Cosmetic Formulation

Principles and Practice

Heather A.E. Benson, Heather Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vania Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth Walters, Heather A.E. Benson, Heather Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vania Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth Walters, Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vania Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth Walters

• Publisher: CRC Press
• Year: 2019
• eBook ISBN: 9780429529085
• Edition: 1
• Topic: Medicine
• Subtopic: Pharmacology

Cosmetics are the most widely applied products to the skin and include creams, lotions, gels and sprays. Their formulation, design and manufacturing ranges from large cosmetic houses to small private companies. This book covers the current science in the formulations of cosmetics applied to the skin. It includes basic formulation, skin science, advanced formulation, and cosmetic product development, including both descriptive and mechanistic content with an emphasis on practical aspects.

Key Features:

Covers cosmetic products/formulation from theory to practice

Includes case studies to illustrate real-life formulation development and problem solving

Offers a practical, user-friendly approach, relying on the work of recognized experts in the field

Provides insights into the future directions in cosmetic product development

Presents basic formulation, skin science, advanced formulation and cosmetic product development

1

Cosmetic Products: Science and Senses

John Jiménez, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva and Heather A.E. Benson

CONTENTS

Senses and Science: Art, Science and Communication, and Their Role in Cosmetic Products

Discovering the Consumer’s Insight

Verbatim

Insight

Claim

Colour Psychology

Colour and Its Influence over Emotions

Importance of the Chromatic Accord

Sensory Additivity

The Role of Colour in Sensory Additivity

Innovation in Implicit Evaluation

Explicit Evaluation vs. Implicit Evaluation

Neuroscience Techniques Applied in the Formulation Stage

Examples of Eye-Tracking Application

Examples of Eye-Tracking and EEG Application in Hair Care Products

Synesthesia in Design

References

Modern cosmetics are associated with beauty and well-being. They are used to highlight and accentuate features and decrease attention to perceived imperfections. Beauty has been appreciated since the beginning of civilization, and the development of cosmetics has progressed with human history, drawing on both scientific and cultural evolution. In modern Western societies, a relationship is established between body beauty, intelligence and high purchasing power.

There is evidence of body painting used as camouflage for hunting and to show ferocity in inter-tribal wars as early as prehistoric times. The Picts, a tribe living in Scotland in 1000 BC, were named for the Latin term pictus (painted) by the Romans (Butler, 2000). Aboriginal body painting has been used by Australian aborigines for thousands of years. The colours and patterns vary between regions and tribes. Hours can be spent applying body paint, often by a relative, in preparation for religious and cultural ceremonies.

Egypt’s last queen, Cleopatra (51–30 BC), bathed in goat’s milk to give her softer, smoother skin. There is extensive evidence of the Egyptians’ use and importance of cosmetics; indeed many were placed in tombs along with the most precious artefacts needed in the afterlife. Items recovered by archaeologists have included leaves of henna from which the Egyptians extracted dye to colour the palms of the hands, soles of the feet, nails and hair, red ochre for face colouring, green colouring from malachite (copper carbonate ore) for the eyes, and kohl for eyelashes and eyebrows. Jars containing oils, unguents and ointments used to cleanse, moisturize and decorate the skin, together with incense, equipment for pulverising and preparing cosmetics, razors, and so forth were frequently recovered in tombs dating as far back as 3000 BC (Poucher, 1941). Indeed there is clear evidence of the use and continued development of cosmetics utilizing minerals, plants and animal products throughout the Middle East, India, China and Europe (Butler, 2000). From the 15th and 16th centuries onwards, the rapid advancement in trade brought new opportunities that have led to the global industry in cosmetics we see today. Helen Butler provides an excellent and thorough history of the development of cosmetics in her chapter ‘Cosmetics Through the Ages’ (Butler, 2000). In addition, our knowledge of anatomy, physiology, metabolism, toxicology and other related sciences has provided a greater understanding of the skin, hair and body, facilitating the development of more effective and safer cosmetic products that meet the demands and expectations of the consumers of this century.

Many factors have contributed to the multibillion-dollar cosmetic product industry we enjoy today. Over the course of the last century, the role of women changed with increasing participation in the labour market, leading to greater awareness of self-image but also more disposable income to devote to appearance. Marketing of cosmetic products became more sophisticated with the introduction of new technologies from mass-produced print magazines, to television and the Internet with its highly effective social me...

Table of contents

• Cover
• Half-Title
• Title
• Copyright
• Dedication
• Contents
• Foreword
• Preface
• Contributors
• 1 Cosmetic Products: Science and Senses
• 2 Skin Morphology, Development and Physiology
• 3 Stratum Corneum Lipid Composition and Organization
• 4 Immunology of Skin and Reactivity
• 5 The Human Nail: Structure, Properties, Therapy and Grooming
• 6 Hair Morphology, Biogenesis, Heterogeneity, Pathophysiology and Hair Follicle Penetration
• 7 Common Cosmetic Ingredients: Chemistry, Actions, Safety and Products
• 8 Thickening Agents
• 9 Surfactants in Cosmetic Products
• 10 Oils
• 11 Moisturizers
• 12 Preservation and Preservatives
• 13 Powders in Cosmetic Formulations
• 14 Natural Products and Stem Cells and Their Commercial Aspects in Cosmetics
• 15 Designed Antimicrobial Peptides: A New Horizon
• 16 Understanding Fragrance: From Chemistry to Emotion
• 17 Sunscreens
• 18 Advanced Formulation Techniques Including Innovative Materials
• 19 Advanced Nanoformulation Technologies in Cosmetic Science
• 20 Nanocarrier-Based Formulations: Production and Cosmeceutic Applications
• 21 From Formulation Design to Production: The Scale-Up Process
• 22 Topical Products Applied to the Nail
• 23 Packaging of Cosmetic and Personal Care Products
• 24 Sensory Analysis Applied to Cosmetic Products
• 25 Alternative Methods: New Rules
• 26 In Vitro Methods: Alternatives to Animal Testing
• Index