1
âI Hate Those Awful Goodbyesâ
1 JUNE 1910
WEST INDIA DOCKS, LONDON
High on the main mast, a flag flutters out â a white firework bursting against a brilliant blue sky. A cheer erupts, making the air tremble. The Ensign is broken. The white rectangle with its red crosses lifts in the roof-skimming breeze. It is the most prestigious flag in the Royal Navy, the red cross of St George with a miniature version in the upper canton. At this moment, it is the starter gun to the Pole. At the bottom of the mast is Lady Bridgeman, the admiralâs wife, who now hands the flag halyard back to her husband.
Among the crowd jostling and cheering on West India Docks, there are five women. At this moment in the summer of 1910, the five have no idea that they share a common future. And yet, as the flag breaks, they move in unison, faces lifting to the sky, their wide hat brims crosshatching the heat-shimmered surface. But there is another woman who has her back turned to the flag. She is looking in the opposite direction.
This woman has no hat, no gloves. She wears an impassive expression, cool and calm. In her old-fashioned decollete dress, she resembles a chaste Botticellian Venus. The womanâs head is tipped back towards the bow of the wooden barque. Her long throat is exposed, her loosely streaming hair decorated with roses. It is nothing to her whether she cleaves the clean, cold waters of Newfoundland or flotsam and bloated rats.
She is the Terra Novaâs figurehead, the protectress but also the muse, the witch, the siren call of adventure, the song leading them on. Whatever the secret hopes and fears fluttering through full hearts on the crowded dock today, this wooden beauty is the only woman going all the way to the Antarctic.
The men from the Royal Geographical Society who have come down to the docks for the Terra Novaâs christening admire the elegant figurehead with her serene expression. She will take the expedition men, all of whom apart from Bill Wilson are here, basking in the adulation of the crowd, down to the Antarctic coast. But she will not stay. The men of the RGS stand apart from the âunwashedâ cheering crowd. They are nearly all agreed that no flesh and blood woman would, could or should ever explore, particularly the far south. Lord Curzon, the president-elect, is most decided. The RGS should not admit females.
We contest in toto, the general capability of women to contribute to scientific geographic knowledge. Their sex and training render them equally unfitted for exploration; and the genus of professional female globe-trotters with which America has lately familiarised us is one of the horrors of the latter end of the nineteenth century.[38]
Douglas Freshfield, Curzonâs vice president, disagrees. He is all for women. Might he refer Lord Curzon to Mrs Freshfieldâs publications Alpine Byways and A Tour of the Grisons? Thereâs little point. Women, Curzon assures Freshfield, will contribute nothing but their guineas to geography.[39]
Sir Clements Markham, the father of Antarctic exploration, is standing beside his wife on the deck of the Terra Nova, where she has just raised the shipâs burgee. Sir Clements hopes that this expedition will restore credibility to a Society âlost by the mismanagement of the female troubleâ.[40] The Sixth International Geographical Congress agrees that exploration of the Antarctic region is the greatest piece of geographical exploration still to be undertaken. Scottâs Terra Nova expedition must erase, not just the taint of ignorance from the map at the bottom of the world, but ignominy and dissent in the dispute over women. The British Antarctic Expedition must realign the RGS behind an ideal Britannia. Amid the noise and summer heat, the Terra Novaâs figurehead remains unflinching in the face of that vast responsibility.
ORIANA â LONDON
Oriana Wilson stands on the Terra Novaâs deck, looking out at the crowd. She has spent four years on Lord Lovatâs remote Scottish moor in Fort Augustus with only her husband and black grouse for company, and now this. At least there is a breeze somewhere. It is cooler here than down below in her husbandâs cabin, where she has just finished stowing his gear. The London smog is almost fresh in comparison to the heavy reek of whale oil and shag smoke down there.
The ship pitches and yaws lightly on the rising tide. Fortunately, Ory is a good sailor. She boasts a stomach of solid iron (reinforced appropriately in the present context by a whalebone corset). A long skirt and a corset are not ideal working clothes aboard, but she has standards. Even dressed as a lady, she would not normally presume to work alongside the sailors unless it was necessary, but it is. As head of the scientific staff, Bill, her husband, must arrive in the Antarctic with the correct equipment. (He is, at this moment, in the Orkneys, learning how to catch whales in order to restock the larder in the Antarctic.) As her husbandâs unofficial scientific assistant, she knows what the correct equipment is.
While Bill has been embracing the character-building discomfort and drenching seas, Oriana, who his family have nicknamed his âU.H.â (Useful Help), has provisioned his cabin to cover everything from art to ornithology via medicine. She has stowed Billâs watercolour paintbrushes with the scalpels, arsenic preserving fluid with antiseptic (both clearly labelled) and a stack of his favourite cartridge paper with gelatine sizing. In pride of place she has placed the page proofs of their precious grouse enquiry report, the culmination of four yearsâ harmonious fieldwork together.
