I have to admit that, while I love Lindaās Leavellās 2013 biography of Marianne Moore, Holding On Upside Down: The Life and Work of Marianne Moore , I also find it disturbing. While I knew that Moore had made certain sacrifices in order to pursue her life as a poet in the company of her mother, Mary, I donāt think any of us imagined the extent of the deprivations involved. Mary held the money. Every penny that Moore made, whether from salary, poetry, or prizes, went to savings that Mary never touched. The basement apartment that the two women shared after they moved to Greenwich Village was tiny and afforded Moore neither mental nor physical privacy. Mary supervised Mooreās bedtimes, personal hygiene, and meals, which consisted of meager fare prepared on a hot plate that Moore ate sitting on the edge of the bathtub. Thanksgiving dinner one year, Leavell writes, consisted of leftover sardines. Moore internalized her frustration and anxiety by not eating. Leavell charts the frightening fluctuations in Mooreās weight. Healthy and robust at 130 pounds at best, she frequently dropped below 90. 1 When Moore became attached to a stray kitten the two had taken in, Mary chloroformed it, ostensibly to save the cost of feeding it (2013, 206ā207).
Food, Glorious Food
While reading any work of art through the artistās biography has its pitfalls, Leavellās revelations have led me back to Mooreās poems with food on the brain. Leavellās book prompts the question of Mooreās frequent use of eating as a metaphor. 2 Indeed, throughout her career, many of Mooreās favorite terms in relation to the production and consumption of artāfastidiousness, taste , distaste, disgust, and gusto āare terms rooted in food and appetite . In many of her verses, Moore uses gustatory metaphors to encourage her readers to eat upāto ingest new things and avoid the narrowness of appetite that defines āgood taste ā as a matter of exclusion. On the other hand, Mooreās poems appreciate, at times, those who eat little or nothing at all, adapting themselves to live on āevery kind of shortage.ā So how to make sense of Mooreās metaphors of eating? How do Mooreās poems look different in light of Leavellās revelations about Mooreās problematic relationship with food ?
A good place to start to answer this question is Mooreās poem āCritics and Connoisseurs .ā āCritics and Connoisseurs ā is, in essence, a poem about food . Or, more precisely, a poem about consuming art that figures this process in terms of eating. Moore first began taking notes that she would shape into āCriticsā in 1914. She did not begin to work on the poem in earnest, however, until after her now famously transformative ten-day trip to New York City with the Cowdrey sisters in December of 1915. In a letter to her brother, Warner, Moore referred to her journey as the equivalent of Mosesā journey across the Red Seaāa passage of pure emancipation, during which she acquired Alfred Kreymborg , the irrepressible editor of Others: A Magazine of Verse , as a mentor, visited Alfred Stieglitzās 291 gallery, and hobnobbed with members of the New York artistic avant-garde. 3
The trip buoyed Moore at a critical time in her life. In the previous year, Moore had stepped away from her job teaching at the Carlisle Indian School and her mother Mary had lost her job as a teacher at the Metzger Institute. These events, Leavell reports, led to distinct changes in household habits that put stress on Moore. While a teacher at Metzger, Mary boarded her family at the school and did none of the cooking. Once she began to cook at home, frugality became the order of the day. āPriding herself on the thrift of her meals rather than their heartiness,ā Leavell writes, ā[Mary] learned that she could get five meals per week out of one chicken or duck and eat cheese or bacon for the other two.ā Vegetables became a āluxury.ā As Mary reported to Warner , the disruptions led Moore to lose her appetite . āRat,ā she wrote, using Marianneās family nickname, āhates his food ā (2013, 128ā129).
In the face of new regimens, Moore devoted her energy full time to her poems and, throughout 1914 and 1915, began to write with a new sense of professional purpose and drive. The trip to New York was part of a spiritual and bodily renaissance. Released into a new space of freedom and possibility, Moore consumed new art of all kinds, an aesthetic smorgasbord that led her to rethink both the form and the content of her verse. She also, it seems, ate new foods . As she reported to her brother, she went one day to lunch at a Turkish restaurant called The Constantinople. āWe had soup and pieces of meat roasted on skewers and meat fried in grape leaves and rice and pastry and ice cream,ā she gushed to Warner (Moore 1997, 103). The shish kebab and dolmades were clearly novel and exotic treats.
A product of Mooreās trip to New York and her concerted efforts to change her poetic style, āCritics and Connoisseurs ā strikes most readers as a bridge to Mooreās mature verse. The poem hinges on two terms, āunconscious fastidiousnessā and āconscious fastidiousness,ā and the images that define them. 4 āThere is a great amount of poetry,ā Moore begins, āin unconscious/ Fastidiousness.ā At first pass, the statement seems to be an oxymoron. To be fastidious, in the wordās modern sense, is to be overly nice, exacting to the point of annoying, proper in ways that are inhibiting. To be fastidious is to be disdainful and prideful and over think just about everythingāthe utter antithesis of unconsciousness. Moore clarifies her terms, however, by offering examples of what unconscious fastidiousness looks like:
Certain Ming
Products, imperial floor coverings of coach
Wheel yellow, are well enough in their way but I have seen something
That I like betterāa
Mere childish attempt to make an imperfectly ballasted animal stand up,
A determination ditto to make a pup
Eat his meat on the plate. (Becoming 215)
Beautiful carpets notwithstanding, the soul of āunconscious fastidiousnessā lies in the act of trainingāor trying to traināa puppy. The idea of getting a wee dog to walk on hind legs and eat from a plate seems absurdly fussy. Yet, Moore suggests, the activity is elementally different from a conscious effort to maintain propriety that is rooted in disdain. Teaching a wobbly little dog table manners is a āmere childishā diversion, an inconsequential, playful, silly expression of affection. Such attention to detail is loving and not meant, as Moore would write in another poem about taste and distaste, to āset people right.ā Mooreās best example of āunconscious fastidiousnessā is also one of feeding and being fed. The owner of the pup offers up food that the pup, it seems, is all too eager to eat. The puppy is the opposite of fussy. Puppy appetite constitutes a counter-force to any effort to exact fastidious control over lifeās imperfections.
Indeed, as the next three stanzas of the poem reveal, the very notion of āconscious fastidiousnessā that Moore wants so badly to critique is best imagined in the body of a picky eater:
I remember a black swan on the Cherwell in Oxford
With flamingo colored, maple-
Leaflike feet. It stood out to sea like a battle-
ship. Disbelief and conscious fastidiousness were the staple
Ingredients in its
Disinclination to move. Finally its hardihood was not proof against its
Inclination to detain and appraise such bits
Of food as the stream
Bore counter to it; it made away with what I gave it
To eat. I have seen this swan and
I have seen you; I have seen ambition without
Understanding in a variety of forms. Happening to stand
By an ant hill, I have
Seen a fastidious ant carrying a stick, north, south, east, west, till it turned on
Itself, struck out from the flower-bed into the lawn,
And returned to the point
From which it had started. Then abandoning the stick as
Useless and overtaxing his
Jaws with a particle of whitewash, pill-like but
Heavy, he again went through the same course of procedure.
(Becoming 215ā216)
In the image of the Oxford swan, Moore conflates a closed mind that wonāt accept new ideas with an unadventurous palate that wonāt try new food . Mooreās speaker offers up food to a bird that stands āout to sea like a battleship,ā actively defending itself against anything that it doesnāt immediately recognize as its usual fare. The swan, Moore states, is a creature of āstaple ingredients,ā the routine stuff of a standard diet. While Moore depicts the puppy as an āimperfectly ballastedā ship, a bundle of spontaneous energy bound to capsize, ...
