Everything Worthy of Observation

The 1826 New York State Travel Journal of Alexander Stewart Scott

Paul G. Schneider, Paul G. Schneider Jr.

• Publisher: Excelsior Editions
• Year: 2019
• Print ISBN: 9781438475165, 9781438475158
• eBook ISBN: 9781438475172
• Topic: History
• Subtopic: North American History
• Index: History

Finalist for the 2019 Foreword INDIES Book of the Year Award in the History category In the pre-dawn of August 2, 1826, Alexander Stewart Scott stepped aboard the steamboat Chambly in Quebec City, Canada. He was beginning a journey that not only took him across New York State but also ultimately changed his view of America and her people. A keen observer, the twenty-one-year-old meticulously recorded his travel experiences, observations about the people he encountered, impressions of things he saw, and reactions to events he witnessed. This firsthand account immerses the reader in the world of early-nineteenth-century life in both New York and Lower Canada. Whether enduring the choking dust raised by a stagecoach, the frustration and delays caused by bad roads, or the wonders and occasional dangers of packet boat travel on the newly completed Erie Canal, all are vividly brought to life by Scott's pen. This journal also offers a unique blend of travel and domestic insights. With close family members living in both St. John's, Quebec, Canada, and Palmyra, New York, his travels were supplemented by long stays in these communities, offering readers comparative glimpses into the daily lives and activities in both countries. Gregarious, funny, and inquisitive, Scott missed nothing of what he thought worthy of observation.

THE 1826 NEW YORK STATE
TRAVEL JOURNAL
OF ALEXANDER STEWART SCOTT

Preface

In November 1826, after returning to Canada from his lengthy journey through New York State, Scott jotted down a preface to his written account of the trip. It is only appropriate that he introduce his journal in his own words.

Preface!

Gentle, or Courteous Reader! (which ever of these Titles may please thee most).

As this journal or Diary, (by seafaring Men yclept1 a “Log Book”), was never intended for more than the perusal of two or three Friends and Relations, and by no means expected to meet the eye of a Critic, or of a would be Critic, the Author (!) hopes that it will be perused with all due indulgence to the many faults which it no doubt contains.

For the great unknown

(signed) Jean Bte Malars habal-baz2
Editor &c.

November 1826

Chapter One

“Left Quebec at 2 o’clock this morning …”

With the new day of August 2, 1826, only two hours old, Alexander Stewart Scott leaves his home in the city of Quebec, Canada, for a trip that will last over three months and take him through the heart of New York State. As he makes his way, first west to Montreal, then south to St. John’s (now called Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu), Quebec, Canada, he stays with family members before beginning his journey by steamboat down Lakes Champlain and George and by coach from Caldwell Village (now called Lake George Village) to Schenectady.

Wednesday, August 2nd

Left Quebec at 2 o’clock this morning, in the Steam Boat Chambly, for Montreal — about 30 Cabin Passengers on board — principally Americans, and a number of settlers for the upper Country.1

Thursday, August 3rd

Getting on — passed 3 Rivers and the other usual stopping places, — very dull all the way up — have only a couple of (not very interesting) Books with me.2

Friday, August 4th

Arrived at Montreal this morning at ½ past 3 o’clock — went ashore at 5 — had some difficulty to find out my Br. [Brother] James’ Lodgings — saw Harry, and called on Mr. O’Callaghan at the M. [Montreal] Genl. Hospital — took up my abode with James, and Kept the House for the most part of the day.3

Saturday, August 5th

Wandered about Town with James for the most part of the morning — saw the new French Catholic Church4 — and left a card & a Letter of Introduction to a Mr. Fremont (from Mr. Burroughs).5 Went to the Theatre in the evening with O’Callaghan, and saw the far favored Kean, as Sir Edward Mortimer in the play of “The Iron Chest.”6 Certainly as far as I am able to judge, a most able Performer — but must confess that (at least in this character) he fell much short of the high flown expectations I had formed of him, from the almost unqualified praise lavished on him by every person of my acquaintance in Montreal (not a few) who had seen him — am sorry did not arrive in time to see him in Othello, which I would conceive to be a piece infinitely more calculated for a proper display of his talent. A good number of Ladies & Gentm. [Gentlemen] from Quebec in the House — some of whom I knew.

