1
BORDEAUX â BEGINNINGS
After Paris, probably no French city was more affected by the drama of the fall of France and the early months of the German occupation than Bordeaux.
On 10 June 1940, with the sound of German artillery ringing in their ears, the French government fled Paris. Four days later they set up their new emergency wartime capital in Bordeaux. As newcomers, they were not alone. The city was already bursting with a vast tide of humanity, which the French christened the Exode â the great exodus of refugees desperately fleeing south to avoid the advancing German armoured columns.
Historically this was not a new experience for Bordeaux. Twice before the city had acted as the emergency capital and chief refuge of France: during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870 and again in 1914. But everyone sensed that this time was going to be different. This time it was going to be not just a military defeat, but a national catastrophe in which all would be engulfed.
The last scenes of Franceâs tragedy were swiftly acted out.
On the evening of 16 June 1940, General de Gaulle, who had been sent to London to secure the support of the British, flew back to MĂ©rignac airport outside Bordeaux in a plane which Churchill had placed at his disposal. He booked into the HĂŽtel Majestic and arranged an urgent interview with Marshal PĂ©tain, who was headquartered next door at the HĂŽtel Splendid. The interview was short and fruitless. De Gaulle promised Churchillâs help and pleaded with the old marshal to begin the fight back. But it was too late; the die was already cast. Later that day the French prime minister resigned and Marshal Philippe PĂ©tain, the hero of Verdun in the First War, began negotiating an armistice with the Germans. Disgusted, de Gaulle returned to MĂ©rignac and, on the morning of 17 June, took off for London accompanied by four clean shirts, a spare pair of trousers, 100,000 gold francs and the honour of France. The day after, he made the first of his great speeches from the British capital, appealing to all French men and women to rally to his cause and rescue their country from the shame of defeat.
Initially, however, the generalâs impassioned pleas fell mostly on deaf ears. The mood in France following its rout was predominantly one of stunned apathy. âThe population was, if not pro-German, at least disposed to do nothing if they were left alone,â one senior German intelligence officer put it.
Under the terms of the armistice signed by PĂ©tain, France was divided by a demarcation line â in practical terms, an internal frontier â running from the Lake of Geneva to the Pyrenees. This separated the northern, occupied zone â a virtual annex of Germany â from the zone non-occupĂ©e, governed by PĂ©tainâs Vichy government in the south. In the Bordeaux region the demarcation line ran along a northâsouth axis forty kilometres east of the city, and encompassed in the German zone not just the great port itself, but also the entire Atlantic coast south of the MĂ©doc peninsula. Security along the Atlantic coastline was further supplemented by a ten-kilometre-deep zone interdite from which all French citizens were banned, unless in possession of a special pass.
The Germans acted swiftly to take control of the occupied zone, not least by requisitioning a number of key addresses in the French capital, most infamously 82â84 Avenue Foch (soon rechristened by Parisians âAvenue Bocheâ). Here they established the headquarters of the main state security organisations â the Abwehr (officially the spy service for the German army); the Gestapo (which from mid-1942 would be responsible for all intelligence-gathering on Resistance movements in occupied territories); the Geheime Feldpolizei (GFP), the police arm of the Abwehr; and the Sicherheitsdienst (SD), reporting directly to Heinrich Himmler at his headquarters in Berlin. The SD was originally tasked to root out domestic dissent in Germany, but it soon also expanded its activities into the occupied territories, establishing a strong intelligence presence in Paris and Bordeaux, where it would increasingly use the Gestapo as its action arm for arrests and interrogation.
At 11 a.m. on 28 June, less than a fortnight after de Gaulle left the city, the newly appointed German commandant of Bordeaux and its region, General von Faber du Faur, entered his new residence in the city, an imposing townhouse on the Rue Vital Carles. Here the préfet of the Gironde presented him with a magnificent welcoming bouquet of flowers in a fine cut crystal vase.
The city which formed the heart of the generalâs new command was â and still is â one of the most beautiful and venerable in all France. Lying along a crescent-moon-shaped curve of the Garonne river (from which the city gets its nickname, the âPort de la Luneâ), Bordeaux had been a port since Roman times, shipping iron and tin from its quays; in later centuries, slaves, coffee, cotton, indigo and agricultural products were added to the trade. But the most valuable of all Bordeauxâs commodities â and central to the regionâs wealth and dignity â was wine. From the great clarets of the MĂ©doc, to the Graves and Sauternes of the Garonne valley, to the cognac grapes of Charentes â Bordeauxâs rich hinterlands of vineyards made the city affluent, proud, and uncompromisingly mercantile in its outlook.
