I. Fashion Theology as Tradition
1 Judith Lynn Sebesta and Larissa Bonfante, eds., The World of Roman Costume (Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 2001); A. T. Croom, Roman Clothing and Fashion (Charleston, S.C.: Tempus, 2002); Liza Cleland, Mary Harlow, and Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones, The Clothed Body in the Ancient World (Oxford: Oxbow, 2005); Jonathan Edmondson and Allison Keith, eds., Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture (Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 2008); and Kelly Olson, Dress and the Roman Woman: Self-Presentation and Society (London: Routledge, 2008).
2 Lars Svendsen, Fashion: A Philosophy, trans. John Irons (London: Reaktion, 2006), 19â22.
3 Kristi Upson-Saia, Early Christian Dress: Gender, Virtue, and Authority (New York: Routledge, 2011), 33â58; Carly Daniel-Hughes, The Salvation of the Flesh in Tertullian of Carthage: Dressing for the Resurrection (New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2011), 15â44.
4 Matt 6:25 reads, âTherefore I tell you, do not worry about your life, what you will eat or drink; or about your body, what you will wear. Is not life more than food, and the body more than clothes?â (NIV).
5 Clement of Alexandria, Paedagogus, in Ante-Nicene Fathers, vol. 2, ed. Philip Schaff et al. (Peabody, Mass.: Hendrickson, 2004), 264.
6 âAs, then, in the fashioning of our clothes, we must keep clear of all strangeness, so in the use of them we must beware of extravagance. For neither is it seemly for the clothes to be above the knee . . . nor is it becoming for any part of a woman to be exposed.â Clement of Alexandria, Paedagogus, 266.
7 Ambrose, On the Duties of Clergy, in Nicene and Post-Nicene Fathers, vol. 10, ed. Philip Schaff et al. (Peabody, Mass.: Hendrickson, 2004), 15.
8 Aideen M. Hartney, âDedicated Followers of Fashion: John Chrysostom on Female Dress,â in Womenâs Dress in the Ancient Greek World, ed. Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones (London: Duckworth, 2002), 243â58.
9 John Chrysostom, Homilies on Hebrews, in Nicene and Post-Nicene Fathers, vol. 14, ed. Philip Schaff et al. (Peabody, Mass.: Hendrickson, 2004), 496. Chrysostom also takes up dress in his homily on 1 Timothy 2:8-10, wherein he states, âPaul discourses much of dress and much of modesty. And if he would remove those things which are only the indications of wealth, as gold, and pearls, and costly array; how much more those things which imply studied ornament, as painting, coloring the eyes, a mincing gait, the affected voice, a languishing and wanton look; the exquisite care in putting on the cloak and bodice, the nicely wrought girdle, and the closely-fitting shoes?â John Chrysostom, Homilies on Timothy, in Nicene and Post-Nicene Fathers, vol. 13, ed. Philip Schaff et al. (Peabody, Mass.: Hendrickson, 2004), 433. For Chrysostomâs critique of the making and wearing of luxury clothing items, see John Chrysostom, The Gospel of St. Matthew, in Nicene and Post-Nicene Fathers, vol. 10, ed. Philip Schaff et al. (Peabody, Mass.: Hendrickson, 2004), 307â9.
10 Jerome, for example, also had a number of warnings about women guilty of âcramming their wardrobes with dresses, changing their gowns from day to dayâ and men who âthink of nothing but their dress; they use perfumes freely, and see that there are no creases in their leather shoes.â Jerome calls these ancient fashion slaves to trade in their fastidiousness for a less expensive, unadorned dress that is âneither too neat nor too slovenly.â Jerome, The Letters of St. Jerome in Nicene and Post-Nicene Fathers, vol. 6, ed. Philip Schaff et al. (Peabody, Mass.: Hendrickson, 2004), 29, 34, 36, 48, 254, 262, 263.
11 According to some, Tertullian is the most important Christian writer in the West before Augustine. See W. Le Saintâs âTertullian,â in New Catholic Encyclopedia, vol. 14, ed. the editorial staff at the Catholic University of America (New York: McGraw Hill, 1967), 1019.
12 Two notable exceptions include Alicia Batten, âThe Carthaginian Critiques of Adornment,â Journal of Early Christian History 1, no. 1 (2011): 3â21; and Daniel-Hughesâ previously cited monograph, Salvation of the Flesh.
13 âYou are the devilâs gateway: you are the unsealer of that forbidden tree: you are the first deserter of the divine law: you are she who persuaded him whom the devil was not valiant enough to attack. You destroyed so easily Godâs image, man. On account of your desertâthat is, deathâeven the Son of God had to die. And do you think about adorning yourself over and above your tunics of skin?â Tertullian, On the Apparel of Women I, in Ante-Nicene Fathers, vol. 4, ed. Philip Schaff et al. (Peabody, Mass.: Hendrickson, 2004), 14.
14 Simone de Beauvoirâs 1949 classic, Le deuxieme sexe (The Second Sex [New York: Knopf, 2010], 104), has directed generations of feminist scholars to this so-called gateway passage of Christian misogyny: George Tavard, Women in the Christian Tradition (Notre Dame: University of Notre Dame Press, 1973), 59.
15 Tertullian, On the Apparel of Women II, in Ante-Nicene Fathers, vol. 4, ed. Philip Schaff et al. (Peabody, Mass.: Hendrickson, 2004), 20â21.
16 Here Tertullian sounds a proto-Marxian note: âIt is only from their rarity and outlandishness that all these things possess their grace; in short, within their own native limits they are not held of so high worth.â Tertullian, On the Apparel of Women I, 17. Like Marx, Tertullian wanted to eliminate any subjective basis for the value of objects, ascertaining the purely ânaturalâ value of an object. However, Tertullian parts company with Marx on exactly what that objective value is. Whereas Marx identifies the ânaturalâ (objective) value of an object with the labor used to produce it, Tertullian identifies it with the intrinsic qualities and utilitarian value of the object (via divine creation) before labor is imposed on it. Karl Marx, Das Kapital: A Critique of Political Economy (Washington, D.C.: Regnery, 2012), 7.
17 Tertullian, On the Apparel of Women I, 17.
18 The church father Cyprian of Carthage (ca. 200â258) offers a similar logic. As Cyprian crudely reasons, herbs and shellfish do not naturally dye cloth, stones set in gold are not native to creation, and we do not find pearls lined up like necklaces along the beach. See Cyprian, On the Dress of Virgins, in Ante-Nicene Fathers, vol. 5, ed. Philip Schaff et al. (Peabody, Mass.: Hendrickson, 2004), 430â37.
19 Tertullian, On the Ap...