The earliest theoretical research tradition on lifestyles, starting from the 1890s, is that including models whichâfrom different points of viewâconsider them as a direct expression of social stratification. In that research, a lifestyle is a variable depending on standing, i.e. social position, prestige, income. This is thus the approach which most closely associates the lifestyle concept with that of class, social level or, more generally, social position, assuming that the system of inequalities and lifestyles depends upon social structure. In this theoretical model, employment, education and availability of goods are objective indicators.1
In this chapter, then, we shall introduce the main suggestions developed in this perspective, albeit according to different perspectives, considering in particular the classical theories of Veblen, Weber, Simmel and Bourdieu. Indeed, what distinguishes these authors is the interpretation of a lifestyle as an element produced by individualsâ social position. Of course this does not mean that they adopt a perspective within which individualsâ tastes and choices are totally determined, yet in their analysis a lifestyle takes shape explicitly as a visible expression of the endowments and cultural models which characterize a subject's standing. On the other hand, if it is true that social position is expressed and becomes visible, partly, by means of lifestyle, at the same time it is also true that the social position is itself in some ways defined by the lifestyleâin a circular process.
1.1 Emulation
Underpinning Veblen's point of view there is a criticism of classical economics, whose categories are applicable only in very specific circumstances because they do not sufficiently take into account social context or the historical and cultural variability of economic patterns (Coser, 1971: 264â5). More specifically, in his eyes such an approach considers the individual as an efficient calculator of costs and benefits, endowed with constant, homogeneous objectives, lacking a past, whereas reality demonstrates that an individual is a carrier of a set of attitudes and modes of action tending to be expressed and fulfilled through multiform, continuous activity of adjustment between means and ends, influenced by acquired experience and the social environment in which one finds oneself an actor.
Specifically, patterns of thought and awareness are in that sense largely a reflection of âschemes of lifeâ: according to the predominant productive model in a society and the employment roles played by single individuals, one may observe in more detail an elaboration of diversified mental habits which also have repercussions upon different kinds of awareness and behaviour (Veblen, 1919).
Bearing in mind this historical and contextual variability of frameworks of action and thought, Veblen nevertheless stresses that it is principally the nature of competition connoting human vicissitudes that is central to the various environments: a person's self-esteem is in fact a reflection of the esteem of others; consequently, because individuals evaluate themselves exclusively or mostly through comparison with their peers, they will be constantly forced to attempt to demonstrate their superiority to the others. Indeed if everybody is seeking othersâ esteem, this is an object of competition becauseâby definitionânot everybody can reach the same elevated status. In a highly competitive culture, value accorded to effort will always be accompanied by the fear of potential loss of recognition on the part of others.
But in Veblen's eyes human evolution is based mainly on technological and economic innovations, and the individual's position vis-Ă -vis technological and economic models defines his/her way of acting and thinking. Efforts to procure means of subsistence develop customs which over time become institutional forms sanctioned by the community, and so the very evolution of society in its organization takes form as a process of natural selection of institutions.
With regard to today's Western society, the institution of private property is one of the fundamental traits which in this way defines its organization.
But the emergence of private property cannot be explained only by the need to procure the necessities of survival. The principle may be valid in the early stages of technological development, or in social situations characterized by extreme poverty, but once these conditions have been overcome, only the instinct to emulate can explain its institution. âThe motive that lies at the root of ownership is emulation; [. . .] the possession of wealth confers honour; it is an invidious distinctionâ (Veblen, 1912: 26). Thus private property becomes a human institution arising from necessities connected not so much with subsistence as with antagonistic-distinction needs. Indeed, based on this different principle, the desire to possess derives not from biological needs but from a need for a sense of superiority over other people. However, this sense of superiority is fully realized only when it is acknowledged by the others: so there is a need not only to be, but also to demonstrate oneself to be, superior. The desire to appear economically powerful therefore strongly influences people's actions, driving them on to continuous competitive emulation of those social sectors which they perceive as being superior and to which, as a result, they wish to draw closer.
More specifically, in historical-social contexts where the separation of classes is porous and belonging mobile, each social level accepts as an honorable ideal the life pattern of that immediately above it and tries to live up to that ideal. The leisure class finds itself at the apex of the social structure in terms of respectability, and for this reason its way of living and evaluation criteria supply the community's canon of respectability, becoming a duty to be observed by all the inferior social classes (ibid.: 83â4).
But to acquire and keep the esteem of others, possession of wealth and/ or power is not enough: they must also be highlighted by consumption.2 In contemporary society ostentation symbolizing a high living standard, and especially conspicuous consumption, are thus the basic means by which people try to overtake their peers and so to improve their self-assessment. And while in the past conspicuous consumption was characteristic only of the leisure class at the summit of the social hierarchy, it has become in time a point of reference for the whole social structure in that every classâwithin the limits of its possibilitiesâtries to imitate the distinctive practices of the upper class.
Because the possession of property has become the basis of social esteem it has also become the yardstick of âself-respectâ: an individual must possess an equal amount of goods as do those among whom he classifies himselfâ more, if possible. And, because every degree of wealth defines a new level of comfort and a new financial classification, there is a progressive tendency to raise the barrier of socially-demanded wealth.3
Well then, whatever one's social level, the accumulation objective is that of overtaking those with the same financial possibilities. The conflict therefore takes shape as an antagonistic comparison oriented towards the conquest of âhonourâ (ibid.: 1â3, 15â8, 26â30), where there are no fixed targets; and relative success at a given moment in the financial confrontation, a temporarily-favourable position, becomes the conventional aim of action (ibid.: 32â4). Emulation is therefore behind conspicuous consumption, an antagonistic confrontation driving one to outdo those with whom one tends to classify oneself, defined by the customs of those immediately above on the social scale, until one arrives at the highest social class, which defines âthe scheme of life [. . .] decent or honorific [. . .] by precept and exampleâ (ibid.: 104). Conspicuous consumption is estimable because it is a sign of financial power which, in its turn, is estimable because it is an indicator of âsuccess and superior forceâ: if a âgood reputeâ is founded on financial power, conspicuous consumption of goods is the way to demonstrate it (ibid.: 84, 181).
Therefore the process of emulation and that of its counterpart, distinction, are not just based on goods: alongside wealth and its exhibition, there are also âother standards of repute and other [. . .] canons of conductâ (ibid.: 91).
Above all it is not only the quantity of goods consumed over and above what is necessary for survival that matters but also their quality ...