Part One
The Advance to Aranjuez
DURING THE Summer of 1812 Wellington with the bulk of the Anglo-Portugese army had been operating about Salamanca, leaving Lt-General Sir Rowland Hill with a detached force (of which Captain S. Maxwellâs 9-Pounder Brigade formed part) to hold the Tagus valley. On 22nd July Wellington decisively defeated Marmont at Salamanca and drove the disorganised French army of Portugal northwards beyond Valladolid. King Joseph, alarmed for the safety of his capital, ordered Soult to raise the siege of Cadiz, evacuate Andalucia and retire to Toledo.
Wellington then marched on Madrid which he entered on 12th August without opposition from King Joseph, who retired to Valencia. As soon as it was evident that Soult was in fact evacuating Andalucia, Wellington ordered Hillâs detached force to move forward to the area south of Madrid, while he himself with the main army moved northwards towards Valladolid to deal with Clausel, who had replaced Marmont in command of the French army of Portugal. The advance of General Sir Rowland Hill's force is described in the first part of Captain Webberâs Journal.
Journal of a March with Lt-General Sir Rowland Hillâs Corps from Zafra in Spain Commencing August 28th 1812
ZAFRA TO DON BENITO
August 28
AT 3 THIS morning we marched right in front to Bienvenida, A distant 4 leagues. The first two miles of the road as far as [Puebla de] Sancho Parez almost too bad for four-wheeled carriages. However, ours stood the shaking well and no delay occurred. Afterwards we entered an open good road leading through a plain, which continued all the way. At 9 we arrived, formed our park near a convent, picketed our horses and put our sick men into the chapel.
At the same hour the Brigades from Los Santos and Almendral arrived. The latter had moved the night before to some cantonment in the neighbourhood of Los Santos. These were preceded by a few Dragoons of the Royals, and the whole took up their ground on a hill to the right of the town under the shade of an olive plantation.
I dined with Sir Rowland Hill, who of course with his Staff had the best house in the place. After an excellent dinner and the best of wines - Madeira, Port and Claret - I took leave.
At dinner the General received dispatches from some Spaniard in Seville giving intelligence of Col Kempâs having taken a fort with some magazines on the road to that place and that he was marching direct for it and expected to enter in a day or two - a Captain of Artillery was killed in this affair with the enemy and Col Downie 1 who was in command of the Corps of Spanish cavalry has been defeated, his whole Corps killed, taken or dispersed and himself badly wounded and a prisoner.
Some time ago Soult, in his dispatch to Joseph Buonaparte mentioned in an insignificant manner that he met some âSpanish Comediansâ (meaning the cavalry alluded to) and not knowing what to make of them, sent his grenadiers to send them about their business, on which he said they fled like sheep. Several of our officers have seen them and agree with Soult that they had the appearance of a party of strolling players, from the singularity of their dress.
Maxwell 2 and myself passed the night in the orchestra of the chapel. The other officers of the Brigade had a better place in a room behind the altar. There is nothing worth notice in Bienvenida except the tower of the church, the architecture of which is very peculiar. The town is badly supplied with water and the little to be found in the tanks at this season is unwholesome.
August 29
At half past three this morning we formed close column, right in front, on the road to Llerena and at 4 marched, preceded by a Squadron of the Royals. The road was good and level. On the right is a ridge of hills which extend for a considerable distance towards Seville. Our course is to the eastward and we are at present at a loss to imagine where we are going. After a march of three leagues we reached Llerena, a large town which afforded quarters for us all. Our houses were in a convent and the men in houses near it. The French had only left the place the day before.
I walked about the town but saw nothing remarkable except the Cathedral, 3 the interior of which is handsomely ornamented and contains an excellent organ. I dined with Captain Egerton of the 34th Regiment and in the evening walked with him into the grand square, the usual promenade for people of all classes.
August 30
At 4 we were joined by several squadrons of Cavalry, which had been encamped near the town during the night, and marched for Burguillos [?] preceded by them and the 3rd Regt or Buffs. As information had arrived that part of the enemyâs rearguard occupied ground nearby we expected to see something of them, but did not.
