Training for Climbing

The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance

Eric Horst

• Publisher: Falcon Guides
• Year: 2016
• eBook ISBN:
  9781493017621
• Edition: 3

Increase your strength, power, skill, and focus to maximize your climbing performance.

“Training for Climbing is a great resource. Whether you’re just starting out or already ticking 5.13, you’ll find valuable information here to help you climb harder. This is the most complete and up-to-date training guide available.” —Rock and Ice magazine

Drawing on the latest climbing research, this third edition of the international best-selling Training for Climbing presents a comprehensive, evidence-based program for improving climbing performance.

With the unique perspective of a veteran climber, researcher, and coach, Eric Hörst blends leading-edge sports science with his decades of climbing and coaching experience to create a content-rich text packed with practical how-to and what-to-do information.

A few of the new topics explored include:
• Energy system training to develop greater strength, power-endurance, and aerobic endurance.
• Recalibrating the brain’s central governor for higher power output and stamina.
• Daily Undulating Periodization as an effective method of on-season programming.
• “Training zones” for rock climbers—the secret to truly effective training!
• Stabilizer training to improve arm power and reduce risk of shoulder injury.

Also included are expanded chapters on developing strength, power, and endurance in the crucial finger flexor and pulling muscles, as well as a must-read chapter on developing exceptional core strength. Hörst completes his coaching with dedicated chapters on technique and mental training, performance nutrition, accelerating recovery, and injury prevention. The book’s 300-plus pages of expert instruction make for the most advanced and complete book of its type!

Eric Hörst is an internationally renowned author and a climber of forty years. As a researcher and coach, Hörst has written hundreds of articles and coached thousands of climbers from around the world. He owns the popular website Training4Climbing.com.

Table of contents

• Foreword
• Acknowledgments
• Introduction
• Chapter 1. An Overview of Training for Climbing
• Chapter 2. Self-Assessment and Goal Setting
• Chapter 3. Mental Training
• Chapter 4. Training Technique and Skill
• Chapter 5. The Physiology of Climbing
• Chapter 6. Mobility, Stability, Antagonist Training
• Chapter 7. Core, Legs, and Aerobic Training
• Chapter 8. Finger Training for Strength and Endurance
• Chapter 9. Pull-Muscle and Power Training
• Chapter 10. Designing Your Training Program
• Chapter 11. Performance Nutrition
• Chapter 12. Accelerating Recovery
• Chapter 13. Injury Treatment and Prevention
• Afterword
• Appendix A Muscular Anatomy
• Appendix B Training Charts
• Appendix C Self-Assessment Test Comments and Training Tips
• Glossary
• Suggested Reading
• References
• About the Author