economic dimension – occurs when development, which moves towards social and environmental sustainability, is financially feasible.

Figure 1.1 The three pillars of sustainability.

Source: (Reproduced from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sustainable_development.svg, authored by Johann Dréo, inspired from image `Sustainable Development'.).

These three pillars are commonly referred to as the ‘triple bottom line’. They form the basis of many sustainability standards and certification systems that include the Rainforest Alliance, Fairtrade and UTZ Certified. Approaches to sustainability are discussed in the context of these three pillars throughout this book (see Section 1.6).

Although the understanding of sustainability has increased significantly in recent years, it remains an industry term. Consumers seldom use it and many are unsure over what it means. Research by the Hartman Group finds that although more than half of American consumers are familiar with the term ‘sustainability’, most cannot state what it means. The research polled 1606 American consumers to gain an understanding into consumer behaviour towards sustainability practices and products. Only 5% of consumers could name companies that support sustainability values, whereas 12% stated they knew where to buy such products [2].

1.3 ETHICS IN THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY

Ethics are considered very important to the cosmetics industry for it comes under closer scrutiny then other industries. Cosmetic products have traditionally been perceived as ‘vanity’ products; they can be considered non-essentials mainly bought by people to improve their appearance. The industry and its business practices are therefore much more scrutinised then other related industries, such as foods, pharmaceuticals, home cleaning products and so on.

The problem with this argument is that cosmetic products are not just mascara, lipsticks and foundations; they also refer to cleansing products required for basic hygiene, like shampoos, soaps, toothpaste and shower gels, as well as deodorants, shaving creams and and moisturisers. Also included are products with specific health purposes, for example anti-acne creams, anti-inflammatory lotions, anti-lice shampoos and healing creams. In this respect, cosmetic products do not serve just the vanity needs of consumers but also the basic needs of hygiene and cleanliness.

The cosmetics industry is often targeted by the media and NGOs because of the use of animal-testing methods. Cosmetic companies have historically tested ingredients, as well as finished products, on animals (typically rabbits and mice) to check safety levels. Although there is a move to phase out animal testing in the industry, it is likely to be many years (if not decades) before a global ban is introduced and then enforced. Israel introduced its ban in January 2013, the EU ban is scheduled for March 2013, whilst other countries have yet to introduce regulations to ban such methods.

The UK organisation, Cruelty-Free International, is spearheading a global campaign to end animal testing for cosmetic products and ingredients. Products can be certified that they are not tested on animals; such products meet the Humane Cosmetics standard and carry the Leaping Bunny logo. The animal rights group People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) is also campaigning to ban animal testing for cosmetic products. It has undertaken a number of advertisements using celebrities, such as ex-Pussy Doll pop singer Kimberly Wyatt (as shown in Figure 1.2).

Figure 1.2 Advertising campaign by PETA on animal testing for cosmetics.

Source: PETA: Image: © karlgrant.com.

Consumers place great emphasis on buying cosmetics with a conscience. A survey by the American online retailer Vitacost.com in October 2012 found that 75% of women prefer to purchase cosmetic products with a ‘cruelty-free’ logo over products without.

Since cosmetics are made up of chemicals, the industry is closely linked to the chemical industry. Indeed, many of the largest chemical companies in the world supply speciality chemicals to the cosmetics industry; such companies include BASF, Dow Chemical, Evonik, Rhodia and Eastman Chemical. Some of the unethical business practices of the chemical industry, like environmental pollution, also become associated with the cosmetics industry.

Cosmetic companies are also coming under the microscope for natural ingredient sourcing. The industry is one of the largest users of palm oil, a vegetable oil that is predominantly grown in Indonesia and Malaysia. Unethical sourcing of palm oil has been responsible for the destruction of tropical rainforests, threatening the habitat of endangered orang-utans. Unilever, one of the largest cosmetic companies in the world, was named as a buyer of unethical palm oil by Greenpeace in November 2009. The move led Unilever to drop its Indonesian supplier and make a commitment to only source sustainable palm oil certified by the Roundtable of Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO).

The environmental damage caused by cosmetic finished products is also coming under the spotlight. A number of studies have reported on the adverse effects of cosmetic ingredients on the environment. In August 2012, research by Arizona State University and federal authorities found Minnesota waterways to be contaminated by cosmetic ingredients. Anti-microbial ingredients like triclocarban and triclosan are present in soaps, disinfectants and sanitisers; they are getting into fresh waterways from waste treatment plants after entering sewers from consumer households. Apart from their endocrine-disrupting abilities, anti-microbial chemicals are toxic to aquatic bacteria. Tricolsan also prohibits photosynthesis in diatom algae, responsible for a large part of the photosynthesis on Earth.

Microplastics in formulations are also accumulating in the seas and oceans, disrupting marine ecosystems. Micro beads are used in soaps, scrubs and shower gels for exfoliating and texturising purposes. Since they are slow to biodegrade, they accumulate in water and are ingested by marine life and create damage.

Cosmetic packaging has a detrimental effect on the environment. Luxury skin care products and perfumes are typically housed in layers of packaging. The use of such excess packaging is often questioned, considering that resources are becoming scarce and they contribute to high product prices. A larger concern is the packaging impact on the environment. Plastics are the most widely used packaging material in the cosmetics industry; popular because of their flexibility and light weight; however, they create environmental pollution and do not biodegrade in landfills.

Basic hygiene personal care products create as much environmental pollution as other products. For instance, about 23 000 tonnes of toothbrushes end up in landfill in the USA each year, whilst about 2 billion disposable razors are thrown away. Cosmetic packaging also contributes to marine pollution. Plastic packaging in the sea has been linked to the injury and death of seagulls, fish and other marine life.

The safety of cosmetic ingredients is also the subject of much attention. Some studies suggest that phthalates – widely used as solvents in hair sprays, nail varnishes and perfumes – act as potential endocrine disruptors. Parabens, a family of chemical preservatives present in thousands of cosmetic products, are thought to mimic oestrogen and are linked to breast cancer. Other cosmetic chemicals that are linked to health conditions include aluminium salts, petrochemicals oils, triclosan, formaldehyde, mercury and other heavy metals. It is worth noting that many of these cosmetic chemicals may be associated with health risks, however scientific evidence is often lacking. Consumer perception is often stronger than reality when it comes to product safety.

A major issue about the safety of such chemicals is the variation in regulations between different regions and countries. For instance, the EU banned the use of phthalates in 2003, however it is still permitted in other regions. Some countries have lax enforcement of regulations, leading to potentially serious incidents. In December 2012, the interest group EcoWaste Coalition found that mercury-laden cosmetics were being sold in the Philippines. Although the national government had banned the sale of cosmetics with mercury because of health risks, many retailers were ignoring the ban.

In summary, the cosmetics industry gets more then its fair share of scrutiny because of the perceived nature of cosmetic products. Apart from the ethical issues surrounding animal testing, the industry is often criticised for its selection and use of raw materials, environmental impacts and safety issues of finished products.

1.4 DRIVERS OF SUSTAINABILITY

Whereas the previous section highlighted the reason why the cosmetics industry faces close scrutiny, this section states the factors pushing the sustainability agenda in the industry.

1.4.1 Rise in Ethical Consumerism

As stated in the introductory pages, consumers are increasingly asking ethical and environmental questions before purchasing products. The growing number of media reports on sustainability, provenance and the environment is raising consumer awareness of environmental and social issues. Consumers are realising that their purchasing decisions are having a direct impact on the environment and social communities. Furthermore, consumer demand for organic and natural foods is spilling over onto non-food products. They are looking for beauty products that are made ethically and contain natural and organic ingredients. The high growth in the na...