Anna Swärdh
Hiding the Peacockâs Legs: Rhetoric, cosmetics and deception in Shakespeareâs Lucrece and Trussellâs Hellen
This essay explores rhetorical and cosmetic deception in William Shakespeareâs The Rape of Lucrece (1594) and John Trussellâs Raptus I Helenae. The First Rape of Faire Hellen (1595). The essay focuses on instances of âcolouringâ and âcloakingâ in the poems, terms used by contemporary rhetoricians to describe their art, to show how tensions between rhetorical skill and anxieties related to rhetorical deception are played out. Shakespeare and Trussell both employ narratorial commentary together with cloaking imagery to mark the rapistsâ rhetorical dissembling as morally despicable, whereas other strategies are used to portray the womenâs rhetorical and cosmetic cloaking and colouring as more defensible, if not completely unambiguous, forms of self-representation.
âLet her have shame that cannot closely actâ, Rosamond is told in Samuel Danielâs vogue-setting poem from 1592, The Complaint of Rosamond. The âseeming Matroneâ who helps seduce her into becoming the kingâs mistress uses various arguments, among them the idea that seeming or acting chaste is always more important than being chaste (Daniel, 1930: 216, 285).1 The problem of authenticity is central to the complaint poems that followed on Danielâs in the 1590s, all dealing with the delicate task of defending a fallen woman in a setting of rhetorical self-representation. In these poems, we find explicit comments on the duplicitousness of rhetoric but also constant references to seeming versus being, to masking and hiding, and to cosmetics. In this essay I focus on rhetoric as deception in two complaints, William Shakespeareâs The Rape of Lucrece (1594) and John Trussellâs Raptus I Helenae. The First Rape of Faire Hellen (1595).2 What singles these two texts out from the complaint group is their repeated employment of the terms âcloakingâ and âcolouringâ, terms that are used at the time by rhetoricians to describe their art and denoting concealment as well as rhetorical embellishment.3 Shakespeareâs and Trussellâs use of these terms signals the poetsâ rhetorical self-awareness as well as consciousness of the moral ambiguity inherent in the art of rhetorical persuasion.
Suspicions about rhetoric were regularly expressed in the early modern period, and rhetorical dissimulation was part of a larger context that has been called âa culture of secrecyâ by Jon Snyder (Snyder, 2009), and described in terms of âdissimulationâ by Perez Zagorin (Zagorin, 1990). A central text of early modern rhetorical culture is Baldassare Castiglioneâs The Courtier (1528, translated into English in 1561), with its stress on sprezzatura, the âcertain nonchalance which conceals all artistry and makes whatever one says or does seem uncontrived and effortlessâ (Castiglione, 1967: 67; cf. Snyder, 2009: 70â8). With its focus on the concealment of any art or skill that one possesses, The Courtier presents rhetorical skill as part of a larger enterprise of courtly self-representation and deception. In the same vein, as Frank Wigham and Wayne A. Rebhorn point out, George Puttenham in his Art of English Poesy (1589) defines all figures of speech as deceptions, âas deliberate attempts by the writer or speaker to âmake our talk more guileful and abusingââ (2007: 55). Andrew Hadfield points to one classical and one early modern source to exemplify the anxieties surrounding rhetoric in the early modern period. Quintilian, author of the extremely influential Institutio oratoria, is ârepeatedly anxious about the abuse of rhetoric to produce falsehoodâ, and the same fear that the art of rhetoric is the art of lying âcharacterises the anxieties expressed throughout the one substantial treatise on lying that was printed in sixteenth-century Englandâ, Mathieu Coignetâs A Politic Discourse upon Truth and Lying (1586) (Hadfield, 2013: 139).
While Lucrece employs verbal rhetoric in Shakespeareâs poem, Trussellâs Helen uses make-up to achieve her goals; and the same fears of deception that surrounded rhetoric in the early modern period clung to cosmetics. Castiglione finds make-up acceptable as long as it is used in moderation, even if the clean face is most attractive to men, âwho are always afraid of being deceived by artâ (Castiglione, 1967: 86). As Farah Karim-Cooper observes, the problem is the same, that of distinguishing between art and artfulness, in rhetorical as well as cosmetic embellishment (2006: 132â5). The connection between rhetorical and cosmetic ornamentation was frequently made at the time, often, as in Claudiusâ speech in Hamlet, verbalising worries about wrongful deception: âThe harlotâs cheek, beautified with plastâring art, / Is not more ugly to the thing that helps it / Than is my deed to my most painted wordâ (Shakespeare, 2003: 3.1.52â4). As we shall see, through her use of cosmetics Trussellâs Helen can be read as an embodiment of rhetorical embellishment.
