Patisserie

Leonard J Hanneman

• Publisher: Routledge
• Year: 2009
• Print ISBN: 9780750669283
• eBook ISBN: 9781136374555
• Topic: Business
• Subtopic: Hospitality, Travel & Tourism Industry
• Index: Business

This classic book, widely known and used by patissiers is a professional text on the art of patisserie. In the twenty years that Patisserie has been published there have been great changes in almost every aspect of this art, and the author has thoroughly updated this new edition to take account of these. Updated in paperback format the revised edition of this classic text is now even more affordable, practical and enjoyable. Complete with the original, beautiful seventy-three colour photographs, each shows clearly how the finished product should be presented, and a wide range of diagrams demonstrate the more complex processes. New dishes have been added, for example, pavlova, sticky toffee pudding, blinis, pasta dough, frangipan apple, cheesecake, and sugar balls, while some of the existing ones have been amended or replaced. Additional information on fruits, and on using eggs or egg substitutes in patisserie have been included. Of special interest are the chapters on equipment, commodities, and hygiene, which include the provisions of the Food Hygiene (Amended) Regulations 1990, as far as they affect the patisserie section of the catering industry.

1	Patisserie equipment, hygiene and ingredients

Equipment (Figures 1, 2 and 3)

It is a legal requirement that equipment with which food comes into contact or is liable to come into contact is kept clean and kept in such good order, repair and condition to enable it to be effectively cleaned. Equipment must be non-absorbent. In the past, a lot of the equipment and utensils used by the patissier were constructed of wood. These should now be replaced with non-absorbent polypropylene or stainless steel alternatives.

A whole range of equipment is used by the patissier – from an oven to a patty pan – but some items merit special attention as follows.

Bain-marie

When in use, the main precaution is to see that the pan is never allowed to burn dry. When not in use, the bain-marie should be emptied, cleaned inside and out, washed in hot detergent water, then rinsed and dried.

Baking sheets

These are made of either aluminium or steel.

Aluminium

This has the advantage of being light in weight, rustless, and able to conduct heat more quickly. Its main disadvantage is that it is a softer metal and is, therefore, not so durable. It must, therefore, be treated with care. When scraping off food soils never use a steel scraper as this will scratch the surface and may remove some of the metal. The best method of cleaning is to use water with a mild disinfectant. If a scraper has to be employed, use either a celluloid or nylon one.

Steel

Although this will stand up to more harsh treatment, its obvious disadvantage is its liability to rust. If water is used to wash the tin, always thoroughly dry afterwards. Often the cause of rust can be traced back to buns being left on the tin to cool. When this happens, the steam trapped between the tin and the bun condenses to water and, if left, rusts away that part of the tin under the bun.

Of whatever metal the baking sheet is made, make sure that the corners are really well cleaned. It is here that the particles of food accumulate and if left will bake onto the surface of the tin to leave a soil which is difficult to remove. When cleaning baking tins, concentrate on the corners and the centre will clean itself!

1 Rubber moulds for fondant centres

2 Marzipan and pastillage flower cutters

3 Copper boiling saucepan

4 Bomb mould

5 Pouding souffle moulds

6 Charlotte mould

7 Savarin mould

8 Danish mould

9 Ravioli roller

10 Petits florentine chocolate moulds

11 Croissant cutter

12 Seahorse fleuron cutter

13 Danish pastry cutter

14 Ribbed roller

15 Assorted cutters

16 Crimping tool

17 Petits torten moulds

18 Patterned roller

19 Petit torte mould

20 Basket roller

21 Tracy cutter

22 Roller docker

23 Small petits fours cutters

24 Aspic cutters

25 Sugar boiling thermometers

26 Dough thermometers

27 Saccharometers

28 Trellis cutter

29 Chocolate dipping forks

Figure 1 Equipment

1 Torten ring

2 Flan ring

3 Torten rings

4 Boiling sugar moulds

5 Pate croûte mould

6 Blowtorch

7 Torten ring

8 Tuille stencil

9 Glace bisquit mould

10 Torten mould for slices

11 Rabbit stencil

12 Metal template

13 Pie mould

14 Stencil for japs

15 Savoury pie crimper

16 French torten stencils

Figure 2 Equipment

Brushes

These need washing and thoroughly drying at regular intervals. If left, there is a build up of food particles adhering to the bristles which quickly reduces the efficiency of the brushes. This is particularly prevalent with board brushes used for brushing such commodities as flour which, when wet, forms a tenacious paste which dries hard on the bristle.

