Of all the trips ever taken over the centuries, Lutherâs has often been regarded as one of the most significant. It might almost be described as one of those pivotal journeys that changed not only the traveler but the world thereafter, akin to Christopher Columbusâs trip westward or Charles Darwinâs voyage on the HMS Beagle. It would be a pity, therefore, to lose sight of the larger significance of this momentous trip because the readerâs attention has become distracted by smaller and controverted issues, important as these may be. I shall try to review the relevant scholarly considerations and arguments in the first part of this chapter, but more or less briefly, referring the reader who is interested in greater detail to the primary and secondary sources indicated in the notes so that the overarching plot of the story of Lutherâs trip to Rome remains relatively uncluttered.2
On the other hand, I shall resist telling this story in the categorical fashion in which it has sometimes been told not only in popular literature but also in serious historical studies.3 Vexed issues have all too often been confidently discussed as though they are quite settled, assumptions and unknown factors are not taken into full consideration, and the extensive scholarship devoted to the question (not always readily accessible, especially to the Germanless reader) remains largely unconsulted.4 In detailing Lutherâs travel experiences, sympathetic biographers have been as susceptible to the siren call of the historical imagination as unsympathetic ones. Luther is a larger-than-life figure who lends himself readily to legendary treatment, both positive and negative, and too many historians in the past have simply made up âentire scenes,â as Heinrich Böhmer complains, imagining where he must have gone in Rome and what he must have seen or even how he must have felt. Projecting themselves completely onto the young Luther, these scholars have found it difficult not to represent him anachronistically, âas though he must have duly walked around the eternal city with the eyes and interests of a German professor,â consulting his trusty Baedeker as he diligently made his way âthrough all the galleries, churches, and ruins.â5
The fact is that we know relatively little for certain about this trip, and it behooves the careful writer to use the subjunctive mood more often than the indicative when setting forth details about Lutherâs journey that are reasonable hypotheses but not established facts.6 In what follows, we shall focus less on what Luther might have seen or done on his way to and from Rome and in the city itself and more on what he said that he saw or did and, just as important, what the trip came to mean to him and to others thereafter.
âTo Rome and Back Againâ
Luther would have set out for Rome either from his monastery in Erfurt or from the newly founded university in Wittenberg.7 His location at the time of his departure depends on whether the trip began in the late fall of 1510, as Heinrich Böhmer argued in 1914 in his influential Luthers Romfahrt, or a year later. For many decades after his study appeared, Böhmerâs conclusions about the timing of the trip were widely accepted, and only in recent years have they begun to be seriously challenged. In 2011, Hans Schneider made a compelling case for a later date. According to Schneiderâs Martin Luthers Reise nach Româneu datiert und neu gedeutet, Luther arrived in Rome in the late fall of 1511.8
There are difficulties with both sets of dates. Luther himself is not always clear (or perhaps even sure) exactly what year it was that he went to Rome, contributing to the long-standing confusion on the subject.9 Near the end of his life, Luther seems to question his own memory of the date: âIt was in the year 1510 anno domini, if I remember correctly (ist mir recht), that I was in Rome.â10 Philipp Melanchthon, Lutherâs colleague at the University of Wittenberg, puts the trip a year later.11 One solution has been to posit more than one trip to Rome, although this seems most unlikely given the failure of Luther or any of his early biographers to mention such an important fact.12
What was Luther going to do in Rome? The usual explanation is that he was sent there in connection with a serious problem that had arisen within the Augustinian order in Germany at the time.13 The Augustinian monastery in Erfurt that Luther had joined in 1505 was one of many such houses in Germany, of which twenty-nine were reformed (sometimes called âobservantâ or ârenitentâ), with the remainder (âconventualsâ) following less rigorous practices. The vicar-general of the observant German Augustinians, Johann von Staupitz, was trying to forge a union between the two factions and had already personally traveled to Italy in search of a solution. His efforts, however, had been vigorously opposed by Lutherâs own house in Erfurt and six others, including those in Nuremberg and Kulmbach, whose members feared that such a union might lead to a relaxation of their own strict religiosity.
If Lutherâs trip to Rome took place in 1510/11, as Böhmer argued, the young friar in the monastery in Erfurt was most likely chosen by the resistant members of the congregatio reformata to represent their cause in Rome because it was thought that he supported their rigorist views and opposed Staupitzâs ideas about union.14 Given the rigid hierarchical structures of the Roman church and the strict expectations for obedience within the Augustinian order, if this was indeed an embassy undertaken to represent the case of the recalcitrant monasteries to the ecclesiastical authorities in Rome âwithout the express permission of their vicarâ (sine vicarii licentia speciali), the chances for its success were slim.15 In the register of the general of the Augustinian order, we find a statement dated to January 1511: âAccording to the laws, the Germans are forbidden to appeal.â16
If the journey was made a year later in 1511/12, it is more likely that Lutherânow in Wittenberg, where he was being groomed to become a professorâwould have been personally handpicked by Staupitz himself. Presumably, he considered his protĂ©gĂ© to be amenable to his efforts to unify the order. Perhaps he even hoped that Luther would be able to interact productively with the Augustinian authorities in Rome, consulting with them about the current situation in Germany and seeking their advice.
