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Elemental Ecologies
Arts and Crafts Women and Early Green Thought
The tales of Mary De Morgan are a prime example of the intersection between New Woman literature and the transformative early green culture of the Arts and Crafts movement. Easily fitting the image of the New Woman herself, De Morgan was a member of the Womenâs Suffrage League, an author, a journalist, an embroiderer, a typist, a secretary, an East End volunteer, and a prison reformer.1 Through her skill at storytelling and embroidery, she lived and worked at the heart of the Arts and Crafts movement, becoming close to the Morris and Burne-Jones families. One of her four collections of fairy tales is dedicated to the grandchildren of the latter, and each collection is lavishly illustrated by central figures within the movement: her brother, William De Morgan, Walter Crane, and Olive Cockerell. Like the fairy-tale collections of Charles Dickens and Oscar Wilde, the four collections were published as Christmas gift books and were once considered by reviewers to be among the most âoriginalâ and âmost elegant giftbooksâ they had ever seen.2 Welcomed as âreal treasure[s]â or âgem[s]â in journals like Punch, De Morganâs tales are now beginning to be recognized as innovative narratives that utilize the strategies of the New Woman writer to critique both the subjection of women under Victorian marriage laws and industrialized capitalism.3 Hybrid objects of both New Woman and Arts and Crafts culture, De Morganâs books combine the formerâs performative narratives and visual strategies, her avowed feminist politics, and the deliberate archaisms and early green sentiments of Arts and Crafts. The mixture brings a number of vital bodies into view in unexpected ways, resulting in âbeautiful and wicked princess[es],â terrifying enchanted rosebushes, and elemental dancers constructed of wind and rain.4 Such beings strike a keynote for New Woman ecologies. They disrupt the Victorian ecological paradigm of the garden queen in the flower garden and create a strategic alliance between the mobile image of the New Woman and a vibrant elemental ecology.
De Morganâs affinity for the elements greens the anarchic mobility of the New Woman and genders the early green ideology of Arts and Crafts. In tales such as âThe Windfairies,â âThe Toy Princess,â and âThe Rain Maiden,â De Morgan naturalizes womenâs bodily autonomy and artistic integrity while she critiques the joint commodification of women on the marriage market and industrialist-capitalist projects such as mass production and mechanism. Alternatively, in tales like âHanda and Siegfriedâ she models cooperative labor and artisanship in the tradition of the early greens, such as her close associate William Morris and his colleague the anarcho-communist alternative agriculturalist Peter Kropotkin, about whom she wrote in the articles âCo-operation in Englandâ (1890) and âThe New Trades-Unionism and Socialism in Englandâ (1891). There she considers anarchist communes as alternatives to commodity culture and lauds the ideal of people âshar[ing] the result of their labor.â5 The latter ideal, she writes, although difficult to achieve in practice, âgains dignity by having for its leader Prince Peter Kropotkin.â6 He âmust in every way command respect . . . in his private and public character, as a scientific man.â7 De Morganâs praise references Kropotkinâs reenvisioning of Darwinâs political and ecological legacy. While many had naturalized capitalism via Darwinâs emphasis on competition and struggle in The Origin of the Species, Kropotkin would ultimately naturalize communism through Darwinâs equally compelling vision of mutualism. The latter became an important component of late Victorian and early twentieth-century thought, evident in New Life utopian experiments in communal living.8 De Morgan too seems intrigued by the idea of mutualism, cooperation across and between ontological categories. But her interest in the transformative culture of the early greens is made her own in her imaginative tales. In these fictions, her critique of competition and industrialization is matched by the power of more-than-human things, especially as they aid creativity in the tradition of Arts and Crafts.
As the classical and early modern elements of earth, wind, fire, and water are the âanimated materialities with and through which life thrives,â they became the very stuff of that movementâs deliberately archaic techniques.9 Pots and tiles were âfired,â paints were composed of precious metals from the earth, air was crucial to a just working environment, and artisans hammered iron into useful and beautiful things. De Morgan the writer works in that tradition too, exploring the rich materiality of the elements. Animating the air through the characters of âThe Windfairies,â or water through the figure of âThe Rain Maiden,â De Morgan establishes an intimacy and interdependence between human and more-than-human things that fosters mutual respect rather than an anthropocentric ethic of stewardship. Her early critique of plant collection, âThe Pool and the Tree,â for example, creates water as a willful, desirous, and mobile thing, while the human plant collectors and gardeners in the tale are characterized as thieves and fools. De Morgan then constructs horizontal relationships in which humans, rain, wind, and clouds come into being through each other. Interdependence and cooperation, or what Peter Kropotkin described as âmutual aid,â among living things rather than competition is the theme of these tales.10 Dancers in âThe Windfairiesâ and âThe Rain Maidenâ form strategic alliances with the elements in De Morganâs ecology, naturalizing the New Woman themes of mobility, sexual and artistic integrity, and vocation itself. They come to recognize, in the process, the sometimes volatile generative powers and exuberance of the elements in narratives that stand quite apart from the more familiar Victorian fairy-tale fare. Ultimately De Morgan explores the intrinsic value of living thingsâwomen, plants, rain, clouds, and windâresisting their commodification on the market or their instrumentalization in industry. This insight follows her analysis of a less appealing feature of Arts and Crafts culture: its near-obsession with the gendered ecological paradigm of the garden.11 De Morgan begins a powerful critique of this paradigm early on with the dark tale âThe Seeds of Love,â a thorough and damning critique of what Amy King terms the âbotanical vernacularâ in which âblooming and marriageability coalesce.â12 This narrative is endemic to the realist novel, the visual culture of Arts and Crafts, and mainstream Victorian culture itself. The fairy-tale form, then, allows a less âdecorousâ treatment of that discourse, exposing its hidden violence and objectification of women.13
