The History of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, Vol. 1

Lewis & Clark, Elliott Coues

• Publisher: Dover Publications
• Year: 2012
• eBook ISBN: 9780486120539
• Topic: History
• Subtopic: North American History
• Index: History

From May 1804 to September 1806, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark undertook one of the great adventures of modern man. Their government-sponsored exploration of the wilderness between the Mississippi River and the Pacific covered, in total miles, a distance equal to one-third the circumference of the earth and took its participants through what is now mapped as Missouri, Kansas, Iowa, Nebraska, Washington State, South Dakota, Montana, Idaho, and Oregon. It was an epoch-making expedition through one of the most magnificent geographical areas of the world.
The story of the Lewis and Clark Expedition is America’s national epic. Both men proved themselves not only intrepid pioneers but also acute observers and top-flight journalists. Their day-to-day journal filled thousands of pages with the most complete and authentic record of any exploring venture in history. But the world had to wait years for the story. In 1814, the only authorized history of the expedition, a personal narrative pieced together by Nicholas Biddle from the journal manuscript, finally appeared. While undeniably exciting, that publication left a lot to be desired. Only with the appearance, in 1893, of the four-volume Elliott Coues edition was the story told in such a way as to be both a thrilling narrative and a valuable document for students of Americana, historians, and all others interested in this vital chapter in the opening up of the American West.
Now that four-volume set is reprinted in its entirety in a three-volume edition. Here is the whole story as summarized by Biddle: encounters with dozens of Indian tribes; descriptions of their political and social organization, dress, living habits, and ways; personal anecdotes of courage and stamina; vivid descriptions of staggering natural wonders that no white man had ever seen. Here, too, is all the material that Coues added: chapter synopses; critical footnotes that clarify hundreds of obscure references, add important biological data, provide modern locations of camp and exploration sites, bring into account additional material from the manuscript journal, and correct countless errors; a bibliographical introduction; brief Memoirs of Clark and the expedition’s sergeant, Patrick Gass; a modern map to supplement Lewis and Clark’s originals; and a much-needed index.
Intended not only to further knowledge of North American geography but also to see the extension of American commerce, the Lewis and Clark Expedition marked the beginning of major growth in the United States. Partly because of this and partly because of its inherent excitement, this firsthand account should be read by every student of American history as well as by all who enjoy the adventure of exploration.

CHAPTER I.

UP THE MISSOURI TO THE PLATTE.

Preliminaries—The Expedition leaves Wood river-Cold-water creek—Piper’s landing—La harbonnière—Town of St. Charles—Bon Homme river—Osage Woman river—Tavern cave—Devil’s Race-ground—La Charrette—Buffalo, Shepherd, and Ash creeks—Gasconade river—Deer creek—Rush creek—Big and Little Muddy rivers—Osage river —Osage Indian traditions—Cupboard, Moreau, Cedar, Nightingale, Lead, Little Good Woman, Little Manitou, and Split Rock creeks—Saline river—Big Manitou river—Good Woman river—Mine river—Arrow rock, prairie, and creek—Blackbird and Deer creeks —The two Charitons—Des Moines river—Chicot or Stump island—Plum creek—Engagement of Mr. Durion—Round Bend creek—The Missouris—Grand river—Snake bluffs and creek—Panther island—Tiger and Tabo creeks—Sauk prairie—L‘Eau Beau or Clear-water creek—Fire-prairie creek—Fort Point—Hay-cabin, Chariton scarty, La Charbonnière, La Bénite and Blue-water creeks—The Kansas river and Indians—Little Shallow river—Diamond island—Biscuit creek—Isles des Parcs—Park creek—Turkey creek—Bear-medicine and Cow islands—Gosling lake—Fourth of July, Independence, and Yellow-ochre creeks—Reevey’s and St. Michael’s prairies—Ordway’s creek—Little and Great Nadowa islands—Pike pond—Monter’s creek—Loup or Wolf river—Pape’s creek—Solomon’s island—Tarkio creek—Nemaha river—Big Tarkio river—Nishnabatona river—Little Nemaha river—Fair Sun and Bald islands—Bald-pated prairie—Oven islands—Terrien’s oven—L’Eau qui Pleure, or Weeping-water-The Expedition reaches the Platte river, and camps ten miles beyond its mouth.

