1
American Boys
ROB
Donât Forget Where You Come From
You can barely hear yourself inside a Chinook helicopter when the cargo door is open. A CH-47 is a beast; itâs a flying school bus. Itâs about as comfortable, too. With the cargo door closed and the ramp up, itâs quieter inside, the roar of the rotors muted to where it becomes possible to focus, to think, to have a quiet conversation, or maybe just sleep.
We used CH-47s for nighttime missions in Iraq and Afghanistan. As we flew toward the sites where we would land and hike to our targets, I would sit and go over the mission in my head. Think about who I was going to kill that night. Shut out the background noise.
On a flight in 2010 where I was jumpmaster, the door was open and I couldnât hear myself think over the thunder of the rotors. The wind howled in my ears as I knelt on the ramp, holding on to one of the hydraulic jacks and looking forward for our drop zone ten thousand feet below. Below me, it wasnât razor-sharp peaks of the Hindu Kush mountains or the noisy sprawl of Jalalabadâs streets and bazaars. Instead, I saw the richest hill on earth: Butte, Montana, my hometown.
As the Chinook thundered north, I could see hills dotted with sagebrush, and stands of ponderosa pines reaching up into Highland Mountains. I spotted my high school and then the campus of Montana Tech and the boxy HPER Complex, where I once shot 105 free throws in a row and learned to swim to become a Navy SEAL.
I looked closely at the familiar grid of streets and saw my fatherâs ranch house on Bittersweet Drive and my motherâs bungalow near East Middle School to the north. The wide mouth of the Berkeley Pit and the turquoise tailing pond came into view before we banked right across the East Ridge and over Saddle Rock, where the towering white statue of the Lady of the Rockies looked down over the city.
Then the Chinook slowed as we completed the wide circuit around the city and approached the airport. A dozen guys waited behind me, ready for the signal to hurdle themselves off the ramp into the sky over Butte. Somewhere two miles below, my mother and father waited, looking for our chutes. The pilot had turned on the green go light. I held up my finger in the air to show one minute to jump, then my thumb and index finger for thirty seconds. When it was time, I punched the outside of my thigh like you would in a game of âRock, Paper, Scissorsâ then extended a âthumbs up.â Stand by. Then I held my hand straight out from my chest, pointing out the door: the go signal. One by one, my guys launched off the ramp, tumbling toward the ground before stabilizing at terminal velocity.
And then it was my turn.
* * *
EVERYONEâS FROM SOMEWHERE, and my somewhere is Butte. It calls itself a city, but to me, itâs a town. A tough-guy, mining town, I guess. The miners who helped build Butte in the late 1800s were born hard, had hard lives, and when they werenât underground digging for coal, they drank and fought, which made life hard for everyone around them, too.
Mine shafts go everywhere around and under Butte. Marriott built a hotel there recently. Iâm betting they did underground site surveys so that it didnât collapse into a hole. There was a brothel in town called the Dumas Brothel, which had a tunnel that went right down in a mine shaft, so that the miners could conveniently come up and visit the ladies on their lunch breaks. Crazy stuff.
Butte used to be a boomtown of a hundred thousand people, the biggest city between St. Louis in the east and San Francisco in the west. Now it has fewer than forty thousand. Gold and silver mines made Butte âthe richest hill on earth.â Later, it was copper. And it was copper, not gold, that gave Butte one of its lasting landmarks: the old Anaconda mine in the northwest corner of town, which also happens to be one of the biggest toxic waste sites in the country. It closed in 1982, but the hole that it left behind is colossal. That son of a bitch is two thousand feet deep and a mile and a half wide.
After Anaconda shut it down, the mine filled up with toxic water. Now itâs the countryâs biggest Superfund site. Canadian geese land there and die in the water after they splash down. Itâs sort of a tourist attraction, and I donât know if that says more about the site or the tourists who come to see it. When I brought my wife, Jessica, up to Big Sky Ski Resort to the east, near Bozeman, she looked at the mountains. âMy God, Montana is beautiful,â she said, before adding, âNothing like Butte.â
You could say the mines gave Butte another landmark, though. A more personal touchstone. Get this: Butte is the most Irish town in America, as a percentage of population. No shit. Most of the miners came over from Ireland and brought St. Patrick his holiness with them.
