What to Eat
Polish cuisine ranges from rich and substantial to light and elegant. Poles allow themselves a generous amount of time in order to enjoy their meals.
A classic lunch is usually composed of two courses, starting with a soup, such as barszcz (beetroot), żurek (sour rye), rosół (chicken broth) or pomidorowa (tomato). These are the most popular, but Polish cooks have an unlimited imagination as far as soups are concerned. For the main course you may want to try the national dish, schabowy z kapustą (breaded pork chops with sauerkraut), mielone (fried meatballs), bigos (sauerkraut with pieces of meat and sausage) or Kiev chicken. Finish on a sweet note with ice-cream or a piece of makowiec (poppy-seed cake) or drożdżówka (a type of yeast cake). Other Polish specialities include chłodnik (a chilled beetroot soup), golonka (pork knuckles cooked with vegetables), kołduny (meat dumplings), zrazy (slices of beef served with buckwheat) and flaki (tripe), plus the ubiquitous pierogi (dumplings) in all varieties. Roast duck and goose are also highly appreciated by foreigners. At the seaside or near lakes fresh fish is often served fried or grilled with mushrooms and sauce.
Traditional Polish cuisine is undergoing revolutionary changes as young chefs start experimenting with lighter dishes made with locally produced or freshly picked ingredients. Vegetarian and vegan options abound, as healthy living is encouraged. Gluten-free restaurants are also fashionable. Even fast foods have experienced a transformation, with the old zapiekankas (grilled baguettes with cheese, mushrooms and lots of ketchup) superseded by oriental kebabs, falafels and wonderful Italian pizzas, often prepared by immigrant Italian chefs.
What to Drink
Coffee or lemon tea (herbata) are favourite drinks and usually follow a meal. Poles prefer to drink vodka or piwo (beer) with their meals. Among the best-known brands are: Żywiec, Lech, Okocim and Warka. Most restaurants offer a selection of German and Czech beers. Stronger alcoholic drinks, usually brands of vodka such as Żubrówka, Wyborowa, Premium and Żytnia, are invariably present on every festive table. Finding good wine is easy.
Where to Eat
It is common that good, smart, well-managed restaurants are located in the Old Town of major cities. More and more restaurants are also serving foreign specialities, particularly Italian, Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese and French cuisine. A few restaurants serve traditional Jewish kosher fare. Most hotels have details of nearby restaurants.
A service charge is usually included in the price at restaurants, but it is customary to pay a figure rounded up by 5–10 percent in recognition of good service.
Milk bars (bar mleczny) are now almost a thing of the past but if you can find one, they make a good alternative to restaurants and are excellent value for money. Mainly self-service, cafeteria-style, they occupy simple premises and have a limited choice of basic dishes. Often you get a home-cooked and filling plate for very little. There are also a number of popular Oriental food bars (usually Chinese or Vietnamese) in the city centres. During the summer season in the tourist resorts along the Baltic Sea coast, stalls sell freshly caught baked or smoked fish.
Open: daily noon–10pm, Fri–Sat until midnight.
Owned by brothers who came to Warsaw from Mazuria district, this cosy bar in the Powiśle district is chiefly known for tasty soups and wonderful freshly smoked fish (trout). The owner says it comes from his private smokehouse, which explains its extraordinary taste. €€€
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