Rhodes is an easy island to explore, with a good road network and public transport for independent sightseeing. The old quarters of Rhodes Town and LĂndos are mostly car-free, and make ideal places to wander through on foot. There are also numerous tour companies for those who want an organised itinerary.
This guide is divided into several sections, exploring Rhodes Old and New Town first. Then thereâs a tour of the eastern coast, with a separate section for the ancient settlement of LĂndos and the area south of it, followed by another section covering the western side of the island. Finally, day excursions are suggested.
Rhodes Old Town
Nothing quite prepares you for the spectacle of Rhodes Old Town (RĂłdos) 1 [map] , especially seen from an approaching boat. An immense citadel with high sandstone walls 4km (2.5 miles) around, facing the townâs three natural harbours, it has survived various sieges and bombardments, plus the visibly corrosive effects of damp sea air.
Columns at the partially reconstructed Hellenistic stoa on the acropolis at LĂndos
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Built on the site of ancient Rhodes, itself founded some four centuries prior to the birth of Christ, the Old Town served from 1309 onwards as the headquarters of the Knights Hospitaller of St John, one of the most powerful of the Christian military orders. Originally established to provide medical care for pilgrims on their journeys to the Holy Land, they soon became one of the leading military opponents of Islam, harrying both Arab and Kurdish armies and later the Ottoman Empire.
In December 1522, after a long siege, Ottoman forces wrested Rhodes from the grasp of the crusader-knights and inaugurated nearly four centuries of Muslim Turkish rule. Vestiges of their influence are still obvious within the walls. The turn of the 20th century saw accelerated Ottoman decline and, in 1912, following the Italian-Turkish War, the Dodecanese islands (including Rhodes) were occupied by Italy. In contrast to Ottoman neglect, the Italians invested considerable effort and money into the Isole Italiane dâEgeo (Italian Islands of the Aegean), as they styled this cherished Mediterranean colony.
In the northernmost sector of the Old Town is the Knightsâ Quarter or Collachium (kollĂĄkio in Greek), where each of eight langues (nationalities) within the order had its inn and the Grand Master had his palace. Beyond this is the BoĂşrgos or civilian area, where you will find a fascinating maze of streets, comprising the former Turkish and Jewish sectors of the town.
Entering the Old Town through DâAmboise Gate
Britta Jaschinski/Apa Publications
The Walls and Gates
The first impressive feature of the town is the walls themselves. Dating mostly from preparations for the 1480 siege, they sit strong and proud, especially beautiful at dawn, rosy-hued in the sunâs first rays, or at night, lit by the soft glow of wrought-iron lamps. The Knights did not begin the citadel from scratch; they elaborated a series of relatively modest Byzantine defences, creating eight sections of curtain walls, each one the responsibility of a separate langue (for more information, click here).
At one time each curtain had a gate; today there are 12 gates in use, each uniquely designed. Many are only wide enough to accept pedestrians or scooters. The most interesting is the DâAmboise Gate A [map] : situated in the northwest corner near the Palace of the Grand Masters (for more information, click here), it was built in 1512, during the reign of Grand Master Emery dâAmboise. It curves in an S-shape to outwit attackers and is then followed by a second, much simpler gate, Ăgios AndĂłnios (St Anthonyâs), which lies between two curtain walls.
Beside this gate is one of four discreetly signed entry tunnel-stairways leading to the dry moat B [map] , attractively landscaped on the west and southeast sides. You can follow a path in the moat from here all the way around the landward walls to the AkandiĂĄ Gate on the east side of the city. The walk takes about 30 minutes. However, it is not possible to gain direct access to many of the gates on this route as they sit high in the walls above, with bridges over the moat linking the Old Town to the outside world.
Victorious Ottoman Sultan SĂźleyman entered town through the southwesterly Ăgios AthanĂĄsios Gate in 1523 and ordered it sealed up thereafter; it was only reopened by the Italians. The gate is, however, now universally referred to as âĂgios FrangĂskosâ after the Italian-built Catholic church of that name just outside.
On the eastern side of the fortifications, facing KolĂłna Harbour, is the impressive Marine Gate (for more information, click here), plus in the northeast, linking KolĂłna and MandrĂĄki harbours, the smaller Ăgios PĂĄvlos (St Paulâs) Gate (for more information, click here). In 1924 the Italians decided that traffic would need access along the waterfront. They altered the walls, creating widened entrances for automobiles on the shore between MandrĂĄki and KolĂłna ports. The most important of these, Freedom Gate (PĂ˝li EleftherĂas) is located just west of St Paulâs Gate, isolating it and the now-vestigial Naillac Tower from the rest of the citadel. Today many visitors enter the Old Town through this gate as it is the nearest to the taxi stand and main MandrĂĄki bus stations.
This religious military order had three classes of membership, each bound by vows of chastity, poverty and obedience. Fully fledged knights were recruited from Europeâs noblest families and numbered around 650; commoners could serve as soldiers or nurses, while chaplains saw to their spiritual needs. There were eight langues or âtonguesâ: English, German, French, Provençal, Auvergnat, Aragonese (in fact Catalan), Castilian and Italian. Each langue lived in a compound called an inn, under an appointed prior. For security, they went about in pairs and left the walled domain only on horseback.
French influence outweighed the other tongues when it came to electing the lifelong post of Grand Master. Thus, 14 of the 19 Grand Masters were from one of the French langues, and French was the Orderâs spoken language (Latin was used for official documents). The Italiansâ maritime talents made them the obvious choice to command the fleet, while other tongues each defended a section, or âcurtainâ, of the city walls.
After being expelled from Rhodes, the knights were without a base for seven years, until the island of Malta was offered to them by Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. They changed their name to the Knights of Malta and successfully repelled a four-month Ottoman siege in 1565. Despite this, the order was fast becoming obsolete; nations could now outfit their own fleets more efficiently, and the new trade routes to the Americas and the Far East dwarfed the significance of the Mediterranean.
Nowadays the order has been revived in many countries (including Englandâs St John Ambulance Brigade) and engages in various medical and charitable ...