In 1979, an electrician named Bob OâBill came up with the idea of building a shrine to the Virgin Mary because his wife was dying of cancer. She recovered, but he pledged to build it anyway. Instead of being a five-foot-high statuette in his backyard, it became a ninety-foot monument that now presides over the entire city. He acquired some land on the East Ridge, right on top of the Continental Divide. Iâm talking 8,500 feet above sea level. I was about three when construction began, and it wasnât finished until 1985. Itâs a big-ass statue. Sheâs called the Lady of the Rockies, and she stands over the ridge with arms outstretched, palms up. She glows at night, lit up with white and green spotlights. When youâre in downtown Butte, âthe flats,â all the east-west city streets seem to end at her feet. When I looked up and saw her, she seemed to be looking down over the city and blessing the hard-luck Irish miners with her upturned hands, always visible from the sky and the ground. As far as I was concerned, the whole world was Irish Catholic, and she was watching over all of us. Sometimes my mom would drop us off at the trailhead at the bottom of the mountain, and weâd hike up to her. Sheâd grow taller and bigger the closer we got, until we stood at the foot of her flowing robes and looked up at her, as majestic to us as the Statue of Liberty.
For me, Butte felt like the center of the universe. The biggest ball game was right before Christmas when Butte Central played Butte High School in basketball. If you were lucky, you got to go over the mountain to Bozeman or maybe northwest to Missoula and watch the Montana Grizzlies play the Montana State Bob Cats. That was the big time. Butte didnât have a lot to hang its hat on. It did have Evel Knievel, who was from there. No shit.
Both my mom and dad grew up in Butte. There were four kids total in my family: two sisters and me and my brother. I went to the same high school as my parents had, Butte Central, which was the private Catholic high school. It was split up into Boyâs Central and Girlâs Central. My dad went to the University of Montana right out of high school on a basketball scholarship, and my mom went to Montana Tech for her first two years, which is where I ended up going to college. Then she transferred to UM to be with my dad. She became a math teacher, because she enjoyed solving problems. Thatâs where I get that from. A lot of combat is solving problems. Itâs slowing down, calming down, and finding solutions.
Now, some people assume I must have been a badass growing up. I was never a badass. I didnât beat people up when I was kid; in fact, I was probably beat up more than I did the beating. My childhood wasnât packed with martial arts classes and hard-hitting football. It was filled with jokes and laughter. This originated with my dad, who let us watch Trading Places, John Candyâs Delirious, and other movies like that. Totally inappropriate for kids. I held on to his sense of humor, too. I always want to make people laugh and keep morale high. Thatâs good for families. Itâs also good for soldiers, and it was an essential element for my teams. Youâll hear some of the funniest things in the most dire situations in the middle of combat. Like when I first arrived in Afghanistan, I assumed everything horrible that I heard on the news was true: suicide bombers everywhere, gunfights in the mountains, and land mines all over the place. As we were walking in the mountains to try to rescue Marcus Luttrell, I asked my boss, âWhat if we walk through a minefield?â Without missing a beat, he said with a completely straight face: âItâll be fine. Just plug your ears.â
Growing up, Butte felt like the hometown of every kid in America who wants to be somewhere bigger or more exciting. You think that just because someoneâs from Phoenix, Arizona, theyâre better than you. Or because someoneâs from Chicago, theyâre better. It gives you a little bit of an inferiority complex.
I always knew there was something else out there. I had to get to Great Lakes, Illinois, to go to U.S. Navy boot camp to see other scared kids just like me and realize that everyoneâs pretty much the same. I recall two dudes who left Los Angeles, one from Watts and one from South Central, in order to get away from gangs. Another person from Westchester County, New York, told me he couldnât stand it. Everyone has to get out of somewhere.
I try to get home about every two months. My mom and dad are still there, although amicably divorced, and I have to go back and check to see that my dad is behaving himself. My brother, Tommy, is still there, too. He has a morning drive-time radio show. Everyone in Butte knows him because he reads the school hot lunch menu every day. Itâs completely ridiculous. He gets to tell the kids if theyâre having beef oleâ for lunch that day, which is essentially chili and Fritos. I think heâs probably better known in Butte than I am.
* * *
BACK WHEN I BROUGHT MY SQUADRON to my hometown for a training mission in 2010, my team was at the highest point for morale. Especially in xxxxxxxxxxxxâmy squadronâbecause we hadnât lost anybody in combat since I had gotten there. Weâve been doing really well and we just finished a deployment.
When I was putting together training trips for my team, I thought, Man, Iâd love to go home on the governmentâs dime and bring a bunch of buddies up to show them the town. So I sold it as a high-altitude skydiving trip for about a dozen of us. Butteâs already a mile above sea level, so by the time youâre in the CH-47, weâre about three miles up and that air is thin. When youâre landing a jump at five thousand feet, your parachute is going really fast and you need to know how to do it.