With their interest in authenticity and deception, the complaint poems of the 1590s participate in the contemporary culture of rhetorical self-representation and dissimulation, working against as well as within anxieties about the deceptive power of rhetoric belonging to that culture. Starting from the figure of paradiastole (redescribing vices as virtues), this essay will explore instances of âcolouringâ and âcloakingâ found in Shakespeareâs and Trussellâs poems, to show how tensions between rhetorical skill and anxieties related to rhetorical deception are played out in Lucreceâs and Helenâs stories.
Tarquin and Theseus, Jove and Brutus
As several critics have pointed out, rhetoric and rhetorical training are central to Shakespeareâs Lucrece (among them Dubrow, 1987; Enterline, 2000; Ellis, 2003; Roe, 2006; Greenstadt, 2010; Weaver, 2012). The words âoratorâ and âoratoryâ occur five times in the poem, and we find references to reading, books, tales, schools, eloquence, words, cipher, debate and disputation. When colouring and cloaking occur in the poem, it is often in close vicinity to words related to rhetoric, signalling what was at the time a well-established connection. Similarly, in their manuals and guides, rhetoricians speak of their art in a language borrowed from the fields of painting, cosmetics and clothing. In The English Secretorie (1586), Angel Day opens the epistle dedicatory (to Edward de Vere) with two references to skilled painters, deception being a part of Zeuxisâ skill:
ZEUXES endevouring to paint excellentlie, made Grapes in shewe so naturall, that presenting the[m] to view men were deceaved with their shapes and their birds with their cullours. When Apelles drew Venus (though the shew of bewutie seemed woonderful) he daunted not in his workmanship, because he knew his cunning excellent.
Thomas Wilson, in The Arte of Rhetorique (1553), writes that elocution âbeautifieth the tongue with great change of colours and variety of figuresâ (in Vickers, 1999: 120), and in the section on âExornationâ, he advises that âwe may boldly commend and beautify our talk with divers goodly colours and delightful translations, that our speech may seem as bright and precious as a rich stone is fair and orientâ (in Vickers, 1999: 123). Puttenham uses both clothing and colouring repeatedly throughout The Art of English Poesy: for instance, we are told how âour vulgar poesyâ cannot show itself âeither gallant or gorgeous if any limb be left naked and bare and not clad in his kindly clothes and coloursâ (Puttenham, 2007: 3.1.221f.).
While rhetorical embellishment was thus generally spoken of in terms of colouring and cloaking, Quentin Skinner has claimed that they are âthe two favourite metaphorsâ used by rhetoricians to capture specifically the power of the figure of paradiastole to âdisorder the vices and virtuesâ (Skinner, 2007: 156f.). Richard Sherrey, Angel Day, George Puttenham and Henry Peacham all offer definitions of paradiastole in their rhetorical handbooks, and two of them make use of these metaphors. Peacham defines paradiastole as vices covered in âthe mantles of vertuesâ (Peacham, 1593: 169; Skinner, 2007: 157), while Day uses the term âcolourâ in his definition: âParadiastole, when with a milde interpretation or speech, wee color others or our owne faultes, as when wee call a subtill person, wise, a bold fellow, couragious, a prodigall man, liberall: a man furious or rash, valiant: a Parasite, a companion: him that is proud, Magnanimous: and such likeâ (Day, 1592: 90f.). The concepts of colouring and clothing are thus central to the idea of rhetorical embellishment and redescription in early modern England, and they are used with positive as well as negative connotations.
Both Shakespeareâs and Trussellâs poems include rhetorical redescription of a kind that can be termed paradiastolary, and instances that make use of colouring and cloaking. Such rhetoric is given negative connotations in relation to the rapist men, and can be taken as one strategy the poets use to set up a contrast between unacceptable and acceptable versions of rhetorical dissimulation. In Lucrece, the narrator comments on Tarquinâs premeditated justification of the rape in terms that define Tarquinâs venture as paradiastole:
Thus graceless holds he disputation
âTween frozen conscience and hot burning will,
And with good thoughts makes dispensation,
Urging the worser sense for vantage still;
Which in a moment doth confound and kill
All pure effects, and doth so far proceed
That what is vile shows like a virtuous deed.
