Food, Glorious Food
While reading any work of art through the artistâs biography has its pitfalls, Leavellâs revelations have led me back to Mooreâs poems with food on the brain. Leavellâs book prompts the question of Mooreâs frequent use of eating as a metaphor. 2 Indeed, throughout her career, many of Mooreâs favorite terms in relation to the production and consumption of artâfastidiousness, taste , distaste, disgust, and gusto âare terms rooted in food and appetite . In many of her verses, Moore uses gustatory metaphors to encourage her readers to eat upâto ingest new things and avoid the narrowness of appetite that defines âgood taste â as a matter of exclusion. On the other hand, Mooreâs poems appreciate, at times, those who eat little or nothing at all, adapting themselves to live on âevery kind of shortage.â So how to make sense of Mooreâs metaphors of eating? How do Mooreâs poems look different in light of Leavellâs revelations about Mooreâs problematic relationship with food ?
A good place to start to answer this question is Mooreâs poem âCritics and Connoisseurs .â âCritics and Connoisseurs â is, in essence, a poem about food . Or, more precisely, a poem about consuming art that figures this process in terms of eating. Moore first began taking notes that she would shape into âCriticsâ in 1914. She did not begin to work on the poem in earnest, however, until after her now famously transformative ten-day trip to New York City with the Cowdrey sisters in December of 1915. In a letter to her brother, Warner, Moore referred to her journey as the equivalent of Mosesâ journey across the Red Seaâa passage of pure emancipation, during which she acquired Alfred Kreymborg , the irrepressible editor of Others: A Magazine of Verse , as a mentor, visited Alfred Stieglitzâs 291 gallery, and hobnobbed with members of the New York artistic avant-garde. 3
The trip buoyed Moore at a critical time in her life. In the previous year, Moore had stepped away from her job teaching at the Carlisle Indian School and her mother Mary had lost her job as a teacher at the Metzger Institute. These events, Leavell reports, led to distinct changes in household habits that put stress on Moore. While a teacher at Metzger, Mary boarded her family at the school and did none of the cooking. Once she began to cook at home, frugality became the order of the day. âPriding herself on the thrift of her meals rather than their heartiness,â Leavell writes, â[Mary] learned that she could get five meals per week out of one chicken or duck and eat cheese or bacon for the other two.â Vegetables became a âluxury.â As Mary reported to Warner , the disruptions led Moore to lose her appetite . âRat,â she wrote, using Marianneâs family nickname, âhates his food â (2013, 128â129).
In the face of new regimens, Moore devoted her energy full time to her poems and, throughout 1914 and 1915, began to write with a new sense of professional purpose and drive. The trip to New York was part of a spiritual and bodily renaissance. Released into a new space of freedom and possibility, Moore consumed new art of all kinds, an aesthetic smorgasbord that led her to rethink both the form and the content of her verse. She also, it seems, ate new foods . As she reported to her brother, she went one day to lunch at a Turkish restaurant called The Constantinople. âWe had soup and pieces of meat roasted on skewers and meat fried in grape leaves and rice and pastry and ice cream,â she gushed to Warner (Moore 1997, 103). The shish kebab and dolmades were clearly novel and exotic treats.
A product of Mooreâs trip to New York and her concerted efforts to change her poetic style, âCritics and Connoisseurs â strikes most readers as a bridge to Mooreâs mature verse. The poem hinges on two terms, âunconscious fastidiousnessâ and âconscious fastidiousness,â and the images that define them. 4 âThere is a great amount of poetry,â Moore begins, âin unconscious/ Fastidiousness.â At first pass, the statement seems to be an oxymoron. To be fastidious, in the wordâs modern sense, is to be overly nice, exacting to the point of annoying, proper in ways that are inhibiting. To be fastidious is to be disdainful and prideful and over think just about everythingâthe utter antithesis of unconsciousness. Moore clarifies her terms, however, by offering examples of what unconscious fastidiousness looks like:
Certain Ming
Products, imperial floor coverings of coach
Wheel yellow, are well enough in their way but I have seen something
That I like betterâa
Mere childish attempt to make an imperfectly ballasted animal stand up,
A determination ditto to make a pup
Eat his meat on the plate. (Becoming 215)
Beautiful carpets notwithstanding, the soul of âunconscious fastidiousnessâ lies in the act of trainingâor trying to trainâa puppy. The idea of getting a wee dog to walk on hind legs and eat from a plate seems absurdly fussy. Yet, Moore suggests, the activity is elementally different from a conscious effort to maintain propriety that is rooted in disdain. Teaching a wobbly little dog table manners is a âmere childishâ diversion, an inconsequential, playful, silly expression of affection. Such attention to detail is loving and not meant, as Moore would write in another poem about taste and distaste, to âset people right.â Mooreâs best example of âunconscious fastidiousnessâ is also one of feeding and being fed. The owner of the pup offers up food that the pup, it seems, is all too eager to eat. The puppy is the opposite of fussy. Puppy appetite constitutes a counter-force to any effort to exact fastidious control over lifeâs imperfections.
Indeed, as the next three stanzas of the poem reveal, the very notion of âconscious fastidiousnessâ that Moore wants so badly to critique is best imagined in the body of a picky eater:
I remember a black swan on the Cherwell in Oxford
With flamingo colored, maple-
Leaflike feet. It stood out to sea like a battle-
ship. Disbelief and conscious fastidiousness were the staple
Ingredients in its
Disinclination to move. Finally its hardihood was not proof against its
Inclination to detain and appraise such bits
Of food as the stream
Bore counter to it; it made away with what I gave it
To eat. I have seen this swan and
I have seen you; I have seen ambition without
Understanding in a variety of forms. Happening to stand
By an ant hill, I have
Seen a fastidious ant carrying a stick, north, south, east, west, till it turned on
Itself, struck out from the flower-bed into the lawn,
And returned to the point
From which it had started. Then abandoning the stick as
Useless and overtaxing his
Jaws with a particle of whitewash, pill-like but
Heavy, he again went through the same course of procedure.
(Becoming 215â216)
In the image of the Oxford swan, Moore conflates a closed mind that wonât accept new ideas with an unadventurous palate that wonât try new food . Mooreâs speaker offers up food to a bird that stands âout to sea like a battleship,â actively defending itself against anything that it doesnât immediately recognize as its usual fare. The swan, Moore states, is a creature of âstaple ingredients,â the routine stuff of a standard diet. While Moore depicts the puppy as an âimperfectly ballastedâ ship, a bundle of spontaneous energy bound to capsize, ...