I knew a former Air Force Pararescue guy who owns a company in Butte called The Peak. And I knew we could probably get an airplane up for free from the Air Force Base in Great Falls. And then I get the government to pay for our room and board, and I know the guy who owns a hotel, so I can put up with some good business. The trip was about two weeks long.
So, no shit, there we were, two miles above my hometown. High-altitude jumps can be hard if you donât take it seriously or get complacent. There is a lot going on and itâs easy to get cocky or overzealous or just plain forgetful. You have to calculate exactly how to get upwind of the drop zone, get the correct altitude to start your downwind portion, and then correct your âcrosswindâ portion so that you can turn and go into the wind just before you slow down to land. If you screw something up and come in too hot, you burn in, and that usually means that you die. If you âauger in,â you hit hard and hurt yourself badly, but youâll survive. On one of the jumps, one of my guys augered in right in front of my family. He slammed into the ground in a big cloud of dust, then jumped up and pretended he was fine because he was in front of everybody. We have a saying: âIf youâre going to be stupid, you better be hard.â Once we got back into the CH-47, and after we got into the air far enough from the crowd, he looked at me in pain. âOh, that fucking sucked,â he groaned.
As jumpmaster, I went last. I could hear the guys all around me laughing and talking, and when it was my turn to go, I got out there on the ramp. We were hovering almost directly above the house where I grew up. I watched the guys below me, shooting nose-first toward the ground. The sky was wide and huge over me, and below Montana spread to the east and west on both sides of the Continental Divide. I got up from my knees and ducked under the aft fuselage and launched outward and down, and as the wind rushed against my face at 120 miles an hour, I looked toward the streets and buildings below, getting closer and closer as my hometown rushed up to meet me.
Weâd jump during the day and at night go out to drink at Maloneyâs, a bar on North Main Street. Itâs got a big shamrock on the awning over the door, and Irish flags hanging over the bar. It boasts Jell-O shots for a dollar and nude centerfolds plaster the walls and ceiling inside the menâs bathroom. Not exactly PC, but hardly a surprise, either.
When my guys and I went to Maloneyâs, something would happen almost every night. The regular patrons would see a bunch of new guys in their bar, and after a few drinks would talk some shit. Pretty soon everyone was on their feet, ready to go. But thereâs a big difference between being a tough guy and a technical fighter trained in close-quarters combat. When one of the regulars would start to get in the face of one of my guys, I would try to tell them as gently as I could, âDonât do this. You donât want to do this.â
We really didnât get in fights. It went more like this: tough guys would try something, and then my guys would knock them out. Boom.
âI told you not to do that,â Iâd say afterward.
One of our SEALs sent a tough guy to the hospital, and he showed up at the bar the next night again with his jaw wired shut. Whatâs great about Butte is you can knock someone out and then help them up and have a drink with them. We didnât have a drink with the guy with the broken jaw, though, after one of his buddies grumbled, âMaybe someone should pay his medical bill,â and one of my guys cracked up and said, âMaybe someone should learn to fight.â Donât get me wrong, guys in Butte are tough and everyone has a âpuncherâs chanceâ of landing a good one, so if you visit, donât get too cocky.
We didnât spend all our nights at bars. We were there to train, and not just for high-altitude skydiving. Montana was a great place to train for disappearing into the mountains. Often, during missions in Iraq and Afghanistan, we would drop several klicks (kilometers) away, hump it to the target, do the job, and then cut out. But other times, weâd camp in the mountains for days at a hide site so that we could reach a hard-to-get-to target off in the middle of fuck knows where. And one of the ways you can get around in the mountains in Afghanistan is on horseback or on mules. Thatâs how the mujahideen drove out the Russians; they could fade into the mountains and move around on horseback. The United States even provided them with mules to do it; some of the mules that went to the muj came from farms in central Tennessee, not far from where I now live. So, in Montana we figured weâd find some cowboys to teach us how to pack a horse into the backcountry. Theyâd show us how to water the horses and take care of them, how to get everything strapped in tight, and spend a night or two in the mountains.
For this, we needed the right gear. I worked a line item into the budget for footwear for the training. After we arrived, we went up to Millerâs Boots and Shoes, a Butte mainstay on South Arizona Avenue, around the corner from the Dumas Brothel, and outfitted everyone with cowboy boots. Before the trip, I argued with my bosses that we needed boots because of rattlesnakes, and the bosses rolled their eyes and said, âYeah, okay, I know what youâre doing, but go ahead and get the boots.â The o...