Sustainable Fibres and Textiles

Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu

• Publisher: Woodhead Publishing
• Year: 2017
• Print ISBN: 9780081020418
• eBook ISBN: 9780081020425
• Topic: Technology & Engineering
• Subtopic: Engineering General
• Index: Technology & Engineering

Sustainable Fibres and Textiles provides a whole-lifecycle approach to the subject of sustainable textiles, from fiber production, through manufacturing and low-energy care and recycling. The scientific, industrial, regulatory and social aspects of this lifecycle are explored by an expert author team who bring global perspectives to this important subject. The first part of the book provides detailed coverage of the sustainable production of textiles, with chapters devoted to each of the main fiber types, including new biosynthetic fibers, such as textiles produced from Polylactic Acid (PLA). The second part examines sustainable production methods, focusing on low carbon production technologies and sustainable, low-pollution methods of processing and dyeing fabrics. The final sections explore the benefits of textiles designed to enable low-energy fabric care via both finishes used to treat the fabric and better care labelling. Re-use and recycling options are also covered, as are ethical aspects, such as fair trade fabrics. - Presents an integrated understanding of sustainability through the whole supply-chain – from agriculture, through manufacturing and fabric care, to recycling - Teachers users how to make optimal choices of fiber and manufacturing technologies to achieve the sustainable production of high-quality apparel and other textile products - Provides a wider understanding of emerging regulatory frameworks that will shape the future of sustainable textiles

1

Introduction to sustainable fibres and textiles

Ponnusamy Senthil Kumar, and Subburaj Suganya SSN College of Engineering, Chennai, India

Abstract

After agriculture, the textile sector is the oldest and dates back several centuries ago. In terms of trade, gross domestic product, and the overall Index of Industrial Production, the garment industry grows 5.4% every year, according to the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council. Hot and humid weather, locally available labour, raw cotton, the generation of hydropower, entrepreneurial skills and port facilities and transport systems are favourable to the textile industry and create a great demand for the production of yarn. Meanwhile, problems exist in the textile industry owing to disorganized systems and infrastructure, the global recession, strong competition in the world market, a lack of energy and electricity and diminishing export orders. A rise in the price of raw materials resulted in lower productivity, advanced machinery and modernization, bringing down the value of textile products. The textile industry is also responsible for a major part of the total industrial pollution that affects farmland and rivers. To overcome these demands and environmental impacts, organic farming helps in the cultivation of highly drought-tolerant crops. They are grown to be eco-friendly, for waste-to-wear technology. The processing and supply chain is also concerned about the long-term health of the planet, by reducing the release of CO₂ into the environment. This chapter discusses the upgrading of technology that results in a less concentrated feed, no or a less harmful effect on the environment and traceability and transparency in the product, which guarantees minimum standards with regard to sustainability.

Keywords

Disorganized system; Hydropower; Organic fibre; Pollution; Sustainability; Technology upgrading; Traceability

1.1. Introduction

In the 15th century, European countries traded commodities and high-quality goods by sea, a method of transport which required no taxes for the goods. The British started the East India Company, which was followed by Dutch trading 2 years later. They bought Indian goods, especially textiles. Spices were the primarily favoured in exchange for gold and silver (World Acrylic Fiber, 2013). The immense response from Europe to Indian textiles made them fashionable, trendy and traditional. Calico, pyjamas, gingham, dungarees, chintz, and khaki attained the peak of popularity in Eastern and European countries. Many textile products are named based on where they are manufactured. For instance Kashmir shawls and Kanjipuram silk exhibit the ancient art of weaving. Second only to agriculture, textile is the largest industry in India; 17% of India’s gross domestic product is in textiles, and whole exports are as one of the largest employers (CAPMAS, 2014). However, the textile sector is divided into two broad categories: organized and disorganized. The presence of modern machineries and updated technology makes it a grand success in large-scale production, which is called organized. Small-scale producers using conventional methods such as handlooms, handicrafts and sericulture with traditional tools are called disorganized.

