Design of New Weave Patterns

Radostina A. Angelova

• Publisher: CRC Press
• Year: 2019
• Print ISBN: 9780367347857
• eBook ISBN: 9781000708011
• Edition: 1
• Topic: Art
• Subtopic: Art Techniques

This book presents a systematic study on methods used for the creation of weave patterns for simple structures. Firstly, it explains known techniques for designing new weave patterns classified as patterns merge, motifs, patterns insertion and change of the displacement number. These are discussed as possibilities to create different textures and weaving effects supported by figures of patterns, colour view, and fabric appearance simulation. Secondly, it explains original methods for design of new weave patterns based on Boolean operations, musical scores, written texts and braille alphabet, including transformations performed, advantages/disadvantages, possible applications and designs.

Section I

Classical Methods for Design of New Weave Patterns

1	Brief History of Weave Patterns

The woven fabrics are 3D macrostructures produced due to the interlacing of at least two sets of threads: vertical (warps) and horizontal (wefts). Usually, the woven fabric is produced on a weaving machine (loom). Figure 1.1 shows a picture of a handloom, and Figure 1.2 shows a modern air-jet jacquard weaving machine.

The macrostructure of the woven fabric consists of two levels (Figure 1.3):

• Mesostructure, formed by the threads: yarns of filaments;

• Microstructure, consisting of fibers that are spun into yarns or monofilaments that constitute the filaments (polyfilaments).

The Latin word textilis means woven. The modern term textiles is frequently associated with woven fabrics, but nowadays the textiles can have three different types of a macrostructure: woven, knitted, and nonwoven.

The most accessible and probably first used by the humans fibers for textiles were extracted from lime tree, oak, willow, or elm. Among them non-fibrous raw materials were also used, applying the same principles of interlacing flexible branches or reed. Flax is considered to be the earliest domesticated plant, followed by hemp: both of them associated with Asia as a homeland. Kvavadze et al. (2009) reported the discovery of wild flax dyed fibers, used in a fabric, in the Dzudzuana Cave in Georgia, dated from 32,000 to 26,000 years BP. Though the appearance of some disagreements (Bergfjord et al., 2010), these flax fibers are thought to be the oldest evidence of textiles used by humans.

In Europe, the oldest artifact for textiles/basketry use dates back 25,000–27,000 BP, discovered in Dolní Vestonice I, Czech Republic (Soffer et al., 2001). The next oldest proof of fiber-based technology developed by humans came from the Sea of Galilee in Israel, Ohalo II: Z-twist cordage from an unknown plant species was dated to be produced 19,300 years BP (Nadel et al., 1994).

The oldest evidence for textiles production in Asia comes from the Far East (Derevyanko & Medvedev, 1995) and dates to 13,500 BP. In North America, the oldest textiles artifacts are dated to be produced around 11,000 years BP (Andrews & Adovasio, 1996) and in South America, in Monte Verde, Chile, dated around 13,000 BP (Adovasio, 1997).

The oldest weave pattern, used by humans, is the plain weave. Long before the manufacturing of the first textile, it was applied for basketry production. In the plain weave, the first weft thread goes alternately under the first warp thread, then over the second warp thread, etc. The second weft thread goes first over the first warp thread, then under the second warp thread, etc. Thus, a sta...

Table of contents

• Cover
• Half Title
• Title Page
• Copyright Page
• Table of Contents
• Foreword
• Preface
• Acknowledgments
• Author
• SECTION I Classical Methods for Design of New Weave Patterns
• SECTION II New Methods for Design of New Weave Patterns
• Index