Designing, Cutting and Grading Boot and Shoe Patterns, and Complete Manual for the Stitching Room

C. B. Hatfield

• Publisher: Old Hand Books
• Year: 2017
• Print ISBN:
  9781473338272
• eBook ISBN:
  9781473344747
• Topic: Technology & Engineering
• Subtopic: Fashion Design
• Index: Technology & Engineering

First published in 1897, this volume is a complete guide to designing and cutting boot and shoe patterns, published with the novice in mind. Written in simple, clear language and profusely illustrated, this volume will be of considerable utility of those with a practical interest in shoemaking, and it is not to be missed by collectors of vintage literature of this ilk. Contents include: "Moulding the Last", "Getting and Dissecting the Standard", "A Lady's Dongola Boot—Buttons in Right Position", "The Cloth Lining and Button Fly—Vamping Through Linings—Getting the Button Fly", "Circular Vamp—Rounding off Corners", "Button Fly and Top Facing—A Popular Foxing", "Woman's Dongola Beaded Vamp Gypsy Button Boot", etc. Many vintage books such as this are becoming increasingly scarce and expensive. We are republishing this volume now in an affordable, modern, high-quality addition complete with a specially commissioned new introduction on history of shoemaking.

Table of contents

• Cover
• Title
• Contents
• Chapter I. Moulding the Last
• Chapter II. Getting and Dissecting the Standard
• Chapter III. A Lady’s Dongola Boot.—Buttons in Right Position
• Chapter IV. The Cloth Lining and Button Fly.—Vamting Through Linings.—Getting the Button Fly
• Chapter V. Circular Vamp.—Rounding off Corners
• Chapter VI. Button Fly and Top Facing.—A Popular Foxing
• Chapter VII. Whole-Foxed or Seamless Vamps, Cloth Quarters, and Fly Linings
• Chapter VIII. Woman’s Dongola Beaded Vamp Gypsy Button Boot
• Chapter IX. The Side Lace Shoe and Climax Button Boot.—Front and Back Quarters
• Chapter X. Woman’s Leather Congress
• Chapter XI. Button Boot with Rolled Top
• Chapter XII. Front Lace Shoes
• Chapter XIII. Cloth Quarters and Welt-Shoes
• Chapter XIV. McKay, Oxford, Circular Vamp, Foxed Quarters, and Circular Linings
• Chapter XV An Even Bead Oxford
• Chapter XVI. Newports, Southern Ties, and Low Cuts
• Chapter XVII. Strap Sandals and Opera Slippers
• Chapter XVIII. A Women’s Cloth Congress. Tips
• Chapter XIX. Men’s Shoes
• Chapter XX. Concerning Men’s Vamps
• Chapter XXI. Men’s Lace and Congress. Lasting
• Chapter XXII. Fitting and Lasting the Congress
• Chapter XXIII. Grading Upper Patterns
• Chapter XXIV. Grading by Hand
• Chapter XXV. Getting the Lining and Button Fly, Working from EE, and Grading Infants
• Chapter XXVI. The Old One-Sixteenth Inch Rule
• Chapter XXVII. One Method Correct
• Chapter XXVIII. Grading Widths, Some Use Only Three-Width Patterns, Heel Measure
• Chapter XXIX. Grading Button Fly
• Appendix
• Index