If Ory tries to pinpoint the exact moment her husband had agreed to return to the Antarctic, she would cite the invitation that arrived in Fort Augustus. It was sent by an exultant Scott immediately after he heard that Shackletonâs Nimrod expedition had failed to reach the Pole. âIf I should go South again,â wrote Scott to Bill, âyou know there is no one in the world I would sooner have with me than you, though I should perfectly understand the ties which might make it impossible.â[41] Ory does not want to be that tie. But when she expressed her concerns for her husbandâs safety (and perhaps her ability to endure another long separation with an uncertain outcome), Bill responded emphatically, âI cannot bring myself to think that you would fail.â It would be failure if he had to âbe afraid on her accountâ and it would be failure if he had to âdesert Scott if he goesâ.[42]
Shackleton, now Sir Ernest Shackleton, apparently told his wife that he turned back within a hundred miles of the South Pole because he thought she would prefer âa live donkey to a dead lionâ. Ory still wonders, which would Bill choose? Donkey or lion? Life or death? Billâs deep Christian faith means a tendency to prefix âlifeâ with âthisâ, âthis lifeâ: âThis is not our rest, and the sooner itâs over, the sooner to sleep.â[43] Bill compares Christian life to a building â Ory and he must be vigilant for cracks or âsigns of settlingâ. Now on the West India Docks as Ory watches Lady Markham hand back the burgee halyards to her husband, she can at least confirm that there are no signs of settling down yet. She has not failed.
A brass band strikes up on the dockside. After breaking the flag there was a lull but now there is a renewed surge of energy, crowds jostling for a view, children on shoulders swinging rattles and streamers, in the harbour hooters, cheers, claxons, and the slap and splash of the heavy hemp ropes as they fall from the stanchions into the water below. The diminutive three-masted whaler, dwarfed by great liners and cargo-carrying ships, eases away from the dockside, out into the flood tide. The noise of the crowds behind is gradually replaced by the even rhythm of the steam engine, the slap of silty waves against the bow where the figurehead leans out, her right arm extended towards the unknown, towards terra nova.
When the flurry of departure settles and the shipâs routine resumes, the logbook is brought for Oryâs examination. She finds, to her surprise, that her name is entered on the first pristine page as the âOfficer of the Watchâ. It is touching to find that her hard work below deck has not gone unnoticed. As Officer of the Watch, she wonders what her duties entail. There has never been a reason to write âherâ in the Royal Navy rule book, but âhis duty [is] to keep watch on the Bridge ⌠as the representative of the shipâs master, to accept total responsibility for safe and smooth navigationâ. Ory watches the sailorsâ practised movements as they work the ship smoothly and safely. The tidal flats slip away on either side: Surrey Quays, Greenwich and Woolwich. At 8 p.m. the ship docks at Greenhithe for the night and Ory disembarks. Tomorrow it will carry on to Portsmouth en route to Cardiff. It has been a thrilling time â alive with possibility. It seems entirely in keeping when, the next day, Charles Rolls completes the first continuous cross-Channel return flight in his Wright Flyer from Dover to Sangatte in ninety minutes.
3 JUNE 1910
BILL WILSON â ORKNEY ISLANDS, SCOTLAND
In the fishing grounds of Orkney, unaware of âMrs Wilson O.O.W. (RN)â or Rollsâs feat of aviation, Oryâs husband Bill stands on the firing platform of a whaler, the heavy gun loaded. His whaling instructor is Henriksen, a young Viking of thirty-three years. âOften I tink,â Henriksen assures Bill, âI know vat dat vhal tink in my het.â[44] In his letter to his wife, Bill narrates Henriksenâs pigeon-English for her entertainment: âI tink I know vhat dat val will tink â dat chap â he tink, ven I go down, I go dis way â ja â den I tink, ja, dis way; den I tink again, dat vhal he go dis vay, but den he go dis vay, âgain I tink â so I go not dis vay, but dat vay â so â dat feller he come and blow anâ I shoot â ja!â
As the Orkney whale feints this way and that, trying to shake his nemesis, on Friday 3 June another Norwegian, the explorer Roald Amundsen, slips quietly out of Christiania (present-day Oslo). He has borrowed his friend and mentor polar explorer Fridtjof Nansenâs ice ship, the Fram. He has made sure that the general assumption is that he is heading north, embarking on an Arctic drift. Unlike the continental Antarctic, the Arctic is a frozen sea, so Amundsen and the team aboard the Fram will drift across the Arctic, moving with the ocean current.
Days after Amundsenâs unobtrusive departure, Bill returns to the Terra Nova for the journey to Cardiff. He notices his wifeâs name in the shipâs log. A private joke is one thing, but the log will be inspected in every port so he feels he has to insure against misinterpretation â she is not a âglobe-trotterâ and he does not want her to be mistaken for one. âOry was on board but not I,â he writes at the beginning of his expedition journal. âOryâs initials may be seen in the Terra Nova log as one of the Officers on Watch ⌠I did not put them there or suggest it, but they are there.â[45]
Bill has tried to impress upon the men of the Terra Nova that anything they write down could be used by a journalist looking for a story. His experience on Scottâs previous Discovery expedition has made him wary â the unscrupulous press stop at nothing for sensational headlines and it disgusts him. In the Antarctic, when they can only send and receive letters once a year when the supply ship gets through the sea ice, a misunderstanding might take a year to correct. Scott has produced an official âconfidentiality noticeâ to be included in every letter home as a precaution.
If Bill was really worried that âWatch Officer Oryâ might be mistaken for a âNew Womanâ or worse, a hunger-marching suffragette, he might have referred to her as âOrianaâ, or even âMrs Wilsonâ. But the âjokeâ was being written into the Terra Nova log about the same time that he was pidgining the telepathic Norwegian whale captain to Ory in his letters. Part of him realises that the sailors meant it as a piece of harmless fun, as flattery even, and besides, she deserves appropriate recognition:
These were days of very hard work for Ory, as she has had all the London packing to do while I was really making holiday ⌠She has had no holiday, and the weather has been very hot ⌠[She] got all my clothes ready for the whole voyage and had them packed for...