Chapter 1
Getting started
In this chapter, we look at the equipment you need in order to embark on your flower drawing. Most of us, when we’re learning a new skill, will often buy too many materials at the outset through sheer enthusiasm, but this is often a waste of money. All that’s necessary to make a start here is a pencil, a sharpener, an eraser and some paper.
With any materials, I strongly advise trying products from several manufacturers, since one brand’s 2H pencil will certainly be different from another, for example. I have discovered my own preferences over the years mainly by exploring what’s available from art supplies stockists rather than by following recommendations from other artists.
Pencils and accessories
While brands differ slightly in the range they offer, pencils are graded from 9H through to 9B, 9H being the hardest and 9B the softest, with HB and F in between. The H pencils can produce lovely light tones; for the darker shadow areas, I often use the softer B grades. The addition of small, intense areas of dark shading, made with a B pencil sharpened to a fine point with an emery board, can create instant drama in your drawing. Derwent, Faber-Castell and Staedtler are excellent manufacturers and you can buy a box with a good range of hard and soft leads. You can give the pencil lead an angled edge by using an emery board, which will enable you to produce both tone and very fine line.
Clutch pencils are versatile and useful as you can expose the lead to the required length and grind it to a fine point, again with an emery board. These pencils sometimes have a removable sharpener at the end. Use this with caution, as the fine graphite dust can sometimes remain in the sharpener and spill out on to your paper. The leads are quite thick – usually 2–5mm. When you want a harder or a softer lead, change it by inserting it into the clutch mechanism at the tip.
A propelling pencil differs from a clutch pencil in that the leads used are usually finer at 0.3mm, 0.5mm and 0.7mm, and you simply push the end of the casing to propel the lead forwards. These pencils can be used for fine, detailed work, but the lead is susceptible to snapping if you exert much pressure. There’s no need to sharpen it, as movement on the paper will produce the smooth edge that is required.
Sharpeners
Desk sharpeners can be clamped to the table surface, which makes them look sturdy and capable. However, they can sometimes make the lead in the pencil unstable, so the simple hand-held pencil sharpeners are not only a cheaper alternative but better, too.
With repeated sharpening your pencils will become shorter, of course. A pencil extender is a handy tool which lengthens the barrel to give you extra grip and so prolongs the life of the pencil.
Erasers
A battery-operated eraser is a useful tool for taking out specific marks, as it revolves at quite a high speed and is firm and small.
A putty rubber is very pliable and ideal for lifting out highlights and overworked parts. You can break off bits with which to lift out specific small areas – this is a more gentle approach than using a battery-operated eraser, but it is less effective for restoring the white of the paper. It’s also possible to roll a piece of putty rubber into a sausage shape and glide it over the paper – this avoids disturbing the surface by rubbing. Alternatively, to lift out finer lines, use a scalpel to cut angled slices from a plastic eraser.
Tortillons and paper stumps
Made from tightly rolled paper, tortillons and paper stumps are designed for smoothing areas of graphite to give a smudged look, or spreading the graphite to give an area of overall tone. There is little difference between them, though you have a choice between one pointed end or points at both ends. They can be cleaned by rubbing the end with some fine sandpaper, which also restores a fine point. Tortillons and paper stumps are available in a variety of sizes from quite small to large.
Stylus
I use this tool for indenting the paper, which is a good way of creating hairs on stems, leaves and petals (see pages 98–99). Styluses have wooden stems, with different-sized metal ends in the shape of a ball. For a much finer line, you could use a darning needle or any metal implement with a blunt end.
Pen and ink
For pen-and-ink work, the most useful and easily available tools are fibre-tip pens. Often described as throwaway pens, they are an economical purchase. Depending on the manufacturer, they can be bought in various sizes. For the finer line shown here, I used a Staedtler 0.05, a pen with lightfast, waterproof ink. For the thicker line, I used a Staedtler 0.3 pen. I would generally not use a nib bigger than 0.3 for flower drawing. It is worth experimenting with different makes, such as Pilot, Edding and Faber-Castell.
Another useful t...