Although the garment industry has become the backbone of many nations, there are no proper guidelines maintained by manufacturers. It poses a human threat, such as the tragedy of the Ranipet Tannery disaster that occurred in Tamil Nadu, India, in which 10 workers drowned in a toxic pollutant tank. The tank in which the people drowned contained chromium and other hazardous materials to mummify animal skins. In addition, the garment building collapse in Savar became a critical issue in Bangladesh as well as the rest of the world as a result of the death of thousands of labourers. From this incident, the media and activists raised questions about the safety and sustainability of the textile industry and its employees.

Many garment industries ignore minimum safety guidelines regarding the raw materials, machinery and technologies adopted for rapid production, and have no uniform labour policy. A sufficient investment does not include the proper route of waste discharge or recycling unit. As a result, hazardous chemicals are released in the open environment, which directly or indirectly affects ecological species as well as humans. The slow release and high toxicity of the chemicals make natural resources such as soil infertile. The result is reflected in the next generation, which is born with illness, and in the depletion of natural sources to consume and with which to survive. Manufacturers should obey government policies and avoid illegal steps in waste management.

The textile processing industry consumes large amounts of water along with chemicals for various purposes. It is recommended to reduce the generation of waste and its life-threatening impacts on the surroundings by modifying improper production procedures, reducing packaging, altering raw materials, enhancing handling, considering energy efficiency, using less water consumption with a proper discharging unit, and not ignoring the use of toxic metals in industry (CAPMAS, 2014; Rock and Angel, 2007). Few garment industries make preventive plans to monitor pollution levels, optimizing energy by selecting suitable equipment and methodology. Textile wastewater is released in the form of solids, liquids and gas, which is a serious issue for researchers working with social environmental concerns.

Organic fibre may be a promising tool to resolve all of these important issues associated with the garment, apparel, tannery and textile industries, and which needs to be endorsed by the public. Plants and animals have been used globally to produce natural fibres for textiles since ancient and medieval times. Later, because of the lack of available natural resources, man-made or synthetic fibres were used. To overcome such a demand, experts suggest organic farming. The cultivation of cotton, silk, Tencel, ramie, organic linen, milk silk, corn fibre, bamboo fibres, alpaca, soy silk, pineapple and banana for fibres and hemp are advised for their highly drought-tolerant ability. In addition, synthetic fibres such as polyester, nylon, viscose, acrylic and polypropylene recycled polyester, jute, black diamond fibre, polylactic acid fibre, Lycra, Lyocell, organic silk and organic wool, etc., can be recycled through waste-to-wear technology (Rock and Angel, 2007).

1.2. Principles of sustainability

Meeting human needs without overwhelming nature or society is called sustainability. To improve this, organic textile must cover the cultivation of raw material, mass production, manufacturing, processing, packaging, labelling and distribution of organic textiles globally. The final product would be in the form of fibres, yarns, fabrics and garments including home textile products. The garment industry is sustainable with basic requirements framed by the Global Organic Textile Standard (Lo et al., 2012). It also investigates the quality of organic fibres according to high-level environmental and social criteria. It includes organic certification, labelling and licensing that ensure the organic status of textiles from harvesting raw materials through environmentally socially responsible manufacturing units to provide credible assurance to the consumer.

1.2.1. Raw materials

Raw materials of textiles can be derived from natural and synthetic fibres. Seed hairs such as cotton, stem (bast) fibres such as flax and hemp, leaf fibres such as sisal, and husk fibres coconut are derived from plant fibres. Wool, hair and secretions such as silk are derived from animal fibres. Abaca is a source of rope that is used instead of glass fibres in automobiles to save energy. Alpaca wool is a high-end luxury fabric with a yield of 5000 tons per year. Coir is a short fibre extracted from the outer shell of coconuts; it is used in ropes, mattresses, brushes, geotextiles and automobile seats.

Angora wool is derived from angora rabbits; it is silky white, fine and soft and is used in high-quality knitwear. Camel hair is found in Mongolia (Fresner, 1998). Bactrian camels are the source of this soft fibre. Baby camel hair is in high demand. Cotton is a world-famous natural fibre made of pure cellulose. It is still the undisputed king of the global garment industry. Flax is called one of the world’s strongest fibres once it is harvested, spun and woven. Cashmere is famous for its soft touch and great insulation properties. Hemp opens the door for cottonization with high quality.

