Introduction
The following article traces travel narratives evolving from a social context that is openly denounced to be extremely hostile to travelling. This fundamental discrepancy is intriguing because it hints at the dynamics, the emotional investments and the practical burdens that encircled womenâs travels in colonial Bengal. How do travelogues thrive in an environment that stereotypically perceived the situation of women in terms of confinement, restricted mobility and blocked vision? There is no better way to illustrate this ambience than to look at some randomly chosen quotations from a huge array of statements running through much of early Bengali womenâs journalism. The anonymous author of the article, âReforming Hindu Societyâ, in the pages of the periodical Baáč
gamahilÄ in 1875 claims, for instance:
A few pages later in the same issue, a woman author called Mayasundari complains:
This perception of female immobility still persisted a quarter of a century later. In a travelogue about Jharkhand in the pages of the journal MahilÄ (1899), the anonymous male writer laments about Bengalis not travelling, particularly women:
These quotes exemplify that mobility, or rather the lack of it, is one of the fundamental themes discussed in early Bengali womenâs journalism, i.e. monthlies initially written mostly by men, and later also by women, for consumption by women. The confinement of Bengali women in the antaáž„pur or andarËĄmahal, the inner chambers, was equated with darkness and ignorance, stepping out of the house with enlightenment,4 and Western women with active roles in social life were set up in the periodicals as models to emulate from the very start.5
As the last-quoted anonymous writer suggests, travelling, regardless of gender, had not quite become a widespread social practice amongst Bengalis at the close of the nineteenth century. Despite what proponents of an outgoing, expansionist Greater Bengal of old such as Radha Kumud Mookerji (1884â1963) may have claimed,6 there is little evidence that the picture was different in earlier timesâquite the reverse. Testimonies and narrations of journeys in the pre-colonial period are dispersed over genres like the Maáč
galËĄkÄbyas, hagiographic literature and pilgrimage accounts, but they are very few and far between. Only in the second half of the nineteenth century did travelling gather pace and only then was travel literature popularised in Bengal.7 The incipient trend of travelling in the second half of the nineteenth century was in many ways an effect of the British colonial order and implied new kinds of vision and space-making. In Simonti Senâs words, âcolonialism marked the point of departureâ for a new kind of travelling that did nothing less than furnish the Bengalis with an âexperience of modern subjectivityâ.8 Sandeep Banerjee and Subho Basu, in their analysis of Himalaya travelogues by three prominent mid to end nineteenth-century (male) Bengali writers, also describe a transition in attitudes from a traditional sacred topography towards a secularised nationalist territorialisation.9
However, looking back from the late nineteenth century through the lens of our anonymous male author, this rather short recorded history of Bengali travelling appeared to be an overwhelmingly male affair. Roughly speaking, we would seem to be confronted with a scenario in which British men move between imperial centre, colonial centre and periphery, while colonised males (except for a few illustrious cases) stay in the colonial centre or periphery or move from the latter to the former. British women, on the other hand, start moving from imperial centre to colonial centre or periphery on a noticeable scale with the opening of the Suez Canal (1869), while colonised females remain mostly immobile.10 Such a situation would be neatly in sync with the discourse on (im)mobility encountered in the periodicals being investigated, and seems to have dominated the common imagination up until today.
On closer perusal, however, it becomes clear that this picture is only partial and needs a good deal of differentiation along both class lines and according to region. Mobility in a larger sense is not only about travelling but includes various forms of migration, amongst them regulated and coercive ones. Indentured labour, for instance, already going on in the 1830s, was a work regime that brought with it a coercive type of mobility that was often experienced as displacement. In the main, it was Indian men who were sent on work contracts to Mauritius, South Africa or the Caribbean, but women were also part of the indentured labour system as spouses, ayahs or workers.11
As for more voluntary kinds of female mobility on the Indian subcontinent, those were still quite isolated events, all the more so when it came to journeys to overseas destinations. The 1880s in western India saw the spectacular travels of Anandibai Joshi (1865â87) and Pandita Ramabai (1858â1922), two Marathi women who travelled abroad on their own. Anandibai Joshi is famous for having been the first Indian woman to earn a degree in medicine from the United States of America. Pandita Ramabai, after itinerant years in rural India with her brother, became a writer and activist in her early twenties, converted to Christianity and spent years in Britain and America in Christian and socially-progressive circles. While in the USA (1886â88), she became a well-known public persona and speaker, and started writing her extensive Marathi-language book about America which appeared in 1889.12 Turning to Bengal, the first woman who set foot on European ground was apparently Kamalmani, the daughter of Krishnamohan Bandyopadhyay, who accompanied her husband on a journey to England in 1859. A decade later, the Dutt family, with daughters Aru and young writer Toru, went to France and England, followed by others. In 1877, Jnanadanandini Debi with her three children was the first Bengali female to travel to England without a male companion. And in 1893, Kadambini Gangopadhyay was the first female medical practitioner (gynaecologist) from Bengal to go to England for training.13 None of these women, however, authored travelogues.
But others did, as travelling became more frequent and educated Bengali women started to travel both out...