THE SPRING OF 1970 WAS A LITTLE LATE FOR Joni Mitchell to be dropping in on Matala. In 1968, Life magazine had printed a lavishly illustrated seven-page cover story on the townâs flourishing expatriate hippie culture. In a rocky beach cove just outside the village of about seventy-five people, Life reported, Americaâs disaffected youth was taking up residence in a merry beehive of cliff caves. The freckled and wholesome Rick Heckler and Cathy Goldman, a kind of countercultural Adam and Eve, adorned the cover: âYoung American nomads abroad, two Californians at home in a cave in Matala, Crete.â Some of the kids were âmerely off on a lark, doing what the young have done for generations,â sympathized Life writer Thomas Thompson. But there were âtoo many others caught up in some sort of aimless journey toward an unknown destination.â Even Ulysses, who was fabled to have stopped off at Matala, had been trying to get home. This self-indulgent generation, the writerâs tone suggested, was rejecting everything his readers had struggled to build. These kids were running off to live in caves after all.
But a lot had changed in the two years since the Matala cave colony received such prominent mainstream coverage. By the time Mitchell arrived, parents were not shocked so much as disappointed when their promising college graduate children eschewed gainful employment for a rocky cave somewhere in Greece. Some of those parents were even beginning to work a Matala hippie tour into their sightseeing swings through the islands. Enterprising Greek villagers had put up a concrete parking lot in the muddy town square for the tourists.
If you had to arrive after they paved paradise, it was even more unfashionable to come as Joni Mitchell did, in pleated pants, looking like the successful California recording artist she was. It was pretty fancy attire for a place where kids would drive fifty miles to sell their blood for 350 drachma at the IrĂĄklion hospital. Of course, some of those kids were only playing at poverty; others would be living with it more permanently. The appeal of Matala was that these two kinds of cave dwellersâthe middle-class dropouts and the poor kidsâcould enjoy the same low-rent, high-principled existence there. Idealism was the great leveler.
In talking to some of the people who were in Matala at the time, I discovered something about the culture of the place. On the island back then, cave dwellers loved to talk about Matalaâs history, bypassing Americaâs recent troubled past for nostalgic refuge in the birthplace of Western civilization. Hippies would refer with equal credulity and confidence to the myth that Ulysses himself had stopped there and the fact that the caves had been cut into the accommodating sandstone in Neolithic times. The ancients had used the caves as burial sites, someone had heard. Pirates stored their spoils there. At one time it was a leper colony. The point was, the cave dwellers were the latest in a long lineage of outcasts and freaks, the kind of people who make their own way. The sheer yellow-gray cliff reaching out like a long cradling arm into the Mediterranean was a visual reminder that hippies had come there to âput out,â as the New Testament said metaphorically, âinto deep water.â That water as seen from the caves was emerald or sapphire or turquoise, depending on the day or who was looking. Always a rich, jewel-toned hueâin the cave dwellersâ estimation, it was such an elemental place that the water seemed to be its own reward.
In the caves, last names had as little meaning as time. One guy went by Proteus. Another was known as Yogi Joe. In spite of her striking Scandinavian beautyâinfinite blond hair, tall, lean frameâand fine, well-pressed clothes, the practice of dressing for a trip a holdover from her small-town Saskatchewan youth, Mitchell arrived pretty anonymously too. Most of the cave dwellers had been checked out of the culture since Joni had achieved some success. Just that month Mitchell had received a Grammy for âBest Folk Performanceâ for her album Clouds. Even back in the United States, many people didnât know she was the one whoâd written their generational anthem, âWoodstock,â capturing in it the alluring prelapsarian notion of getting âback to the garden.â Crosby, Stills and Nash sang and owned the song just as various other performers were largely credited with Mitchellâs other popular songs: Tom Rush for âUrge for Going,â Buffy Sainte-Marie for âThe Circle Game,â and Judy Collins for âBoth Sides, Now.â It would be a couple of years before Joni Mitchell posters would grace thousands of dorm room walls.
Mitchell was hoping to blend in with the crowd. She was looking for an escape, as well as a little fun. She was in crisis. In January, she had announced a break from touring, canceling appearances at Carnegie and Constitution halls. She played a final show at Royal Festival Hall in London and returned home to finish Ladies of the Canyon. She thought sheâd retreat in Laurel Canyon, her leafy eucalyptus haven rising into the hillside, home to her friends, who happened to be some of rockâs strongest talents, including her lover Graham Nash.