Our march was over level ground, well cultivated in several spots. At 2.5 leagues from Llerena we arrived at Ahillones, a small village half a league from Berlanga, and one Brigade of Infantry and ours of Artillery were halted there. The others with the Cavalry went on to the latter place. We got our men and horses under cover, though they were much crowded. Nothing particular at Ahillones.
August 31
At 4 we marched for Maguilla, out of our direction to enable the rear of the Corps to enter Ahillones. The distance 2 leagues by a good road through cornfields and the country open and level. We passed through Maguilla and encamped a mile and a half the other side in a valley under the shade of several olive trees. In the evening the Infantry, which had marched the day before to Berlanga joined us, but the Cavalry had been ordered to their different Regiments which were on our right, a small force of the enemy being in that direction.
September 1
At 4 we marched for Campillo de Llerena, 4 leagues distant, by a very bad road, in some parts almost impassable. The Infantry went another way, a league shorter but only passable for them. The country more hilly and enclosed and several mountains were seen at a distance in this dayâs march. We encamped at Campillo de Llerena, or rather in some fields near it. Headquarters were established there and the staff occupied all the houses. Water very scarce, muddy and bad.
September 2
At half past three marched for Zalamea [de la Serena] by a very bad road, 4.5 leagues distant. That taken by the Infantry 3.5 but merely a goat walk and I understand made the march more fatiguing than it would have been by our road. We had good quarters in Zalamea, which is a large village. The Portuguese however were obliged to encamp on some ground near it - the bells were ringing and continued doing so for the whole day. Headquarters at this place.
September 3
At 4 we marched for Quintana de la Serena, 2 leagues - the Portuguese to Castuera, 3 leagues at which our Headquarters were to be this day. We came through a wood of olives and other trees by a good road and were able to get quarters for all our men. The horses were picketed in a garden. The town is well supplied with good water and plenty of forage is to be found in the neighbourhood.
The approach to the village is very pretty and indeed the village itself is so when seen from the country within a mile of it on either side. Vineyards, olive groves and fruit gardens surround it. The houses are bad and not one pretty woman is to be seen. All are ugly and of the lowest class. Here and at Zalamea the people have suffered from the French, but not so much as those of other places we passed through.
Nothing particular to be seen here. The inside of the church is handsome but their manner of ornamenting their places of worship is too gaudy and frivolous. Images of the Virgin Mary in full size are placed in temples and dressed like dolls.
September 4
No orders for marching, which we know not how to account for unless Gen Hill is waiting for Lord Wellingtonâs further directions.
A Spanish Sergeant, deserter from the French army, came in today and gave information that Soult is retiring in the greatest haste, abandoning his sick, destroying most of his carriages and marching for Valencia. His army, very sickly and much dispersed. If half this is true it is enough. The Spaniards positively assure us that our English force is in Cordoba - if so it must be Col Skerretâs, who may have followed the rear of Soultâs army.
They say also that the siege of Cadiz is certainly raised and that Gen Maitland has defeated the French at Valencia with his army which he took from Sicily. Supposing all this is true, the general opinion in this place is that Soult will be so completely trapped that he must surrender at discretion in a short time.
September 5
A report was prevalent this day that Lord Wellington is within 20 leagues from us. If so, and we march to meet him we may form a junction in 3 days. Things look well and we shall soon want employment if they succeed as their prospects give reason to hope.
As yet no orders for marching and we remain rather crowded. The French levied contributions on this village as on all others, and the mistress of the house in which Maxwell and myself are, tells us that because she refused to pay her share, they tied her hands behind her and laid her on her bed until she consented.
Col Bunbury 4 of the Buffs called on us and invited us to dine with him this afternoon. We went and in the evening Col Byngâs Brigade Major called to inform Maxwell that we are to march tomorrow morning at any hour Maxwell thinks proper, for Don Benito. Col Byngâs Brigade is to march for that place at 2, and therefore it is fixed we are to move at half past one oâclock. The distance 5 leagues and the direction to the Northward. Headquarters will move in the morning also from Castuera to Villanueva de la Serena, 1 league East of Don Benito.