Cake machines and attachments

These should be regularly serviced and lubricated to ensure freedom from breakdown. One of the most annoying faults with these machines is the leakage of oil which tends to drip into the mixing. If this happens when sponges or meringues are being made, they could be completely ruined. Cleaning of machines after each use is desirable but, if moving parts like the blade of a mincer are involved, thorough drying is essential to prevent rust formation. Traces of mixings left on the handles, etc. of the machine are not only unhygienic but can contaminate other mixings. It is important that these mixers should not be overloaded. This can easily happen by allowing them to mix stiff pastes and doughs. It is better to mix these by hand if in doubt.

Bowls, whisks, beaters, etc. should always be washed in very hot water to eliminate traces of grease which can have disastrous consequences to mixes such as meringues and sponges.

Cloths (muslin, jelly bags, and piping bags)

These should be regularly laundered and sterilized. Often pastry is left wrapped in a damp cloth. It should be remembered that such practice increases the risk of attack by mould and could infect the goods with this micro-organism and others.

Cutters

Pastry cutters are usually very poorly cared for. They are comparatively fragile utensils and, with misuse, quickly lose their shape. Always ensure that cutters are put away in their boxes clean and dry. If cutters are replaced in their boxes without proper cleaning, the food particles adhering can go bad without anyone noticing. When cleaning, special attention should be given to the rim where food particles can easily become lodged. If the cutters are washed, make sure that they are really well dried out before replacing in their boxes; otherwise rust will soon be apparent.

Cutting boards

A variety of non-absorbent hygienic cutting boards are now available, the majority of which can be obtained in different colours to minimize cross-contamination and the picking up of odours, for example fruit and chocolate will readily pick up the odour of onions.

Docker

This is a wooden disc with protruding points used to make a number of small holes in pastry. Roller dockers are now available which greatly speeds up this operation. When cleaning it, it is essential to remove any food soil from the points.

Dredgers

These are used for giving a light dusting of flour, icing sugar, etc. Since the same kind of dredger is used for these materials, it is important to have some means of identification; otherwise the flour could be mistaken for sugar and vice versa. Regular cleaning is again recommended with a regular change of contents.

Drying cabinet

This is a useful piece of equipment for keeping goods such as pulled and blown sugar pieces, nougat, etc., in perfect condition. It consists of an airtight, dust-proof cabinet on the base of which provision is made for a tray containing silica gel. This will absorb moisture in the cabinet, which if left would ruin such sugar goods by gradually reducing the sugar to syrup. The silica gel is removed and heated at regular intervals to evaporate the moisture collected and to revert the gel to its dry state before returning it to the cabinet. The silica gel is usually sold with a blue test paper which turns red when the gel needs reheating.

Showpieces made from boiled sugar w...

Table of contents

• Front Cover
• Half Title
• Dedication
• Title Page
• Copyright
• Contents
• Preface to the Second Edition
• Preface to the First Edition
• Acknowledgements
• 1 Patisserie equipment, hygiene and ingredients
• 2 Short pastries, flans and tarts
• 3 Puff pastries
• 4 Sponge goods
• 5 Meringue goods
• 6 Cakes
• 7 Chou pastries
• 8 Torten and gâteaux
• 9 Petits fours sees
• 10 Petits fours glacés
• 11 Afternoon tea fancies
• 12 Savoury goods
• 13 Fermented goods
• 14 Sweet sauces
• 15 Bavarois and jelly sweets
• 16 Fruit and other sweets
• 17 Puddings
• 18 Chocolate work
• 19 Almond and other pastes
• 20 Sugar work
• 21 Preserves, creams and icings
• 22 Ices
• Glossary of patisserie terms
• Temperature conversion table
• Index