ON the acquisition of Louisiana, in the year 1803 [April 30th], the attention of the Government of the United States was earnestly directed toward exploring and improving the new territory. Accordingly, in the summer of the same year, an expedition was planned by the President [Jefferson] for the purpose of discovering the courses and sources of the Missouri, and the most convenient water communication thence to the Pacific ocean. His private secretary, Captain Meriwether Lewis, and Captain William Clark, both officers of the Army of the United States, were associated in the command of this enterprise. After receiving the requisite instructions, Captain Lewis left the seat of government [July 5th, 1803], and being joined by Captain Clark at Louisville, in Kentucky, proceeded to St. Louis,‘⁵⁴ where they arrived in the month of December. Their original intention was to pass the winter at La Charrette (p. 2), the highest settlement on the Missouri. But the Spanish commandant of the province, not having received an official account of its transfer to the United States, was obliged by the general policy of his government to prevent strangers from passing through the Spanish territory. They therefore camped at the mouth of Wood [Du Bois] river, on the eastern side of the Mississippi, out of his jurisdiction, where they passed the winter in disciplining the men, and making the necessary preparations for setting out early in the spring, before which the cession was officially announced.⁵⁵

The party consisted of [the two officers] ; nine young men from Kentucky; 14 soldiers of the United States Army, who had volunteered their services; two French watermen [Cruzatte, Labiche] ; an interpreter and hunter [Drewyer] ; and a black servant [York] belonging to Captain Clark. All these, except the last, were enlisted to serve as privates during the expedition, and three sergeants [Floyd, Ordway, Pryor, were] appointed from among them by the captains. In addition to these were engaged a corporal and six soldiers, and nine watermen, to accompany the expedition as far as the Mandan nation, in order to assist in carrying the stores, or in repelling an attack, which was most to be apprehended between Wood river and that tribe.⁵⁶ The necessary stores were subdivided into seven bales, and one box containing a small portion of each article in case of accident. They consisted of a great variety of clothing, working utensils, locks, flints, powder, ball, and articles of the greatest use. To these were added 14 bales and one box of Indian presents, distributed in the same manner, and composed of richly laced coats and other articles of dress, medals, flags, knives, and tomahawks for the chiefs, with ornaments of different kinds, particularly beads, looking-glasses, handkerchiefs, paints, and generally such articles as were deemed best calculated for the taste of the Indians. The party was to embark on board of three boats : the first was a keel-boat 55 feet long, drawing three feet of water, carrying one large square-sail and 22 oars. A deck of ten feet in the bow and stern formed a fore- (p. 3) castle and cabin, while the middle was covered by lockers, which might be raised so as to form a breastwork in case of attack. This was accompanied by two perioques⁵⁷ or open boats, one of six and the other of seven oars. Two horses were at the same time to be led along the banks of the river for the purpose of bringing home game, or hunting in case of scarcity.

Of the proceedings of this expedition, the following is a succinct and circumstantial narrative.⁵⁸

All the preparations being completed, we left our camp on Monday, May 14th, 1804.⁵⁹ This spot is at the mouth of Wood [Du Bois] river, a small stream which empties into the Mississippi [on the east side], opposite the entrance of the Missouri. It is situated in latitude 38° 55’ 19.6” north, and longitude from Greenwich 89° 57’ 45” west. On both sides of the Mississippi the land for two or three miles is rich and level, but gradually swells into a high pleasant country, with less timber on the western than on the eastern side, but all susceptible of cultivation. The point which separates the two rivers on the north extends for 15 or 20 miles, the greater part of which is an open level plain, in which the people of the neighborhood cultivate what little grain they raise. Not being able to set sail before 4 p. m., we did not make more than four miles, and camped on the first island, opposite a small creek called Cold-water.⁶⁰