September 6
At half past one, according to orders, we marched. The first part of the road good, but about half way it was so bad and rocky that being dark it was impossible to choose the best part of it, and one of the ammunition wagons upset. Luckily no damage was done except to the perch which was split near the eye bolt. The country open till within 6 miles of this place when we passed between two hills or mountains, the top of one covered by a cloud. After this a most delightful view presented itself - an extensive plain of marsh, 2 leagues square, bounded on the North by the Guadiana river and the mountains on the other side; in other directions by hills forming a continued chain.
To the North West is seen the town and castle of Medellin built on this side of the Guadiana, the former on the plain, the latter on a very high rock, looking over the town and commanding it. To the Northward we saw the tower of the church of Benito and to the Eastward on a hill to our right is an old castle in ruins. To the North East is also seen the tower of the church of Villanueva.
The river is not seen, but previous to my being informed of its being near, or that we were likely to see it, I remember that I thought there must be a river at the base of the mountains in our front from the sudden change in the face of the country. These mountains extend as far as the eye can reach and have a grand appearance particularly at sunrise - the time we saw them first. The clouds of night and the heavy fogs were dispersing and every succeeding minute opening to our view some hill still higher than the one we had been just admiring. The ground we were passing over is as level as a bowling green, and on each side of the road are melon gardens, covering I suppose a space of 200 acres.
The poor people subsist on the fruit in great measure when in season and it must be very wholesome. The men relish it very much and it requires the greatest attention on the part of the officers to see the gardens are not stripped; for if a column of six or seven thousand passes and every man is allowed to help himself, farewell to the poor labourerâs expectation. On our entering the town, the first Brigade, 5 which had been in it for two days, was exercising. It being a public day with the inhabitants, a great many were assembled to see it.
This town, which is said to be the largest in Spanish Estremadura, is not at all striking in appearance. The church and its tower with the several turrets on the body are the only objects worth notice. We arrived at half past eight and found cantonments for the men and quarters for ourselves ready. The horses are under cover also. I have a good billet supplied with water.
This day the members of the new constitution (formed in consequence of a decree by the Cortes some time ago) began to exercise their function and to transact public business, and from the gratifying intelligence received from all quarters the public celebrate it in the most particular manner. 6 High Mass is performing in the church. The houses are to be illuminated and fairs are to be held every day this week. Every Spaniard is dressed in his best and the women seem to vie with each other in adorning themselves.
This does not convey any idea of the wretched state of the country as represented in the English newspapers, but this town has by some means escaped the ravages of the enemy and the houses are in good order. Perhaps this leniency may be attributed to the easy consent of the inhabitants to comply with the demands they everywhere impose. The French will do no mischief when this is the case, but how despicable is that man who will quietly submit to pay a sum perhaps as large as the value of his house merely to insure the safety of it, when at the same time he is giving shelter and assistance to the enemies of his country.
I am glad to observe this has not happened in many towns which I have been in and the French have seldom found anything but the bare walls, unless by their rapid movements they have taken the inhabitants by surprise, or unless by their artful intrigues they have duped them with the idea of being spared from contribution. This has been several times practised with success and perhaps the enemy have been as conciliatory as possible till the eve of the move when they have robbed them of everything and even taken the apparel from their persons: besides breaking their glasses, crockery and everything that did not escape their notice.
September 7
The whole Division still in cantonments and no movements have been made by any part of the troops I believe since we arrived here. Report says that Soult is at Cordoba and has been reinforced by Suchet and that this latter general has been obliged to evacuate Valencia in consequence of his defeat by General Maitland.
The Spaniards say also that Ballesteros 7 has taken the greater part of the army which besieged Cadiz, or at all events that he has intercepted them and cut off their retreat. I fear good news is magnified as usual and that it now comes too quick to be true, though it is well known everything is going on more successfully than the most sanguine could have expected.
Another piece of news is that money is on the road and expected here today, which the army is much in want of, being 5 months in arrears and we of course can get nothing but our rations.
I went this evening to Headquarters, Villanueva, passing through vineyards, melon gardens and fig groves. The grapes have the finest flavour of any I have tasted. The Commissary, Mr Routh had invited all the gentle Spanish families in the place to a Ball and they gave an entertainment beforeh...