In succession with Blacksmith's Craft and Wrought Ironwork, Decorative Ironwork is a facsimile edition of the original 1963 instruction manual for intermediate to advanced blacksmiths. By applying all previous techniques learned to forge and form the designs of 7 decorative iron grilles, each detailed lesson is intended to be closely studied in conjunction with one another. With step-by-step photography, helpful diagrams, and a convenient conversion chart, gain a deeper understanding of the craft with this final textbook. Once completed and mastered, this manual will arm you with vital skills that are applicable to the entire field of decorative ironwork.

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- English
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Design 1
A feature of this design is the exploitation of contrasting bar sections. The use of rectangular section for one series of bars, and a round section for the other series, not only appeals to the eye, but also simplifies the making of the apertures in the flat bars through which the round bars pass.
The method employed eliminates the hot punching, drifting and dressing associated with intersecting bar work, and consequently saves time.
The lack of ability to fire weld is no handicap in the construction of this particular grille as the simple leaf forms are not made separately and attached, but are developed from the parent bar by methods which have, particularly since the 18th century, largely fallen into disuse in this country.
It will be appreciated that this design may be carried out in a wide range of bar sizes. Because the use of the chisel gives rise to a limited amount of drawing of the metal, and since the length of slit required to form an eye of given size must be determined, definite bar sizes are quoted and dimensions given. These figures are used solely for the purpose of rendering technical principles clear, and apply to 1½” × ¼” and ½” round bar.
The frame size of this particular example is 3' 9” × 2' 10½” and is made from 1” × ½” bar.
![]() | DESIGN 1 |
Fig 1 The flat bar is marked out with chisel and centre punch. The drawing, Fig. 16 on page, gives the measurements for setting out when using 1½” × ¼” bar.
This marking, besides being accurate must be sufficiently indented to be seen clearly when the metal has been heated for slitting and cutting operation.
Fig 2 A slit is cut in the hot metal with a chisel 15/16” wide, this being the slit necessary for the formation of an eye through which ½” round bar will pass.
A cutting plate, preferably of copper, is used to protect the chisel edge from the hardened anvil face.
Fig 3 Using a ½” top fuller in conjunction with 1” bottom swage, one half of the eye is formed.
A bottom swage of ample depth must be used if pinching-in the bottom of the tool and consequent malformation of the shape is to be avoided.
The bar is turned over and the other half eye is formed.
Assuming that no unnecessary violence has been used, it will be found in practice that no appreciable alteration occurs in the distance between centres, which in the present case is 7½”, as shown in the diagram on page.
It is important to use a hand length of ½” round bar to checkthat eyes have been opened sufficiently to enable the longer round bars to pass through a series of eyes easily when the work is assembled.
Note: The setting of the eyes alternates. A scrutiny of the illustration of the finished grille will make this point clear.
Fig 4 A curved chisel is used to release the tip of the spur, and the straight cut is continued with a sharp hot-set.
It is here, in this operation, that a slight lengthening can occur. To minimise this effect, the hot-set must be thin and a good edge must be maintained.
From tip to butt the spur must be released progressively with well-controlled blows of a moderate weight.
In order that the natural chamfer made by the hot-set may appear uniformly on the face side of the work, all cutting must be done from one side only.
From time to time work must be checked to ensure that the measurements between the centres of the eyes is uniform.

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4
Fig 5 The reason for the next step may not be obvious at this stage. It will suffice to state here that on it depends the correct formation and setting of the spurs. By carefully following the instructions for the succeeding operations the reason for this first step will become apparent.
The spur is given a short 90º twist bringing its outside edge uppermost in relation to the face side of the bar. In order to facilitate this operation the spur is first pulled out at a convenient angle.
Fig 6 The 90º short twist is made and this brings the curve of the spur tip into a position which assists when further curving the feature as forging proceeds.
The bar is gripped in the vice with the eye inserted a short distance within the jaws. This ensures stability and prevents distortion.
Fig 7 Using a curved faced hammer the twist is dressed to blend with an even flow into the main bar. If necessary the heat should be localised by controlled quenching to avoid distortion occurring either in the eye or the centre stem.
Fig 8 The twisted root of the spur is dressed on two sides roughly at right angles to one another in order to produce a uniform section. As it is clearly impossible to continue on the anvil bick, a stake with an acute angled flat is brought into use.
Fig 9 The spur is now curved over the bick, care being taken to avoid continuing this operation too far, as further curving takes place naturally during the stages to follow.
It is also convenient at this point to refine the shape of the spur tip a little, bearing in mind that a few light blows will suffice, as any tendency to depart from the le...
Table of contents
- Cover
- Title
- Copyright
- Contents
- Introduction
- Design 1
- Design 2
- Design 3
- Design 4
- Design 5
- Design 6
- Design 7
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