May 15th. The rain, which had continued yesterday and last night, ceased this morning. We then proceeded, and after passing two small islands about ten miles further, stopped for the night at Piper’s landing, opposite another island. The water is here very rapid, and the banks are falling in. We found that our boat was too heavily laden in the stern, in consequence of which she ran on logs three times to-day. It became necessary to throw the greatest weight on the bow of the boat, a precaution very necessary in ascending (p. 4) both the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, in the beds of which lie great quantities of concealed timber.

The next morning [May 16th] we set sail at five o’clock. At the distance of a few miles, we passed a remarkable large coal hill on the north side, called by the French La Charbonnière, ⁶¹ and arrived at the town of St. Charles [at 2 p. m.]. Here we remained a few days.

St. Charles⁶² is a small town on the north bank of the Missouri, about 21 miles from its confluence with the Mississippi. It is situated in a narrow plain, sufficiently high to protect it from the annual rising of the river in June, and at the foot of a range of small hills, which have occasioned its being called Petite Côte,⁶³ a name by which it is more known to the French than by that of St. Charles. One principal street, about a mile in length and running parallel with the river, divides the town, which is composed of nearly 100 small wooden houses, besides a chapel. The inhabitants, about 450 in number, are chiefly descendants from the French of Canada. In their manners they unite all the careless gayety and amiable hospitality of the best times of France. Yet, like most of their countrymen in America, they are but ill qualified for the rude life of the frontier—not that they are without talent, for they possess much natural genius and vivacity; not that they are destitute of enterprise, for their hunting excursions are long, laborious, and hazardous; but their exertions are all desultory; their industry is without system and without perseverance. The surrounding country, therefore, though rich, is not generally well cultivated; the inhabitants chiefly subsist by hunting and trade with the Indians, and confine their culture to gardening, in which they excel.

Mary 21st. Being joined by Captain Lewis who had been detained by business at St. Louis, we set sail on Monday, May 21st, in the afternoon [4 p. m.], but were prevented by wind and rain from going more than about three miles, when we camp- (p. 5) ed on the upper point of an island, nearly opposite a creek which falls in on the south side.

May 22d. We made about 18 miles, passing several small farms on the bank of the river, a number of islands, and a large creek on the south side, called Bon Homme, or Good Man’s river.⁶⁴ A small number of emigrants from the United States have settled on the banks of this creek, which are very fertile. We also passed some high lands, and camped on the north side, near a small creek. Here we met with a camp of Kickapoo⁶⁵ Indians, who had left us at St. Charles with a promise of procuring us some provisions by the time we overtook them. They made us a present of four deer, and we gave them in return two quarts of whisky. This tribe reside on the heads of the Kaskaskia and Illinois rivers, on the other side of the Mississippi, but occasionally hunt on the Missouri.

May 23d. Two miles from our camp of last night we reached a river emptying itself on the north side, called [Femme Osage or] Osage Woman river.⁶⁶ It is about 30 yards wide, and has a settlement of 30 or 40 families from the United States. About a mile and a half beyond this is a large cave on the south side, at the foot of cliffs nearly 300 feet high, overhanging the water, which becomes very swift at this place. The cave is 120 feet wide, 40 feet deep, and 20 high; it is known by the name of the Tavern⁶⁷ among the traders, who have written their names on the rock and painted some images which command the homage of the Indians and French. About a mile further we passed a small creek called Tavern creek, and camped on the south side of the river, having gone nine miles.