Sunday, August 6th

Passed the whole of to-day at home, my Br. Harry called and kept me company — rather lonely towards the evening — dressed, — but prevented from going out by Rain, which for about an hour fell in torrents — James went to spend the Evening at McCords — did not go myself although invited — went to Bed early, after drinking a glass of good Punch.7

Monday, August 7th

Rose late — called on O’Callaghan, and about 11 AM went with James to Court (K.B.)8 to observe the proceedings at the Enquête sittings9 — with a very few exceptions, I think the system of doing law business generally far superior in Quebec — a great deal of noise and confusion in the Court Hall — where all the Enq. [Enquêtes] are taken — went again to the Theatre this evening where Kean appeared as Sir Giles Overreach in “a New Way to pay old Debts”10 — much better pleased with him in that character — good scenery — a great number of Ladies in the dress Circle (where I was) can’t say the L. [ladies] of Montreal are much to my taste, either as it regards personal attractions, or manners — but have not the pleasure of knowing many of them — the young Men, generally speaking, either real or imitation Bucks11 — far however from being of the first water12 — what I have heard said of the Inhabitants of M. is I think (at least partly) true, i.e. that they are stiff, unsocial, and much given to useless Ceremony, even in their intercourse with one another.

Map 1.1. Detail of the region around St. John’s and Montreal, Quebec, Canada, annotated to show the variety of transport and the route Scott took at the start and the end of his journey to New York State. The original is “Map 15, St. John’s / Montreal, Canada,” from [Theodore Dwight], The Northern Traveller: Containing the Routes to Niagara, Quebec, and The Springs, with Descriptions of the Principal Scenes, and Useful Hints to Strangers (New York: Wilder & Campbell, 1825). Courtesy of the New York State Library, Manuscripts and Special Collections.

Tuesday, August 8th

Rose early, and called on several persons on business — saw my Br. Harry and at 10 AM set off for Laprairie in the Steam Ferry Boat — a very strong current in this part of the Course River13 — arrived at L. [La Prairie] about mid-day where I saw the Revd. [Reverend] Mr. Baldwyn, Pastor of St. Johns,14 and a Mrs. McCallum, on their way to Montreal — had a long talk with the Revd. — started with the Stage for St. J. [Saint John’s15] which we reached at 4 PM — a good carriage — but rather rough Roads — found my Family all well, and intend staying with them for a few days previous to my departure for the States, where I will probably remain for 3 or 4 weeks.

Wednesday, August 9th

Very warm, and but few inducements to stir out — passed the best part of the day in reading — and the pleasant company of my Mother & Sister16 — introduced by the latter to her Friend Miss Baldwyn (Daughter of the Gentleman I met at Laprairie) a young Lady of pleasant, but rather reserved manners.17

Thursday, August 10th

Walked out with my Father18 towards the Garrison,19 and spent an hour with great pleasure with him — towards the afternoon my Br. Harry arrived to spend his Birth Day with us — passed a delightful evening at home — sweet to recall old scenes to recollection — felt completely happy.

Friday, August 11th

After Breakfast Harry and I went a canoeing — with some trouble got a small mast & Sail fixed up, and in cruizing [cruising] about got through the Forenoon very happily — read the most part of the afternoon, and in the evening after Tea we all went out together for a walk — early to Bed.

Saturday, August 12th

Nothing particular to observe — spent my time much the same as yesterday — purpose [propose] to start by the St. Bt. [steamboat] Congress on Monday Morning for Whitehall on my way to the Upper Country.20

Sunday, August 13th

Excessively warm, went to Church in the morning with all the Family, to hear the Revd. Mr. Baldwin21 — a very neat, well finished off [illegible word crossed out] Building, but by no means crowded to excess — my Mother taken with a sudden fit of sickness — (no service in the afternoon) — Miss Baldwyn called in the evening and took Tea with us en famille22 — and afterwards joined us all in a walk — really a very pleasant, sensible Girl, & improves wonderfully upon acquaintance — took a Berth on board of the Congress, & saw Miss B. home.

Monday, August 14th

Rose this morning at ½ past 4 — packed up my things — went out to bathe, accompanied by Harry — and about 8 AM (after having breakfasted,) left St. Johns in the St. Bt.23 — every appearance of favorable Weather — passed the Isle aux Noix24 about 11 o’clock — about 1 PM opposite Rouse’s Point, a piece of land stretching out a good way in the Lake — the Americans had built a very fine large stone Fort upon this Point, but by the last settlement of the Boundary Line, it was found out to have been erected on British Property25 — the village of Champlain lies close by — stopt at Plattsburgh and Port Kent in passing — the places in themselves poor enough in appearance, but the Country round about delightful — a small storm, the Boat rolled about just like a ship at sea — a few of the Passengers sick — arrived at Burlington about 7 PM where we stopt for about half an hour ...

Table of contents

• Cover
• Title
• Copyright
• Contents
• List of Illustrations
• Foreword
• Acknowledgments
• Editor’s Introduction
• The 1826 New York State Travel Journal of Alexander tewart Scott
• Afterword
• Appendix One
• Appendix Two
• Notes
• Index
• Back Cover