Silk is called the ‘queen of fabrics’. Such a royal fibre has been used since ancient times. Mohair is a white, fine and silky fibre noted for its softness, brightness and receptiveness to rich dyes. Jute is a farmer-friendly fibre which provides a livelihood to millions of small farmers because of its strong threads used in sackcloth. Ramie is one of the strongest natural fibres, similar to flax. It is white with silky lustre absorbency and the density of silk lustre. Sisal is strongly believed to replace glass fibres that are too coarse for textiles used in composite materials, cars and furniture. Wool is the world’s premier textile fibre which produces a limited supply but unique traits.

Over the past half century, synthetic or man-made fibres have begun to displace natural fibres in clothing, household furnishings, industries and agriculture. Man-made fibres are given names such as acrylic, nylon, polyester and polypropylene. The success of synthetic fibres is due to their low cost and inexpensive treatment methodology. Commonly used synthetic fibres are mass produced from petrochemicals to uniform strengths, lengths and colours which are easily customized to specific applications.

The emerging ‘green’ economy is based on energy efficiency, renewable feedstocks in polymer products and industrial processes for recycling materials that reduce carbon emissions. Carbon fibres are made from polyacrylonitrile, about 90% (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AirDye) of which is obtained from precursors and the remaining percentage of which is used for rayon or petroleum pitch. These materials are specifications from long strings of molecules and bound together this exact variation of precursor from one to another. The process by which polyester is manufactured from the main ingredient of ethylene is called polymerization. Polyester is frequently used for paper; the general term is for a high molecule with an ester bond structure, but it refers to polyethylene terephthalate in the case of fibre. It is characterized by high strength, superior heat and water resistance. Spandex is a lightweight, synthetic fibre made of a long chain called polyurethane that is useful for stretchable clothing such as sportswear.

1.2.2. Factors affecting the textile industries

The fundamental strength of this industry flows from its strong production base of a wide range of fibres/yarns from natural fibres such as cotton, jute, silk and wool to synthetic/man-made fibres such as polyester, viscose, nylon and acrylic. With escalating demand for textile products, textile mills and their wastewater have been increasing proportionally, causing a major problem of pollution in the world. Many chemicals used in the textile industry cause environmental and health problems. Among the many chemicals in textile wastewater, dyes are considered important pollutants. Worldwide environmental problems associated with the textile industry are typically those associated with water pollution caused by the discharge of untreated effluent and those because of the use of toxic chemicals especially during processing (Fresner, 1998). The effluent is of critical environmental concern because it drastically decreases oxygen concentration as a result of the presence of hydrosulphides and blocks the passage of light through the water body, which is detrimental to the water ecosystem. Textile effluent is the cause of a significant amount of environmental degradation and human illnesses. About 40% of globally used colourants contain organically bound chlorine, a known carcinogen (Fresner, 1998). Chemicals evaporate into the air we breathe or are absorbed through our skin; they show up as allergic reactions and may cause harm to children even before birth. Owing to this chemical pollution, the normal functioning of cells is disturbed, which in turn may alter the physiology and biochemical mechanisms of animals, resulting in impairment of important functions such as respiration, osmoregulation, reproduction and even mortality. Heavy metals, which are present in textile industry effluent, are not biodegradable; hence they accumulate in primary organs in the body and over time begin to fester, leading to various symptoms of diseases. Thus untreated or incompletely treated textile effluent can be harmful to both aquatic and terrestrial life by adversely affecting the natural ecosystem and causing long-term health effects (Fresner, 1998; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AirDye).

The common practice of low process efficiency results in substantially wasted resources and severe damage to the environment. ...

Table of contents

• Cover image
• Title page
• Table of Contents
• The Textile Institute Book Series
• Copyright
• Dedication
• List of contributors
• Preface
• 1. Introduction to sustainable fibres and textiles
• Part One. Sustainable fibre production
• Part Two. Sustainable textile and apparel production
• Index