When travelers talk about visiting the interior of Belize, they are usually referĀing to the lush, mountainous rainĀforĀests around the town of San Ignacio, long the heart of the countryās ecoĀtourism trade. The region is a nature-loverās fantasy come true. Spread out across a remote subtropical wilderness are dozens of cabaƱa-style lodges, many of them quite luxurious. Within striking distance ā by car, horseback, canoe, or foot ā are secluded, jungle-rimmed swimming holes, enormous limestone caverns, Belizeās most significant Maya ruins and CenĀtral Americaās highest waĀterĀfalls. The background music is the shriek of tropical birds, while iguanas, gibnuts, and skunks habitually stroll across the well-marked nature trails.
The Mopan River.
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Hand-winched ferry en route to Xunantunich.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Meanwhile, the rainĀforĀests are surprisingly free of BeĀlizeās least popular life form, the mosquito ā the highĀer altitude makes days around San Ignacio hot withĀout being overĀwhelmĀing, while eveĀnings can almost be deĀscribed as cool.
On the frontier with Guatemala, this is also one of the more Hispanic parts of Belize, populated largely by Spanish-speaking mestizos, and Maya farmers; Āsecond in numbers come creoles, followed by a classically Belizean smatĀterĀing of East Indians, Chinese, and LebĀaĀnese. Several large communities of Mennonites farm the rich land and can be seen clattering along the highways in horse-drawn carriages.
From Belize City, the journey west is itself an interesting one, with Belize Zoo (for more information, click here) just 30 minutes before you reach Belmopan on the George Price (Western) Highway, Guanacaste Park literally on the doorstep of the capital and St Hermanās Cave and the inland version of the Blue Hole just a few miles past Belmopan. All are popular, and worthwhile, detours. For curiosityās sake, you can, of course, stop in the capital, although even more than four decades after its establishment, Belmopan continues to remain largely the domain of government workers ā a far cry from the commercial social bustle of Belize City.
Streetside restaurant, Belmopan.
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Belmopan
FoundĀed in 1971, Belmopan 1 [map] is the Brazilia of Belize: an artificial capĀiĀtal that has never quite caught on. Government minĀisĀtries are based here, but most polĀiĀtiĀcians would rather commute from BeĀlize City than take up perĀmaĀnent resĀiĀdence.
Belmopan was former Prime Minister George Priceās vision of āa modern capital for an emergĀing naĀtion.ā The idea of an inland location had first been fielded after BeĀlize City was devastated by HurĀriĀcane Hattie in 1961. Price hoped that a planned city would attract Belizeans from all over the counĀtry, and Āeventually replace BeĀlize City as a commercial and culĀturĀal center. He also hoped it would centralize the govĀernĀment by bringing each ministry toĀgethĀer on the same compound with new, efĀfiĀcient facilities.
Things didnāt go quite so smoothĀly as on paper, however. The new government offices, designed to resemble a Maya temple and plaza, were much too small, so today many offices are located away from the center of town. Instead of cutĀting red tape, the move to Belmopan created it. Citizens had to travel all the way to the capital to have documents signed or obtain perĀmits. Before long, govĀernĀment branch offices in Belize City and other towns were given the same power as the head office in the capital.
The biggest problem of all was that Belizeans werenāt willing to move to ĀBelmopan ā and most still arenāt. Belmopanās population hovers around 12,000 inhabitants, many of whom are refugees from neighboring counĀtries in Central America. A large number of Belizeans who work here Ācommute the hour or so each way from Belize City or San Ignacio rather than live here full time. Even after Hurricane Mitch miraculously bypassed Belize in 1998 and forced thousands to bunk in with Belmopan relatives, there was no mass rush to move out of Belize City into the new capital. After considerable pressure from the government, the University College of Belize (now the University of Belize) finally agreed to expand its existing Belmopan Junior College and vacate most of its Belize City classrooms.
Itās not that Belizeans donāt like Belmopan, itās just that they find the town too quiet. With only a smattering of hotels and a few resĀtauĀrants, there isnāt much for the predominantly young, single, govĀernĀment employees to do for exĀciteĀment. One of the biggest events of the year is the National Agriculture and Trade Show, held in late April at the fairgrounds, which draws thousands for three days of exhibitions and soĀcialĀizĀing. BelĀmoĀpanās searing temperatures donāt help lure anyone to settle here either: in the middle of the day, itās rarely below 100Ā°F (40Ā°C) and noticeably devoid of breezes.
Apolitical center of politics
On the othĀer hand, the few who choose to live in Belmopan enjoy well-maintained roads, clean neighborhoods, and a low crime rate. Unlike Belize City, there is ample room for expansion. Belmopan residents also take in their stride the numerous Central American refugees in settlements like Salvapan, Las Flores, and Ten Cents Creek on the outskirts of town. The immigrants here have fitted in more easily than in other parts of Belize, taking jobs as domestic labĀorĀers, construction workers, street venĀdors, or milpa farmers, and sending their children to school. And, Belmopanās merchants and restaurant and bar owners welcome the new business.
National Assembly building, Belmopan.
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Road to Spanish Lookout.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Exploring the mini-capital
Belmopan has few historical monĀuĀments, and most of the buildings are administrative offices ā in 10 minutes on the Ring Road, you can take in all the sights. But if you have to go to Belmopan on business, or are making a stop en route to somewhere else, there are a few pleasant places to spend a couple of hours.
The best place to start is Market Square, which at any given moment is usually the busiest place in town: buses serving destinations all over Belize stop here and there are several banks, the Caladium restaurant, where the menu includes traditional Belizean and international dishes, smaller food stands, and shops nearby. Central American street vendors sell tasty corn and chicken tamales and other local goodies.
Among the cityās key national buildings are the National Archives, near the ring road and open to the public, which is used mostly for research and contains ...