Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from `La Mode Illustrée`

JoAnne Olian

• Publisher: Dover Publications
• Year: 2012
• ISBN:
  9780486132747
• Topic: Design
• Subtopic: Fashion Design

Over 1,000 illustrations, meticulously reproduced from rare issues of renowned fashion magazine, present a striking array of women’s fashions from 1860 to 1914: elegant evening and dinner gowns, stylish daywear, wedding ensembles, bathing costumes, mourning clothes, cycling outfits and much more; plus detailed renderings of shoes, hats, parasols, and other accessories.

Glossary

Aigrette: Upright tuft of feathers; something resembling a feather aigrette.

Alpaca: Shiny plain-weave fabric with silk or cotton warp and alpaca filling.

Armure: Fabric with a pebbly surface, sometimes with a repeat design or small motifs.

Astrakhan: Pile-weave fabric imitating Persian lamb or broadtail fur.

Basque: Small peplum.

Basquine: Woman’s coat or jacket.

Batavia: Lightweight, twill-weave silk fabric.

Batiste: High-quality, soft, lightweight cotton fabric.

Bavolet: Flounce falling from the rear of a bonnet concealing the back of the neck.

Bayadère: Crosswise multicolored stripes; fabric with such stripes.

Bengaline: Heavy ribbed silk with a corded effect.

Bertha: Piece of fabric bordering the neckline of a bodice, or a collar placed on a wide neckline, usually of equal width all around.

Blonde: Silk lace that may be either white or black.

Boa: Long round scarf, often of fur or feathers.

Bolero: Waist or rib-length jacket, with or without sleeves.

Bottine: Short boot.

Bouillonné: Shirred band of fabric.

Bretelles: Shoulder straps attached to a waistband, either decorative or actually supporting a skirt.

Brocade: Fabric with a satin-weave design on a plain-, satin-, or rib-weave background.

Broderie anglaise: Eyelet embroidery.

Burnous: Sleeveless evening wrap with a hood.

Cabochon: Stone cut in a round convex shape without facets.

Casaque: Three-quarter length, loose-fitting outer garment, often open-sided and with slit sleeves, sometimes trimmed with braid.

Cashmere: Fine, soft dress fabric made from the wool of Kashmir goats.

Chamois: Soft, pliable leather.

Changeable moiré: Fabric with warp of one color and woof of another, giving different effect in different lights.

Chantilly lace: Type of bobbin lace.

Charmeuse: Lightweight, lustrous dress fabric of cotton or silk.

Chemise: A loose gown, falling straight down from shoulders to hem.

Chemisette: A sleeveless vestee or dickey made of fine cotton, lace, or net, used primarily to fill low necklines.

Chenille: Fabric made of a silk, cotton, or wool yarn with pile protruding all around.

Cheviot: Close-napped, rough-surfaced, twill-weave wool fabric used for suits and coats.

Chicoree: Manner of cutting fabric with a pinked edge, similar to a chicory leaf, and leaving it unhemmed; also a ruche formed from strips of fabric cut in this fashion.

Chignon: Twist of hair forming a bun, worn at the back of the head.

Chinchilla: Blue-gray fur.

Cloche: Hat with bell-shaped crown.

Coiffure: Hair style or headdress.

Collarette: Small collar, especially of lace, fur, beads, etc.

Combinations: Chemise-pantaloons or petticoat-pantaloons.

Combing jacket or sacque: Loose jacket worn over lingerie while making toilette.

Confection: Ready-to-wear garment, usually referring to outerwear.

Corselet: Lightly boned corset.

Coutil: A sturdy, twill-woven cotton, used for corsets.

Covert-cloth: Durable, medium-weight, twill-weave fabric, having a finely speckled appearance; used for suits, coats, and riding habits.

Crepe: Fabric with a grained or crinkled surface; can be made of silk, cotton, wool, etc.

Crepe de chine: Fine silk crepe.

Crepe-chiffon: Sheer silk crepe.

Crepeline: Sheer, lustrous or semi-lustrous, wool, silk, or cotton dress fabric with a crepe effect.

Crepon: Heavy crepe fabric.

Dagged: Cut into points, leaves, or scallops along the edge.

Damask: Reversible fabric, woven in floral or geometric patterns.

Décolletage: Neckline.

Demi-boot: Ankle boot.

Dentelé: Notched or scalloped.

Diadem: Headpiece resembling a crown.

Duster: Lightweight coat worn to protect clothing.

Duvetyn: Soft, twill-weave wool with a nap.

En échelle: Applied decoration, often of ribbons, simulating ladder of ribbon on a stomacher.

Epaulettes: Shoulder ornaments.

Ermine: White fur with black-tipped tails.

Etamine: Lightweight, loosely woven pla...