Advances in Women's Intimate Apparel Technology

Yu Wing Man

• Publisher: Woodhead Publishing
• Year: 2016
• Print ISBN: 9781782423690
• eBook ISBN: 9781782423904
• Topic: Technology & Engineering
• Subtopic: Industrial Engineering
• Index: Technology & Engineering

Advances in Women's Intimate Apparel Technology discusses the design and manufacture of intimate apparel and how the industry is increasingly embracing novel materials, new technologies, and innovations in sizing and fit.The book reviews the ways in which new materials and methods are improving the range, function, and quality of intimate apparel, with particular focus on brassiere design. Part One introduces the advanced materials used for intimate apparel, including novel fabrics and dyes and finishes, along with materials for wiring and embellishments. Part Two discusses the role of seamless technology in intimate apparel production, covering lamination, moulding, and seamless knitting. Finally, Part Three reviews advances in design, fit, and performance.- Provides systematic and comprehensive coverage on key trends in intimate apparel technology- Presents chapters that follow a coherent sequence, beginning with advanced materials, then discussing new manufacturing techniques, and finishing with coverage of performance and fit- Focuses on the needs of the apparel industry, covering materials, manufacturing, and design aspects- Written by distinguished author and professor Winnie Yu who is the Director of the ACE Style Institute of Intimate Apparel at Hong Kong Polytechnic University

Part One

Intimate apparel material science

Outline

1. Advanced textiles for intimate apparel

2. Narrow fabric elastic tapes

3. Innovative accessories for intimate apparel

1

Advanced textiles for intimate apparel

J. Yip Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong, China

Abstract

New types of intimate apparel products are often produced from new types of fibers, yarns, and fabrics. Textile materials play an important and crucial role in the design of products that adequately satisfy the target customers. Innovations in intimate apparel are often inspired by market demand for comfort, special functions, and various attributes. Environmental sustainability is also increasingly one of the key issues considered. In this chapter the latest developments in fibers, yarns, fabrics, and finishing processes that are being used in intimate apparel are discussed.

Keywords

Advanced textiles; Moisture management; Performance and versatility; Sustainability

1.1. Fibers and yarns

Cotton, silk, rayon, nylon, polyester, and spandex are common types of fibers currently used in intimate apparel. However, new types of fibers offer new possibilities to intimate apparel designers. Their important properties include (1) performance and versatility, (2) moisture management and coolness, and (3) sustainability. Fibers and yarns that possess these properties are discussed in the following sections.

1.1.1. Performance and versatility

Intimate apparel products should be versatile; for instance, they should have easy-care properties, be light weight, be comfortable, provide freedom of movement, be durable, and even have antibacterial or antiodor properties. Major fiber manufacturers such as Nylstar, Invista, Toray, and Lenzing have launched different types of fibers that are versatile and suitable for use in intimate apparel.

1.1.1.1. Nylstar S.A.

The Meryl^® product line by Nylstar offers different types of polyamide microfibers for bodywear, sportswear, intimates, swimwear, and cosmetics. Four common types of fabrics offered by Meryl^® intimates include Nateo, Sublime, Satiné, and Elite.

Meryl^® Nateo is an air-textured polyamide yarn with a round cross section. It has easy-care properties, a natural look and feel, quick-drying properties, and resistance to abrasion (Meryl^® Nateo). Underwear made from Meryl^® Nateo may incorporate Meryl^® Skinlife gussets, which can provide antimicrobial protection to the wearer. The special handling and silky touch of Meryl^® Sublime is particularly good for intimate apparel (Fig. 1.1).

This fiber, made with very fine filaments, can offer multifilament comfort, freshness, lightness, a silky touch, and no pilling. Meryl^® Sublime provides a unique softness as well as ultra-breathability because it is a fully drawn yarn and its thickness is only 0.45 dtex/filament (Meryl^® Sublime). Meryl^® Satiné has a trilobal cross section designed to reflect light and give a shiny luster (Meryl^® Satiné). Meryl^® Elite is another option that can be spun into fine or superfine yarn (see Fig. 1.2). It is ultralight, smooth, naturally elastic, and durable, and has a high resistance to abrasion, thus making this microfiber favorable for use in the hosiery market (Meryl^® Elite).

Figure 1.1 Meryl Sublime microfibers. Adapted from Meryl^® Sublime. Available from: http://www.nylstar.com/brochures/Nylstar_Meryl_Sublime_2014.pdf [17 July 2015].

Figure 1.2 Properties of Meryl^® Elite microfilaments. Adapted from Nylstar, 2014. Meryl^® Elite. Available from: http://www.nylstar.com/brochures/Nylstar_Meryl_Elite_2014.pdf.

1.1.1.2. Invista

Invista offers Lycra^®, Coolmax^®, Tactel^®, and Corudura^® for spinning yarns with the necessary stretch properties that contribute to the wearer’s comfort. Intimate apparel with Lycra^® can provide a stretchable and form fit because of its shape retention properties (Varghese and Thilagavathi, 2014). In 2012 Invista developed the Lycra^® Xtra Fine fiber, with 33 dtex or less for knitted and woven fabric; the maximum fabric weight of knits is 120 g/m² and that of woven fabrics is 90 g/m² (Lycra Extra Fine Collection Fiber Branding Requirements, 2012).

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Table of contents

• Cover image
• Title page
• Table of Contents
• The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing
• Copyright
• List of contributors
• Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles
• Part One. Intimate apparel material science
• Part Two. Seamless technologies for intimate apparel
• Part Three. Scientific research on intimate apparel
• Index