In the pre-war years the entire port area had been rebuilt and renovated, from the working district of Bacalan at the northern end, south along the sweep of the Quai des Chartrons, to the elegant parks and apartments near the city centre. The most modern cranes were installed, a small-gauge railway was constructed, new warehouses were established, tarmac was laid in place of cobbles and a brand-new tram system was inaugurated to link the port to the rest of the city. Bordeaux was, at the fall of France, not only one of the most beautiful, but also one of the most modern ports in the whole of Europe. On still days a thin diaphanous haze, caused by the incessant bustle of the great port, hung over the city. In stormy weather, the wind funnelled down narrow streets, whipping the harbour into white-topped rufflets and sweeping fallen leaves from the cityâs plane trees into drifts along the gutters and neat piles in the sheltered corners of alleyways and squares.
Back from the waterfront, the city of 1940 was little changed from the previous two centuries. Its imposing centre, dominated by the town hall, the eighteenth-century HĂŽtel de Ville, boasted impeccably manicured tree-lined squares, fine restaurants and elegant frontages. These led to broad boulevards radiating out towards the portâs trading and residential quarters. Beyond the main roads, this was a city of little restaurants, cafĂ©s, scurrying markets and narrow cobbled streets, lined with shops and first-floor apartments. Here a cacophony of humanity jostled with a jumble of cars, vĂ©lo-taxis, bicycles, lorries, barrows and horse-drawn carts.
The cityâs political landscape was also one of contrast. During the 1930s, communism found a strong foothold amongst Franceâs intellectuals and working classes. Most of the dockworkers, who lived in the cityâs crowded Bacalan quarter â where the restaurants were as rough as the wine they served â were, if not communist, then communist sympathisers; as were the cheminots (the railway workers) and the post office workers. In the countryside, too, especially in the Landes region lying between Bordeaux and the Pyrenees, communism and socialism had strong roots. Many of the Bordelais, however, regarded communism with a fear amounting almost to paranoia â seeing it as some kind of modern reincarnation of the sans-culottes of the French Revolution. A secret British wartime report observed that â[amongst] the upper bourgeoisie [there is] an apprehension of Russia and a real fear of the former French Communists and of the mob ⊠[they believe that] only evil can come to France from the disorder which would follow the coming to power of the extreme leftâ.
Those in charge of mercantilist Bordeaux were above all pragmatists. What was good for trade was good for the city. Foreigners came and foreigners went. But if trade (and especially the wine trade) went on, the city prospered, whoever was in charge. The cityâs bourgeoisie and petit-bourgeoisie embraced the politics of conservatism and of âorderâ. Among these classes, right or centre-right views were dominant, extreme right nationalism not unusual, and anti-Semitism commonplace.
âEnglandâ, regarded by some in France as the centre of modern Jewry, was often thrown into this mix of political foes. âThe English, the yids, the capitalists, these are the true enemies of France which is threatened, like every other country, by the Bolshevik sword of Damocles,â declared one local right-wing activist of the time. When it came to anti-Semitism, Bordeaux was by no means unusual in the France of the 1930s and â40s. âThe Jewish question was a subject of lively discussion in France at the time,â one respected French commentator wrote. âThere was a strong resurgence of anti-Jewish sentiment in the period before the war and during the years of the Vichy government.â
Von Faber du Faur did not waste time imposing his rule on the city. He laid on a grand military parade through the streets of Bordeaux, designed not just as a spectacle, but also as a show of force. The salute was taken by, amongst others, Erwin Rommel (who requisitioned a nearby chĂąteau for holiday use). On 1 July 1940 a curfew, enforced by armed soldiers with dogs, was imposed between 2300 and 0500 hours, with curfew-breakers risking long terms of imprisonment or forced labour. All clocks were advanced one hour to match German time. All firearms, including hunting weapons, had to be handed in to the local mairies; all official notices (including street signs and administrative requests) had to be in German as well as French, and the swastika emblazoned on a red banner was hung outside all principal official buildings. Controls were introduced on traffic in the Gironde estuary and on all major road intersections and railway stations. In time, German oversight would be extended to cover the postal service, telecommunications, newspapers, cinemas, cultural events, agriculture (including, inevitably, wine), commercial transactions, the refining and distribution of petroleum products and the passage of goods and people over the demarcation line into Vichy France. Laws were passed to require farmers to give up a percentage of their produce to the German occupiers â though in most cases, thanks to peasant cunning, these were honoured more in the breach than the observance. German soldiers were under strict instructions to behave politely towards the French, and mostly did. But the terms of occupation were clear. On 10 October 1940 the cityâs military administration published a decree stating: âAnyone who gives shelter to a member of the British Forces will be condemned to death.â
Almost overnight, it seemed, the German authorities also established an iron grip on the region, turning the whole of the Gironde estuary and the MĂ©doc peninsula into one gigantic military base. Concrete pens were constructed in Bordeaux harbour to house the German submarines engaged in the deadly business of cutting the Atlantic lifeline on which Britain depended to save it from starvation. Italian submarines also had a base in the city. The Bordeaux quays were fortified with concrete pillboxes, a system of interlocking trenches and underground bunkers. This would soon also become the base for a small fleet of converted merchantmen which â fast, lightly armed and German-crewed â acted as blockade-runners, bringing in vital raw materials from Japanese-occupied territories in the Far East.
