Saddling the Dogs

Journeys Through Egypt and the Near East

Deborah Manley, Diane Fortenberry

• Publisher: Oxbow Books
• Year: 2009
• eBook ISBN: 9781782973461
• Topic: History
• Subtopic: Ancient History
• Index: History

In the absence of horses, saddle the dogs. This Arab proverb, suggesting the uncompromising determination of nomads to keep moving, whatever the obstacles, epitomizes also the travelling ethos of many early visitors to the 'exotic East'. The journeys examined here are linked by the light they shed on the experience of travel in Egypt, Greece and the Ottoman Balkans, and the Near East from the 17th to the early 20th century not so much what was seen as how one got there and how one got around once arrived; the vicissitudes and travails, both expected and strange that characterised the passage. The purpose of the trips examined range from religious pilgrimages to diplomatic, commercial and military journeys, to middle-class package tours. Each of them is of interest for what it reveals about the realities of travel in Egypt, the eastern Mediterranean and the Near East at different times: the means by which travel was carried out, the dangers and discomforts encountered and the preparations made. The Association for the Study of Travel in Egypt and the Near East (ASTENE) is a registered educational charity promoting the study of the history of travel and travellers in the eastern Mediterranean, from Greece and the Ottoman Balkans eastward to Turkey and the Levant, Egypt, the Arabian Peninsula and the Mesopotamian region.

INDEX

Abbott, Henry, 102–3

Achmed Aga, 81, 82, 83, 84

Aleppo, H. Maudrell’s journey from to Jerusalem, 39; passage to from Basra, 30–1; plague in, 115–16, 117–18, 119, 120

Alexander, Constance, 44

Alexandria, J. Chmelíčik visits, 15–16; A. Dolák visits, 17–18; Philip Rhine-lander and friends tour, 97–8, 103

al-Ghazali, Abu Hamid Muhammad, 4

Allen, Mrs Horatio, 99

Alpinus, Prosper, 114

Andersen, Hans Christian, 97

Arbil, C. & M. Rich visit, 47

Arvieux, L. d’, 115

Aswan, Friends of the Orient Travel Club visit, 160–1; Philip Rhinelander and friends travel to, 101–3

Athens, Philip Rhinelander and friends tour, 97

Babylon, C. Rich’s memoir on ruins of, 41

Babylonia, 17th-century travel accounts, 25–37

Baghdad, Carré de Chambon reaches, 32; Claudius and Mary Rich travel to Constantinople from, 41–9, 44

Bartlett, William, 151

Basra, 17th-century travellers in, 30

Beawes, William, 51–2

Bird, Isabella, 145

Bisutun, Coste and Flandin visit, 63–4, 64

Blunt, Anne, 150

Boccaccio, 117

Bode, Baron, 72, 73

Boott, Francis, 116–17

Bozzari, Katharina, 97

Bozzaris, Markos, 97

British Museum, West Asia collection, 41

Bruyn, Cornelius de, 61

Bryant, William Cullen, 97

Burton, Richard, 144

Busch, Moritz, guidebook to Egypt, 20

Byron, George Gordon Lord, 41

Cafavy, Constantine, v

Cailliaud, Frédéric, 85, 89

Cairo, A. Dolák visits, 18–19, 20; Friends of the Orient Travel Club visit, 159; Philip Rhinelander ...

Table of contents

• Cover
• Title Page
• Copyright
• Contents
• Introduction
• Death and Disorder in Muhammad Sadiq’s Star of the Hajj: Steamships, Quarantine and their Impact on the Muslim Body
• Modern Pilgrims in Egypt and the Holy Land: A Case Study
• Facing Travels, Shaping Worlds: Three 17th-century Mesopotamian Travel Accounts
• From Baghdad to Constantinople on Horseback: A Journey by Claudius and Mary Rich, October–December 1813
• Pascal Coste and Eugène Flandin: Voyage en Perse
• Khalil Aga: A Lost American on the Nile
• An American Tourist in 1839: Philip Rhinelander Visits the Mediterranean
• ‘The Contagion followed, and vanquish’d them’: Plague, Travellers and Lazarettos
• The 6th Earl of Hopetoun Prepares for the Nile
• The Tedious Camel
• Travel Clubs in the Era of the First Czechoslovak Republic
• Index