The date matters. If we opt for 1511/12, the need to explain how Luther could have so quickly switched sides upon returning from Rome in order to support Staupitz, as he did, is eliminated.17 Indeed, once he was back in Germany, Luther traveled with Staupitz to Cologneâquite amicably, it would seemâto attend a gathering of Augustinians there in May 1512. Lutherâs faculty position at the University of Wittenberg, Lectura in Biblia, Staupitzâs former chair, was approved on this occasion. Luther was awarded his doctoral degree on October 19 of the same year and three days later was âaccepted into the university senate.â18
Heiko Oberman argues that even if Luther did go to Rome in 1510 to represent Erfurtâs case against his superior, he was not being rebellious in so doing. Rather, he âhad dared to stand and be counted against the vicar generalâs policies, although this was the man who had offered him an academic future.â Oberman admits that Lutherâs sudden reversal of positions once he returned home might make him appear âservile and career-minded,â but he defends Lutherâs character as follows: âThroughout his life he was incorruptible and prepared to place principles before friendships. At such moments he counted neither his interests nor his inclinations.â19 But if Luther went to Rome at the behest of Staupitz and not in opposition to him, a year later than Böhmer and Oberman suppose, such a convoluted explanation becomes unnecessary.
In fact, it is not at all clear that Luther himself was ever especially concerned with restoring or strengthening his orderâs commitment to poverty, however seriously he may have taken specific ascetic directives for himself while in the monastery.20 Indeed, later on he could be very critical of his former fellow monks in Erfurt and their strict piety. He called them âlittle saintsâ and criticized their âselfish striving for saintliness without regard for the obedience they had pledged in their vows.â21 Nor, at this early stage in his life, was Luther necessarily as inclined to challenge ecclesiastical authority as later. Staupitz was beginning to assume an increasingly important position in Lutherâs life as a spiritual mentor and his âfather in Christ,â who not only helped advance his academic career but also led him to a fuller appreciation of the depth of Godâs mercy (as opposed to the severity of his justice).22 Perhaps it was not only finding a solution to the Augustinian orderâs problems that was on Staupitzâs mind when he decided to send Luther to Rome, if it was he who did so, but a fond hope that such a journey to such a holy place might be just the thing to help satisfy the troubled young manâs spiritual needsâor simply serve to distract him from his pressing theological worries.23
We can be quite sure that Luther did not travel alone. According to the Regula Augustini and the orderâs tradition, the friars were not supposed to go out of the monastery alone; they traveled in pairs on long journeys such as this, one walking behind the other, chanting and praying as they proceeded. Given his relative youth, Luther may well have been joined by a more senior litis procurator, responsible for arguing the case, for whom he would then have served as a junior âtravel companionâ (socius itinerarius).24 We do not know this latter detail for certain, because we are not sure of the identity of Lutherâs companion. Luther describes him simply as a âbrotherâ but never mentions his name. It could have been Anton Kress, a doctor of civil and canon law who served as provost of the church of Saint Lorenz in Nuremberg, where one of the Augustinian houses critical of Staupitz was located.25 Or if the journey took place in 1510/11, his companion might have been Johann Nathin, a former professor of Lutherâs at the University of Erfurt.26 Another possibility, which makes more sense if the visit is dated to 1511/12, is Jan van Mechelen, who had recently received his doctorate at the University of Wittenberg and who we know made a trip to Rome before February 1512.27
What itinerary might Luther and his unnamed companion have followed as they made their long trek to Rome?28 Whether they left from Erfurt or Wittenberg, they probably passed through Nuremberg, a âmost wealthy city and very well situatedâ although ânot well fortified,â whose impressive mechanical clock, the MĂ€nnleinlaufen (installed between 1506 and 1509 on the Frauenkirche), Luther later mentions.29 From there they may well have followed one of the routes that merchants regularly took as they made their way from Nuremberg to Milan. If so, the city of Ulm would not have been far out of their way. According to one of the Tischreden from 1538, Luther comments on the size of the cathedral there. He describes it as impressively large, like Saint Peterâs in Rome and the cathedral in Cologne, but not well suited acoustically for preaching.30 From Ulm they would likely have proceeded south via Memmingen to the Bodensee.31 They would have then gone on to the Swiss town of Chur as they made their way south across the Alps, most likely by way of either the Septimer or the SplĂŒgen Pass.32 Without offering specifics, Luther speaks of the âsafest pathâ (tutissima via) through the Swiss Alps in one of the Tischreden from 1539.33 He praises the Swiss people for their courage and candor (animosi, candidi), but it is not clear from the context of these remarks whether his judgments of them were based on firsthand experience or the reports of others.34 He also observes that when the Swiss men were not fighting, they did the milking and made cheese, activities usually considered to be womenâs work.35
From Switzerland, Luther and his companion would have made their way into Italy, very likely through the strategically located town of Chiavenna and then down along the west side of Lake Como via Gravedona to Como itself.36 In each of these last two towns, there was an observant Augustinian monastery where Luther and his companion could have stayed.37 From Como they would have then proceeded to nearby Milan. In this city, Luther remembers that he was not allowed to say Mass, since he and his companion were unfamiliar with the Ambrosian rite, in which âthe canon of the Mass, the elevation of the host, and the exchange of the Dominus vobiscum with the peopleâ were omitted: âWhen I, Martin Luther, along with my brother, wanted to celebrate Mass there, I was prevented from doing so b...