The Atlantic beaches running south from the mouth of the Gironde, considered a likely place for an Allied invasion, were fortified with a network of defences, including heavy coastal guns in thick concrete casemates; searchlights; numerous machine-gun nests, and a small fleet of riverine patrol vessels. Some 60,000 German troops were stationed in and around Bordeaux. By the end of the war, this would include two infantry divisions, a Panzer division and an army headquarters. A Luftwaffe force of 150 aircraft was assembled at Mérignac airport and on small local airfields. Kriegsmarine units were brought in to protect the Gironde and the coastal waters of the Gulf of Aquitaine.
The city itself was soon crammed full of German troops and dotted with a profusion of headquarters for the major military units, which jostled with buildings housing the German harbour authorities, civil government and the various security organisations charged with keeping order. A requisitioned passenger liner, the Baudouinville â last used by the Belgian cabinet when they took the fateful decision to surrender â was brought to Bordeaux and tied up along the quay at the Place des Quinconces as overflow billeting for German and Italian troops. There was also an array of soldiersâ brothels and watering holes: the Lion Rouge nightclub was specially reserved for Wehrmacht officers, the CĂŽtelette for Abwehr intelligence officers, and the Blaue Affe (the Blue Monkey) for ordinary soldiers.
For most citizens of Bordeaux, shortages now became a way of life. The price of baby milk rose by fifty per cent; fish was limited to one tin of sardines per month and sugar was almost unobtainable. Even saccharine tablets were rationed to a hundred pills per person for every six months. Shopkeepers had to accept the Reichsmark at an exorbitant fixed rate of exchange and butchers were prohibited from selling meat on Wednesday and Thursday, with Friday reserved for horsemeat and tripe only. Most metal came from recycled stock. Leather was only available on the black market, or with an official authorisation; gloves and belts were difficult to find and most shoes had only wooden soles. There was a severe shortage of elastic (though this did not affect the availability of ladiesâ suspenders, one British secret agent noted, cheerfully). German soldiers had priority on public transport, and horses were used extensively. Real coffee was such a valuable commodity that it became an article of barter, with most cafĂ©s and restaurants serving a roasted acorn substitute christened âcafĂ© PĂ©tainâ. Unsurprisingly â and very quickly â a flourishing and all-pervasive black market was established, as the French population in both town and country tried to find ways round these new discomfitures in their daily lives.
Despite this â and contrary to the early hopes of the intelligence community in London, who claimed that âoccupied Europe was smouldering with Resistance to the Nazis and ready to erupt at the slightest support or encouragementâ â secret feelers put out by the British and the Free French reported that the âspirit of Resistanceâ in the city was depressingly frail. âBordeaux was not a town for Resistance. It was more a town for collaborators. Most of our activity was outside Bordeaux,â one early British agent concluded.
It was not long before a climate of suspicion began to infect Bordeaux city life. People tended not to speak to each other in the streets and tried to avoid speaking at all to those they did not know for fear of agents provocateurs and collaborators. One commentator said, âNeighbours reported confidentially on one another. People were denounced for anti-German sentiments and for listening to foreign news broadcasts.â Another, describing the attitude of the average Bordelais, reported, tartly: â[They believed] their duty as patriotic Frenchmen was more than adequately fulfilled by listening to BBC London in their slippers in front of the fire,â adding, âinfluenced by German propaganda [the Bordelais] were terrified of Communism and of losing their moneyâ.
Though they found German rule irksome, the people of Bordeaux were, for the most part, content to continue with their lives quietly and as best they could in the circumstances. The great biannual spring and autumn fair took place as usual in the Place des Quinconces. Photographs from 1940 show unarmed German soldiers mingling with local crowds on the fairground rides. That year, as every year in the past, the Amar Circus â complete with lions, elephants, tigers and clowns â made the journey from Paris to play to full houses on the Bordeaux quays. La Petite Gironde, a broadly collaborationist Bordeaux daily newspaper, advised that the proper attitude to the occupation should be to âunderstand and be resignedâ â a proposition which many in the city followed.
