Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns

A Complete Lady's Wardrobe

Kristina Harris

• Publisher: Dover Publications
• Year: 2012
• eBook ISBN: 9780486132822
• Topic: Design
• Subtopic: Fashion Design

Imported custom-made clothes were usually beyond the financial reach of the average middle-class American woman of a century ago; and store-bought garments were often of inferior quality. This left many women with the options of making their own clothes or hiring a seamstress.
While a number of economy-minded women did sew simple housedresses, and clothing for their children, many took favorite fashion plates to a dressmaker who would often consult patterns in a magazine such as The Voice of Fashion. This book, compiled by costume authority Kristina Harris, painstakingly reprints a rich selection of scaled dressmakers' patterns of the 1890s, taken from rare issues of that popular, late-19th century dressmaker's journal. Featuring such fashion elements as leg-o'-mutton sleeves, high-collared necklines, long skirts, and pinched waistlines, the collection includes nearly 500 patterns and illustrations detailing 50 garments for women. Every wardrobe necessity for the Victorian lady is covered — from nightgowns and wrappers for boudoir and breakfast, a riding habit and tennis outfit, to walking dresses for town and visiting, elegant dinner dresses, and elaborate evening gowns.
An introduction and brief instruction for using the patterns are also included in a volume that will not only find practical use among costume designers and students of fashion history, but will also delight browsers, Victorian enthusiasts, and anyone intrigued by the evolution of clothing styles. 498 illustrations.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS

TO TAKE MEASURES. Great care should be taken in getting measures. (See illustration below.)

TAKE BUST MEASURE with the tape measure straight around the largest part of the bust, as shown below, high up under the arms; take a snug, close measure neither too tight nor too loose.

TAKE MEASURE AROUND THE WAIST as tight as the dress is to be worn.

TAKE LENGTH OF WAIST from the large joint where neck and body join, down to the waist. Care must be taken to get this measure.

SLEEVE MEASURE is taken from the center of back to wrist joint,with arm raised and elbow bent.

IN CUTTING a garment look carefully at the drafts being copied; use numbers and curves as shown in draft.

THE ARROWS are used for two purposes—one to show which way to turn the curve, the other the number of points to be connected with the curve.

THE CURVE should always be turned with the largest part in the direction in which the arrow points.

When the arrow is placed between two lines it shows that only two points are to be connected.

When the arrow is placed upon a cross line it shows that three points must be connected with the curve, that the point by the arrow is the middle one, and the points nearest on each side must be connected with the curve at the same time with larger part of the curve turned in the direction the arrow points.

The letter A in corner of draft is the starting point in making draft.

TAKING MEASUREMENTS.

DIRECTIONS FOR BASTING.

FIRST:—Smooth, even tracing is very necessary. Place the pattern smooth on lining crosswise. Trace each line carefully. Cut out the lining same as pattern. Place the lining straight on the goods, the nap, if any, running down. Pin the lining at the waist line. Full the lining (from ¼ to ½ inch) each side of the waist line, from 1 ½ inches below the waist line to 2½ inches above, the greatest fullness coming at the waist line; this shortens the lining, but when boned it will be stretched to place. Leave the lining easy each way, from top of darts to shoulders, and one-fourth of an inch full at center of shoulder line. Never backstitch in basting or draw the thread tight.

In joining the different parts together, care must be taken, as smooth, even basting is necessary. Pass the needle exactly through the traced seam lines on both sides of the seam, as many garments are ruined by careless basting.

In joining the back and side-back, hold the side-back to you, thus you will baste one up and the other down. It is a good idea to pin these pieces before basting. If the shoulder blades are prominent, hold the back piece a little full where the shoulder blades strike to within 1½ inches of arms-eye. In basting the shoulders, hold the back to you. Baste evenly for one inch, then stretch the front shoulder to match the back, for the back is always cut longer.

MISSES’ WRAPPER. Summer 1893

Use the scale corresponding with the Bust measure to draft the entire garment, which consists of upper and under Fronts, upper and under Backs, side-back and three sleeve portions. This wrapper is suitable for a Miss or a Lady. Cut the upper portions out at the neck. (See diagrams.) Gather and sew to the under front and back. If desirable the Front may be shirred at the Waist line, same as the Back. Gather the upper Sleeve and sew to the lining.

Regulate the length of the Skirt by the tape-measure.

LADIES’ TEA GOWN. Spring 1893

Use scale corresponding with the Bust measure to draft the entire garment, which consists of three front portions, Back and Side-back, Sleeve and Cuff.

The shirring is made of lace or soft silk. Join the different portions as indicated on the cuts. Any style of trimming may be used.

Regulate the length by the tape-measure.

LADIES’ DRAWERS. Fall 1890

LADIES’ DRAWERS.

Use the scale corresponding with the waist measure.

Draft the same as any other garment.

Make the band the length and width desired.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

LADIES’ DRAWERS. Spring 1893

Use the scale corresponding with the Waist measure to draft the entire garment, which consists of one-half of the drawers and band.

Make allowance for tucks. Regulate by the tape measure.

LADIES’ DRAWERS. Spring 1895

Select the scale corresponding with the waist measure.

It is in two pieces: One-half of the drawers and one-halt of the band. These can be closed or left open.

Gather the extra fullness at the top and sew to the band.

Make all allowances for tucks.

Regulate the length by the tape line.

LADIES’ STREET COSTUME. Fall 1890

LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure to draft the entire Polonaise, which consists of 8 pieces—Up...

Table of contents

• Title Page
• Copyright Page
• Table of Contents
• INTRODUCTION
• GENERAL DIRECTIONS
• DOVER BOOKS ON FASHION