PART ONE ā Girls Just Want to Have Fun
1.1
Darkness.
From the minaret of a nearby mosque, the Adhan is heard. As the muezzin calls Muslims to prayer, his voice is joined by the ringing of church bells.
They sound in perfect harmony.
Enter EMINA (fifty), wearing a headscarf.
She opens the curtains. Daylight illuminates the modest living room and kitchenette of a small flat adorned in traditional Bosnian decor: one part Ottoman, one part Austro-Hungarian, and one part Mediterranean.
On the stove sits a copper džezva [jez-va] in which her coffee gently cooks. She approaches it and peers inside, stirring its contents patiently. When itās ready, she turns off the heat and places it on a beautifully embossed copper tray. The care and ritual with which she prepares it suggests a lifetimeās tradition.
She sits at the table and pours herself a cup. The smell of fresh coffee and warm copper enriches the air. It overwhelms you.
EMINA. She looks as though she were built by Nature, not by men.
As though Nature herself laid her eyes upon the two halves of this town, carved apart by the very river she placed here millennia ago, and knew at once that these two lands should be united once again⦠so she grew a bridge. A bridge of stone and vine and iron, which sprouted from the cliffs like the roots of a great tree. Reaching out towards each other slowly, over centuries, until those hands were locked together in an everlasting grip.
Farmers, merchants, kings and emperors, master stonemasons from Rome, Dalmatia and Athens ā people came from every corner of the land to cast their eyes on what they thought could never be possible: a bridge of stone across the river Neretva. Each stood dumbstruck by her grandeur, for to see her was to know beyond a shadow of a doubt that men could not have built such a thing, this⦠colossus of stone, stretching out into the sky; slender and elegant, yet as firm and everlasting as the mountains around her.
And even though she was the only bridge in town, the only bridge for a hundred miles, the name they gave her⦠was Old Bridge. Because they knew that she had been here precisely since forever, and would be here, still, until the end of time.
Old Bridge⦠Stari Most⦠Mostar was born that day. And with it a thousand poems, paintings, novels, countless love songs, first dates, first kisses. Thereās not a story told here that doesnāt start with the words āby Old Bridgeā or ānear Old Bridgeā or āyouāll never guess who I saw on Old Bridge today.ā
And I guess this story isnāt any different.
It was the day before the jump. We knew some of the boys would be on the waterfront practising and thatās exactly where we were headed. Tourists cling to her railings as they try to cross, staring down at the gaps and imperfections of ancient hands as me and Leila just glide across in heels, making it look easy. Like running up the stairs of your own home; you donāt have to look.
Through the market, down the cobble steps, all the way to the river. We take a seat near the waterās edge; find that perfect spot where Old Bridge blocks the sun. That summertime buzz of a hundred clamouring voices fills the air untilā¦
Silence. Everyone stops⦠Everyone looks up.
On her summit stands a silhouette in cruciform. Head up, chest out, arms wide: Lasta, we call it⦠the technique theyāve used for centuries. All eyes are fixed on him. Not a whisper as he waits⦠breathes in slowlyā¦
He leans his body forward, flicks his toes, throws his arms out to the side and flies, tearing the clear blue sky in half.
Her eyes follow him as he falls: Five⦠Four⦠Three⦠Two⦠Oneā¦
Not a splash⦠The most perfect Lasta I had ever seen.
But no one claps. Not yet. Itās not the jump that kills you itās the river. It looks tame on the surface but the undercurrentās vicious: if it grabs you by the ankle and you werenāt raised on this river then your bodyās getting washed up on the coast somewhere. Weāve seen it happen.
Silence⦠He should be up by now.
A group of tourists smile in ignorant anticipation but the locals just stay quiet. If the silence was uncomfortable before, itās painful now. Iām holding my breath. This boyās either dead or has lungs like a dolphin. And just as Leila grabs my arm and starts to squeeze⦠a head emerges. I breathe out.
The tourists start clapping but the locals just roll their eyes. The boy looks around expecting a fanfare but there isnāt one. Just Leila, cupping her hands around her mouth: āYou swim like you were taught in a bathtub!ā Everyone looks over as we burst out laughing. He looks over too. Starts swimming right towards us and weāre screaming now, dying of laughter but the more we try to stop the more we canāt!
He gets to the riverbank⦠Every muscle in his body tenses as he pulls himself out of the water, and those smiles get wiped right off our faces.
She walk over to the stereo and presses play. āGirls Just Want to Have Funā by Cyndi Lauper blares out loud and fabulous as the apartment disappears, and weāre transported to:
1.2
Waterfront, 1988.
MINA and LEILA (both eighteen) are sat on the riverbank. MINA wears a bright white dress.
MILI (twenty) is stood in front of them. Swimming trunks. Wet.
The music stops abruptly.
MILI. Well? What do you think?
MINA. Excuse me?
MILI.ā¦My jump. What do you think?
MINA. Oh⦠it was alright I guess. Wasnāt really paying attention.
MILI. Whatās your name?
MINA.ā¦Mina. This is my friend Leila.
MILI. Hey. Thatās quite a voice youāve got.
LEILA. Oh⦠that wasnāt⦠no, they were⦠those guys left.
Silence.
MILI (to MINA). I like your dress.
MINA. Thanks, itās Italian.
LEILA. Yeah my mum made it for her.
MINA stares at her, unimpressed.
MINA.ā¦So it was like in this copy of Vogue my auntie sent from England⦠and she made it like exactly the same so itās still⦠you know itās still⦠Italian.
Silence.
LEILA. Where are you from?
MIL...