Even when the Germans began a drive against the cityâs Jews, sentiment in the city remained largely unmoved. On 27 August 1940, a Jewish man, Laiser Israel Karp, was summarily condemned to death for raising his fist at a German parade. On 17 October a notice was issued requiring all Jews and Jewish enterprises in the city to register. Five days later, 5,172 Jews and 403 Jewish businesses had complied. Early in 1941, Jews were banned from seventeen public places in the city, including all parks, theatres and cinemas and many schools. A year later the Vichy authorities in Bordeaux hosted a travelling exhibition with a strong anti-Semitic theme. Entitled âThe Jews and Franceâ, it proved a huge success in the city, attracting 60,000 local citizens through its doors.
During the course of 1941, however, as the German occupiers reacted to provocations and attacks with increasing ferocity, the mood in Bordeaux â as across the rest of France â began to shift. On 20 October the German military commander in Nantes was assassinated and the following day the weighted-down body of Hans Reimers, an officer in the Wehrmacht, was discovered in Bordeaux harbour. Hitler insisted on responding to these âoutragesâ with maximum severity, overruling appeals from German military commanders in France for a more restrained response. In Bordeaux, fifty civilian hostages, most of them suspected communist sympathisers, were taken to the old French military camp at Souge, fifteen kilometres west of the city, and executed. They were the first of 257 âResistance martyrsâ who would die before German firing squads at Souge before the war was over. More attacks were followed by more reprisals and, as French outrage grew, the ranks of resistants began to swell.
In November 1941, a special French police brigade under the command of a ruthless pro-German Frenchman called Pierre Napoléon Poinsot, was established in close cooperation with the German authorities to tackle the new threat. His first act was to launch a major drive against the communists. In sweeps, notably in the Bacalan quarter of the city, and in a number of rural communities in the Gironde region, hundreds of suspects, men and women, were arrested and incarcerated in an internment camp at Mérignac.
By now executions and deportations had become an established part of the German system of control and repression. According to secret British estimates, across France a total of 5,599 people were executed and 21,863 deported in the last quarter of 1942 alone. Resistance organisations started to spring up in Bordeaux and its hinterland. Some of these were small, personal and informal. Others were part of larger information-gathering networks. Many were under the control of foreign intelligence services, notably the British Secret Intelligence Service (SIS â also known as MI6), the Free French in London and the Polish secret service. By the end of 1941 there were no less than nine of these foreign-controlled spy networks tripping over each other in Bordeaux and the Gironde. In addition there were also numerous smaller âprivateâ Resistance fiefdoms, such as the one run by Raymond Brard, the head of the Bordeaux port fire brigade, whose network was based on the membership of a weight-lifting and âGironde wrestlingâ club in a city backstreet.
One of the first of these âprivateâ initiatives was established at the end of August 1940, just ten weeks after de Gaulle left France. Its founders were two neighbours who lived on the Bordeaux waterfront.
Jean DubouĂ©, a strikingly handsome man of imposing build with a strong face and a direct, challenging gaze, was already an established figure in Bordeaux. Forty-three years old when the Second World War began, this was not DubouĂ©âs first conflict. He had been wounded in one of Franceâs bloodiest calvaries of 1914â18: the battle of the Chemin des Dames. A self-made man, DubouĂ© had left school in Bordeaux aged twelve to work down the coal mines of the Basque Country. Returning to Bordeaux, he began a new career as a restaurateur, managing the Grand CafĂ© du Commerce et de Tourny, one of Bordeauxâs most prestigious restaurants. From here he branched out with his own businesses. One was the CafĂ© des Marchands, a modest restaurant and boarding house frequented by dockers and travelling salesmen on the Quai des Chartrons. By the end of the 1930s, DubouĂ©âs businesses were doing well enough for him to purchase a country retreat southeast of Bordeaux, where he, his wife Marie-Louise and daughter Suzanne spent every weekend and most holidays.
His co-conspirator, Léo PaillÚre, recently demobilised and an ex-captain of infantry in the First World War, was, at fifty, older than Duboué. A man of distinctly right-wing tendencies, PaillÚre lived with his wife Jeanne and their five sons next door to the Café des Marchands.
During late 1940 and early 1941, DubouĂ© and PaillĂšre set about recruiting a number of friends as agents. They gathered intelligence on German positions, troop movements, weapons and ships in the port â especially the blockade-runners and submarines. The intelligence ...