May 24th. Early this morning we ascended a very difficult rapid, called the Devil’s Race-ground, where the current sets for half a mile against some projecting rocks on the south side. We were less fortunate in attempting a second rapid of equal difficulty. Passing near the southern shore, the (p. 6) bank fell in so fast as to oblige us to cross the river instantly, between the northern side and a sand-bar which is constantly moving and banking with the violence of the current. The boat struck on it, and would have upset immediately if the men had not jumped into the water and held her till the sand washed from under her. We camped on the south side, having ascended ten miles.

May25th. Passed on the south side the mouth of Wood⁶⁸ river, on the north two small creeks and several islands, and stopped for the night at the entrance of a creek on the north side, called by the French La Charrette,⁶⁹ ten miles from our last camp, and a little above a small village of the same name. It consists of seven small houses, and as many poor families, who have fixed themselves here for the convenience of trade. They form the last establishment of whites on the Missouri. It rained last night, yet we found this morning that the river had fallen several inches.

May 26th.—The wind being favorable, we made 18 miles to-day. We passed in the morning several islands, the largest of which is Buffalo island, separated from the southern side by a small channel which receives the waters of Buffalo creek. On the same side is Shepherd’s creek, a little beyond which we camped on the northern side.

May 27th.—We sailed along a large island called Otter island, on the northern side. This is nearly ten miles in length, narrow but high in its situation, and one of the most fertile in the whole river. Between it and the northern shore, three small creeks, one of which has the same name [Otter⁷⁰] with the island, empty. On the southern shore is a creek 20 yards wide, called Ash creek. In the course of the day we met two canoes loaded with furs, which had been two months on their route from the Mahar [Omaha] nation, residing more than 700 miles up the river, one large raft from the Pawnees on the Platte river, and three others from the Grand Osage river. At (p. 7) the distance of 15 miles we camped on a willow-island, at the entrance of Gasconade river.⁷¹ This river falls into the Missouri from the south, 100 miles from the Mississippi. Its length is about 150 miles, in a course generally northeast, through a hilly country. On its banks are a number of saltpetre caves, and it is believed some mines of lead are in the vicinity. Its width at the mouth is 157 yards, and its depth 19 feet.

May 28th.—Here we halted for the purpose of hunting, drying our provisions, and making the necessary celestial observations.

May 29th.—We set sail at four o’clock [p. m.]⁷² and at four miles distant camped on the south side, above a small creek, called Deer creek.

May 30th.—We set out early, and at two miles distant rea...

Table of contents

• DOVER BOOKS ON TRAVEL, ADVENTURE
• Title Page
• Copyright Page
• Dedication
• PREFACE TO THE NEW EDITION.
• Table of Contents
• LIST OF MAPS AND OTHER PLATES.
• PREFACE TO THE ORIGINAL EDITION.
• MEMOIR OF MERIWETHER LEWIS.
• SUPPLEMENT TO JEFFERSON’S MEMOIR OF MERIWETHER LEWIS.
• MEMOIR OF WILLIAM CLARK.
• MEMOIR OF PATRICK GASS.
• BIBLIOGRAPHICAL INTRODUCTION.
• CHAPTER I. - UP THE MISSOURI TO THE PLATTE.
• CHAPTER II. - THE MISSOURI FROM THE PLATTE TO VERMILION RIVER.
• CHAPTER III. - THE MISSOURI FROM VERMILION TO TETON RIVER.
• CHAPTER IV. - THE MISSOURI FROM TETON RIVER TO THE MANDANS.
• CHAPTER V. - WINTERING WITH THE MANDANS.
• CHAPTER VI. - WITH THE MANDANS: CONTINUED.
• CHAPTER VII. - THE MISSOURI FROM FORT MANDAN TO THE YELLOWSTONE.
• CHAPTER VIII. - THE MISSOURI FROM THE YELLOWSTONE TO THE MUSSELSHELL .
• CHAPTER IX. - THE MISSOURI FROM THE MUSSELSHELL TO MARIA’S RIVER.
• A CATALOG OF SELECTED DOVER BOOKS IN ALL FIELDS OF INTEREST