(Shakespeare, 2006: 246â52)
John Roe glosses âdisputes formallyâ for âholds ⌠disputationâ (Roe, 2006: note to line 246), placing the section of Tarquinâs internal battle, and the particular stanza, squarely within the field of formal rhetorical debate. Tarquin debates with himself for a long time, and at this point the narrator sums up and signals disapproval. Peachamâs 1577 description of paradiastole as a figure used âwhen vices are excusedâ (Peacham, 1577: Sig. Niiiiv) is, as Skinner points out, changed to a more negative dismissal in the 1593 edition of The Garden of Eloquence, when it is referred to as âa faulty term of speechâ and a âvice of speechâ that is âa fit instrument of excuse serving to self-love, partial favour, blinde affection, and a shamelesse person, which for the better maintenance of wickednesse useth to cover vices with the mantles of vertuesâ (Peacham, 1593: 168f.; Skinner, 2007: 158). In the passages from Lucrece, Peachamâs negative attitude to paradiastole (and the dissembling it stands for) is echoed in the narratorâs âgracelessâ and âvileâ. And Tarquinâs rhetoric is indeed paradiastolary when he redescribes his lust for Lucrece in terms of love, first to himself â âthere is no hate in lovingâ (240), and âLove thrives not in the heart that shadows dreadethâ (270) â and later to Lucrece, describing his âloving taleâ (480), and demanding: âYield to my love, if not, enforced hate, / Instead of loveâs coy touch, shall rudely tear theeâ (668f.).
The poem uses terms of colouring and cloaking to show how Tarquin hides his intentions in the company of the innocent and unsuspecting Lucrece before the rape. His exterior does not show âhis inward illâ that âhe coloured with his high estate, / Hiding base sin in pleats of majesty; / That nothing in him seemed inordinateâ (91â4). Here both colours and the folds of garments (âpleatsâ) are used to portray his deceit, and the naive Lucrece cannot âpickâ any meaning from his âparling looks, / Nor read the subtle shining secrecies / Writ in the glassy margents of such booksâ (100â2). In these passages, colours and garments, together with books, margins and failed reading, form a situation of successful rhetorical deception, but one condemned by the narrator.
John Trussellâs Raptus I Helenae. The First Rape of Faire Hellen, published the year after Shakespeareâs Lucrece, is heavily influenced by that poem (see Shaaber, 1957: 415â18). That influence also includes a rhetoric of cloaking and colouring. The bulk of the poem is narrated by Helen, framed by eight stanzas in the poetâs voice. The Helen of Trussellâs poem is young, âeight score monethsâ (43), which is 13 years and four months, but suitors are already approaching her to see her famed beauty, and amongst the visitors is Theseus. The Theseus episode exists in a number of early accounts of the Helen myth (Shaaber, 1957: 418â20; Maguire, 2009: 14), but Trussellâs version is unusual in that the rape (usually an abduction for safekeeping) is a sexual rape. The âfirst rapeâ of the poemâs title thus refers to this rape by Theseus, and not the later abduction by Paris.
Like Tarquin, Theseus displays a paradiastolary attitude. âOft namâd he love, but then he thought of lust, / oft namâd he fancy, meaning lecheryâ (109f.), Helen tells us, and she goes on to explain that she is too innocent to correctly understand Theseus: âYet I not knowing lust, too yoong to love, / Could neither fancie nor affection prooveâ (113f.). Understanding that Helen is not interested, Theseus hides his intentions, and in this section of the poem we find the same terminology we saw used about Tarquin. âSo cunningly he cloked his desireâ that Helen believes he has changed his mind (129f.), and when he catches Helen alone on the beach where the rape will take place, again, until the very moment âhis sparks of hidden fireâ break forth, he âdid it while then so slylie cloake, / That there might be perceived, nor flame, nor smokeâ (148f.). Just like Tarquin, Theseus is successful in his self-representation, cunningly and slyly cloaking his desire and evil intent, and Helenâs adverbs signal how we should read this specific instance of cloaking.
Another rapist who figures in the poem is Jove, who famously approached Leda (Helenâs mother) in the guise of a swan. Here the cloaking imagery recurs, as âthis Swans shape that shrouded Deityâ is termed âbut a shift to cloke impietyâ (617f.). Here too the cloaking serves to hide intentions before the act, which Jove carries out in âhis pristine shapeâ, the disguise thrown off: âFor though he counterfeits a feathered weed, / In his owne shape he doth the devillish deedâ (628â30). âWeedâ is defined by the OED as âa garmentâ, or âclothing, apparelâ (OED 1.a., 2). In this instance too, the narrator (at this point Lerna, Ledaâs nurse) signals a condemnation of the behaviour.
In the cases of Tarquin, Theseus and Jove, the concepts of cloaking and colouring thus have negative connotations. However, at the end of Lucrece, after the...