âI was being isolated, starting to feel like a bird in a gilded cage,â she told Rolling Stone reporter Larry LeBlanc later that year at the Mariposa Festival, after she had returned from her travels. âI wasnât getting a chance to meet people. A certain amount of success cuts you off in a lot of ways. You canât move freely. I like to live, be on the streets, to be in a crowd and moving freely.â Already, some of her best music had been stimulated by travel. A clarinetist whom she saw playing on a London street inspired âFor Free.â âBig Yellow Taxi,â which along with âThe Circle Gameâ was the closest she had ever come to a sing-along hit, was composed when she was on vacation in Hawaii and looked out her hotel window to see a parking lot in paradise. Life in the studio and on tour could become self-referential, and Mitchell was keen to escape the industry for a while. âThe experiences I was having were so related to my work. It was reflected in the music,â she said. âI thought Iâd like to write on other themes. In order to do this, I had to have other experiences.â She wanted to become her own muse again. Travel would force her to greet each day, person, and scene with a fresh perspective.
There were other reasons Mitchell wished she âhad a river to skate away on,â as she sang in âRiver,â a song sheâd written that winter. She couldnât shake her reputation as an angelic folksinger, which had plagued her ever since Rolling Stone had called her the âpenny yellow blonde with a vanilla voiceâ upon her recording debut in 1968. Also annoying was the constant confusion with Joan Baez and Judy Collins, which had something do with the similarity of their names, true, but Mitchell also saw it as proof that no one was interested in hearing the growing musical complexity that distinguished her from those folk maidens. Worse, her record label, Reprise Records, was making it its business to sell her as a countercultural mascot. Upon the release of Ladies of the Canyon, Reprise took out an advertorial in Rolling Stone with a fictional story about a very hip chickâthe sort who tie-dyes curtains for her Volkswagen vanâwhoâs been through a bad breakup but finds solace in the combination of a strong joint and Mitchellâs new record. No hippie Madonna, Mitchell needed a break from her own love life: her life with Graham Nash had certainly seemed idyllic in his 1969 song âOur House,â but she had turned down Grahamâs marriage proposal, realizing she couldnât settle down with him. Maybe sheâd find out exactly why on the road.
Mitchell did have one standout hippie prop on hand in Matala. A few months earlier, she had commissioned a mountain dulcimer from a local Los Angeles artisan, Joellen Lapidus, and she took her new instrument on the road. The dulcimerâs soft but bright drone served Mitchell well in the nightly cave music circles, where she held it across her lap, strumming melodies with a flat pick and sliding depressions of the strings to create her own accompaniment while she sang. There was no room for dancing in the caves, so Yogi Joe performed hand dances that cast surreal shadows on the cave walls.
In Matala, Mitchell sometimes borrowed a Gibson guitar from Johnny McKenzie. When he played his songs for her, he remembers her commenting that David Crosby would have liked them. Theyâd hike together through the fields, looking at peasants walking donkeys in the rustic countryside. Johnny told Mitchell heâd chased a woman across Europe and was sad because he knew sheâd never belong to him. âIf you want that girl,â he also remembers her saying, âgive her a baby.â Heâs glad he didnât do that, no matter how heartbroken he was then.
By mid-April, five weeks into her stay, Mitchellâalong with the promise of free foodâwas the main draw of a highly anticipated event advertised as the âMatala Hippie Convention,â which worried the local Cretan authorities. But pretty much just the same old cave crowd showed up to hear Mitchell sing Bob Dylanâs âMr. Tambourine Man,â a tune sheâd never consent to do back home. By then she was ready to go. When youâre running away itâs easy to run in the wrong direction. Matala was the kind of place where you went to get free but ended up a prisoner in something like Platoâs cave allegory. Ensconced in the countercultural lifestyle, the shapes of the outside world began to appear less real than hand shadows on the cave walls. Back in 1968, when the Life magazine reporter had relayed the news of Bobby Kennedyâs death and met with no reaction, let alone the stunned grief he expected, he asked, âIs this the new phenomenon? Running away from America and running away from emotion?â âBack to the Gardenâ had bucolic overtones. But back to the caves? âEverybody was getting a little crazy there,â Mitchell said. âEverybody was getting more and more into open nudity. They were really going back to the caveman. They were wearing little loincloths.â
It didnât look like the free-spirited vagabond role suited her any better than those of iconic folk maiden or someoneâs old lady. Sheâd have to keep trying to get out from under the myths that other people imposed on herâand that she sometimes imposed on herself. Mitchell knew the cavesâ communal life was too distracting for an artist. Now, work would come more easily away from Crete, back in the city. As Annie Dillard wrote, sometimes artists need a room with no view, a place where imagination can meet memory in the dark.
Mitchell arrived late to Matala but left just in time. As Johnny McKenzie remembers it, that was âjust after the tourists climbed down the one-bucket wellâ to bathe, and âjust before electricity came.â Often on trips to Crete, the Greek island shuttle boat seemed as if it would sink in the seaâs huge waves. McKenzie and Joni took the same boat on the return trip, and he says the Mediterranean was so calm that it reflected Mitchellâs face like a mirror. After so many salt baths, she was looking scruffy enough to resemble the hippie Madonna she was reputed to be.
But Mitchellâs listeners already know this. Or at least have sensed it. The hippie travel, the escape from the bonds of marriage, the grand dance between romance and disillusionment, the emerging realization that oneâs true motives and feelings are not as pure as hoped. We know what she was fighting and seeking as she left Matala and headed to maybe Amsterdam, or maybe Rome, where sheâd rent a grand piano and put some flowers round her room. Itâs there in the confidences and professions of her music.