Damned to Garden: âThe Seeds of Loveâ
In âThe Seeds of Love,â from her second collection On a Pincushion and Other Tales, De Morgan critiques the appeal of the garden and the familiar, domesticating discourse of the garden queen.14 She knew these discourses in her very hands as an embroiderer. In that craft as well as in the artwork of Arts and Crafts, the garden epitomized the movementâs concept of a green utopia often problematically inhabited by an objectified woman. The latter intersection is clear in the consistent objectification of De Morganâs friend Jane Morris in floral paintings like The Day Dream (1880). As Jan Marsh aptly notes, this painting is not a portrait; rather, Morrisâs very identity is subsumed in the work âinto the spirit of Nature.â15 Through his considerable skill with composition, brush strokes, and color, Dante Gabriel Rossetti successfully blends the human woman with the goddess Flora and conflates both with the tree, the flower she holds, and the season. The ephemeral quality of each is accented by the glow of the red-tongued honeysuckle bloom at the center of the painting that seems to express Morrisâs âbloomâ or her perceived sexual availability itself.16
Arts and Crafts women artists themselves were constantly subjected to such visual iconography, which mirrored the ârapprochement between women and flowersâ that was rampant in Victorian mainstream culture as well as in bohemian schools.17 In the static portrayals of women in pre-Raphaelite paintings, their mobility is sharply curtailed, reduced to a pose. This is clear in the work of Dante Gabriel Rossetti, William Morris, Frederic Leighton, Edward Burne-Jones, and others. Certainly, this conflation of women and plants or flowers is visible in the embroideries to which De Morgan contributed her labor, executing designs by both Morris and Burne-Jones. In such textiles, images of women harvesting mirror their own fecundity rather than explore their productivity. A famous tapestry of Pomona, for example, shows her holding apples in her lap rather than picking them. This visual culture suggests the extent to which the school of Arts and Crafts accommodated quite standard Victorian gender norms, such as the conventional idea that âthe ideal woman is one who is close to nature, practicing her role in life by working with flowersâ or fruit.18
Edenic scenes featuring women at this kind of work signal the triumph of the Morrissian postrevolutionary utopian society in which work becomes a pleasure. But this achievement is often signified in visual or literary terms that make womenâs reproductive role a given. This has the effect Patricia Murphy identifies in the Victorian period as âtrapping the female in time,â always slightly behind the evolution of men.19 In texts and tapestries, womenâs time is also undoubtedly heteronormative or straight time; women are represented awaiting what Morris imagines as the ecstatic arrival of âreal marriage,â in which women are finally âfreeâ to select a heteronormative partner regardless of financial status and without the tyranny of the periodâs marriage laws which deprive women of agency.20 In this new utopia, figures of Pomona or Flora, the goddesses of harvest and spring, offer themselves to the viewer, seeming to speak for all women: âI am the ancient apple queen, as once I was so am I nowâ; âI am the handmaid of the earth.â21 Such representations of women, as in Tess of the dâUrbervilles, âperpetuate the notion of an unchanging female essence across the ages and negate the possibility of substantive improvement in womenâs status.â22 Martin Delvaux notes that Morris âdeveloped Marxâs anti-capitalist critique, linking it to questions of gender and transferring it to an environmental level.â23 However, Jan Marsh notes that âheterosexuality rulesâ24 in Morrisâs utopian garden states and that his stipulation that an authentic marriage is a matter of simple âinclinationâ between men and women reveals that he can imagine no other alternative sexualities or life partnerships.25 The very basis of Morrisâs early green vision of the future as expressed in âThe Dawn of a New Epochâ (1886) is of the nation itself as a gendered garden. In News from Nowhere, a transformed London is ârunning over with flowersâ and populated by âyoung girlsâ offering Roger and Richard Hammond fruit and blossoms.26 The women who worked for Morris and Co. would have met this reproductive and heteronormative floral discourse as it manifested itself in the Morris house designs that they executed.
Indeed, as embroiderers, De Morgan and May and Jane Morris, were, in a sense, expert gardeners.27 Skilled in the floral vocabulary of Morrisâs designs, the three women worked together on the intricate hangings for Morrisâs bed at Kelmscott Manor, interweaving native English meadow flowers on the bedâs coverlet and a trellis of roses and birds on the curtains, with the text of Morrisâs poetry crowning the top as a border and a ribbon of blue, representing the Thames River, coursing around the bottom of the coverlet.28 The skill of their embroidery is unquestionable; however, it was unsigned and often, although not always, executed menâs designs. As Anthea Callen has written, a âlack of any unselfconscious integration of men and womenâ emanated from the heart of the Arts and Crafts movement outward to all its levels, compromising its radical aims and becoming âreactionary in its reinforcement of the traditional patriarchal structure which dominated contemporary society.â29 Although the movement believed that self-expression through the making of art and craft was a basic human right, womenâs positions in the movement were often subordinate to those of men. The progressive ideology of even Morrisâs futurist vision of the nation as a garden state cannot overcome the gendered mythologies of that space. De Morgan was well known to have argued about socialism with William Morris. Although details of these debates are elusive,30 in her published writing, she clearly critiques the sexism of âEnglish socialists,â pointing out that âmany of their leaders assum[e] womenâs p...