âBlue is partly a diary,â Joni told me. âItâs me moving through the backdrop of our changing times. I was in Matala and we got beach tar on our feet and then I went to Ibiza and I went to a party down a red dirt road, then I went to Paris where it was too old and cold and everything was done. But itâs also more than a diary. Itâs one chapter in the Great American Novel of my work.â
THE SOUND OF âALL I WANTâ is earthy, strong, and high-toned, attuned to a Mediterranean landscape. You might think you hear a rhythm section. Itâs actually just Mitchell alone, slapping her dulcimerâs strings in a calypso beat while a drone adds a tinge of contemplation. After a few bars of these rhythm chords, she brings in some harmony at an odd interval, a fourth, its sense of suspension heightened by the dulcimerâs thin tone. The music moves in a headlong rush, on an exuberant, high-strung search for something.
When Mitchell begins singing, the music has already conveyed mood so vividly that even the simplest lyrics register great poetic impact.
Lyrics and music are so intricately combined that listening is a pleasant confusion of word and sound. The splitting open of self in the lyrics is like a minor chord with no possibility or need of resolution. This is an aural postcard from the edge of feeling, and its intensity is expressed in odd intervals, rhythmic energy, and the strangely thin over-strummed timbre of the dulcimer.
Even back in 1970, smoking has already thickened Mitchellâs vocal cords and brought her upper range down from the helium highs of earlier records like Clouds. But the awareness of her own imperfection gives her voice new grit and backbone: even up high she can no longer be mistaken for Snow White singing to birds, as was sometimes the case on her earlier folk-inflected records.
James Taylor joins in on guitar, mellowing and warming the tune. He plays chords, mostly, momentarily breaking those chords into chains of notes that relax the music and add a little leaf and vine to the landscape. Taylor and Mitchell were in love when the recording was made, but this is tempered by Mitchellâs lyrical admission that love can be tainted by other emotions.
Along with its spare arrangement, this animate truth makes âAll I Wantâ as affecting now as it was when first released in 1971. Above all, thereâs more raw emotion and nerve than anything Mitchell had done before. âI was demanding of myself a greater and greater honesty,â she said of the period in which she recorded the song in a 2003 PBS interview, âso that it strikes against the very nerves of peopleâs lives.â Like the other songs she wrote in 1970 and recorded on Blue, âAll I Wantâ has the sound of dawning self-knowledge. The music has shades of an intensely interior existence confronting the big sky and open water of experience. Because thatâs how Joni Mitchellâs life played out that year. Mitchell went out traveling to find herself and is telling us what she found. Just after the record was finished, she played it for some songwriter friends.
ZEUS WAS BORN twelve miles north of Matala and about several hundred miles south of the place he proclaimed the center of the earth: Delphi, where heaven and earth met, where man was closest to the gods. In Delphi, the oracle received the god Apolloâs first commandment: âKnow thyself.â This notion of the self as the passageway of spiritual ascent was so central to the Greek worldview that Apolloâs directive was inscribed over the oracleâs doorway.
Knowing yourself is one thing. Writing, or singing, or even just revealing that self-knowledge to others is another. How did we get from knowing yourself to baring yourself so nakedly that people recommend that you just clam up? For that, we have to look away from Delphi, south of Matala, as Mitchell did when she sang, âThe wind is in from Africa / Last night I couldnât sleep.â As a resident of the seaside cliff caves, you heard and felt the sorokos howling from the Sahara, carrying scorched dust or the rough dream-robbing phantom of it, all the way from Libya. While Mitchellâs self-observation stems from ancient Greece, the fact that she told us about her sleeplessnessâher very act of letting us in on itâcan be traced back across the Mediterranean to the North Africa of the fourth century. There was of course an intervening millennium or so and lots of significant literary and social history around the world. But essentially, it all goes back to Tagaste, near ancient Carthage, where St. Augustine of Hippo was born. It was Augustine who first defined and exemplified the practice of revealing the self and its history in words, thereby inventing autobiography in the Western world.
In 397, when Augustine began to write the thirteen books of his Confessions, he had been a baptized Catholic for ten years and a bishop for two. Ordination sat rather uneasily with Augustine. He wanted a monastic life rather than his bishopâs church service job, which carried a magistrateâs tedious responsibilities. By training, he was a rhetorician, the late Roman periodâs equivalent of a man of letters, but thatâs not why he wrote the Confessions. He addresses that issue, for God and for us, at the beginning of Book 1. âWhy then do I put before you in order the stories of so many things?â Well, itâs because heâs lost. âI have become an enigma to myself,â he says, âand herein lies my sickness and inner struggle.â Since his own questing mind is his closest companion, Augustine has the bright idea of using that mind to objectify and understand himself. In merging Augustine the pro...