I
All the Days of Our Lives
(Psalm 27:4)
1
A Life with Things
Vanessa L. Ochs
Soon after my engagement, my future mother-in-law kept me lingering at her breakfast table in Lloyd Neck, New York. These people were technically Jews by birth and by a strong ethnic pride, yet it was a âWASPyâ home, the first âWASPyâ home I had ever been in. Their son, my fiancĂ©, was in rabbinical school, a situation that so dismayed his father, a man who ran from the old-world Jewish chicken-bone nonsense he had grown up with into the arms of science. He was metaphorically sitting shiva for his son until the blessed day he left seminary to work on a doctorate in philosophy.
Mrs. Ochs (which is what I called her) dressed in a pale blue lingerie set with matching pale blue leather slippers. For breakfast, after cut-up grapefruit, she served homemade blueberry pancakes with softened butter in a ramekin and warmed syrup in a crystal pitcher. In a hand-painted Italian ceramic creamer she had found at a fancy estate sale, she served what she called, âhoff and hoff,â as native Bostonians do. Every food needed a proper container once it was transported to the table. Even cereals were redistributed from their packages into Tupperware, and the milk for the cereal was properly jugged.
âI trust you have registered for China?â she asked rhetorically. She had paused, mid-sentence to hold her face, to address the pain of tic douleroux. But she never said anything about it; this too was part of the household decorum. To kvetch, even when justified, was not done.
What did it mean to register for a country, a communist country at that? I had never mentioned a particular interest in China, even though Nixon, Kissinger, and Ford were making social trips there and were seeing what the officials wanted them to see. Maybe if she had asked me when the whole world was turning toward China during the Olympics, first with smog and human rights violations on our minds, and later, with Michael Phelps and the prepubescent Chinese gymnasts seizing our attention, I could have impressed her favorably and fudged an appropriate response. That mattered to me in the early years, before I gave up trying to fly under her critical radar. Still, I felt lucky she had brought up China, presuming we were going to have a discussion of substance about geography or politics, and avoid invitations or guest lists. I was just nineteen, and even though I had just become engaged, I could give a fig about things that would fill a home. I was in love. The only thing I wanted was to have this boy forever.
Mrs. Ochs went on to explain. âYou need to give thought to selecting your china pattern, because itâs forever.â
âYou donât say,â I said, copying the expression she most fancied. It dawned on me that I might spend years ahead feigning interest in elegantly intrusive orations on home furnishings, upholstery, and the proper way to rear children (her way, 1950s style, with mother at home and children in playpens).
The next day, back home on the South Shore of Long Island, the Five Towns to be specific, Hewlett Harbor to be precise, I told my mother about what Mrs. Ochs had counseled me to do. My mother had heard of gift registries and she, an artist, who wore a mink coat with sneakers, shared my disdain. We agreed that it was rude, greedy, and presumptuous. Perhaps this business of registering for china was what WASPs did, another one of their quirks, like having trust funds but still driving beat-up station wagons.
âFailing to register, youâll end up with gifts you donât want,â Mrs. Ochs went on to say the next time I visited, sensing she might appeal to my pragmatism.
âYou donât say,â I said again, moving the conversation along.
I didnât know weâd be getting wedding presents. I had been to only one wedding as the flower girl. My aunt had taught me about going down the aisle dropping petals from a basket (step, together, drop, repeat), but she had mentioned nothing about brides signing up at Tiffany, Bloomingdaleâs, or Fortunoff so that they could outfit their real-life âBarbieâs Dream Housesâ with the objects they desired, and in the patterns they preferred. Perhaps I just wasnât listening.
A college junior, I had no idea just how many objects were necessary for daily life outside of a dorm. Didnât we already have more than everything we needed? There was my parentâs cast-off furniture in their basement; the pots and pans, bun-warmer and yogurt-maker my grandparents had gotten as premiums for starting new checking accounts in several banks; the Chagall poster from my dorm room, and âChristinaâs Worldâ from my fiancĂ©âs. In his seminary room, my fiancĂ© had four dishes for meat and four for milk; among his classmates, with his hot plate, he was practically the Jewish Galloping Gourmet. Maybe weâd need a cookbook other than The Vegetarian Epicure, a glass measuring cup, and more cinderblock shelves, but we certainly didnât need to fill a grad school flat with symbols of respectability.
Mrs. Ochs would not be giving up; her lectures grew impassioned. China, she explained, meant dishes, dishes you didnât use for everyday, dishes that symbolized an enduring marriage. The steps you took to preserve your china in a hutch mirrored those you took to preserve your marriage. That your dishes came from many people reflected the communityâs investment in your relationship. âWith the china,â taking a less foreboding approach, she concluded, âyou celebrate and make an impression.â She used a phrase I couldnât parse: âYour wedding china is for âbest.ââ She clarified, âChina is for company.â
My family did not, as a rule, have company, with the exception of the few times that my uncles Effie or Shep came for Shabbes so we could fix them up on Saturday night with my grade-school teachers who wore their hair teased way up in beehives. My mother bought Southern-fried chicken in a bag from the new Kosher take-out place, along with foil containers of egg-mushroom âbarley,â potato and spinach knishes wrapped in wax paper, containers of âhealthâ salad, coleslaw and potato salad, and a thick slice of kishke that was rationed off in slivers, lest too much kill a person with indigestion. She served this all up on paper plates for Shabbes dinner, Shabbes lunch, and Saturday night dinner. At the end of each meal, she was sucking the marrow out of the heap of bones on her grease-stained plate, making flute sounds.
Uncle Effie had married a woman from Montclair, une petite peu WASPy herself, and he called to say they were stopping by to visit on Saturday night, even though my mother told him explicitly not to come as she was going to bed early. It happened that she was annoyed with him, as usual, for some miniscule brotherly infraction, a failure to show respect. They came anyways, and my mother, already in pajamas, dimmed the lights in the dining room when she saw his car light coming around the bend. She told me lie low and do not laugh. She said, âEffie is in the doghouse.â Being a literalist, I said, âHeâs not in a doghouse. He and Auntie Bobbie are at the front door and they are wearing sleeping hats and bathrobes and Iâm letting them in.â Despite an awkward start, we all sat around the dining room table having a good time together, picking off pieces of a Wallâs marble cake still in the box, and using paper towels ripped off the roll as our plates.
My uncle and aunt, who sort of spoke together as a Greek chorus, both on and off the phone, threatened my mother: âOne day, your daughterâs future in-laws will make their first visit to your house to meet you, and theyâll be eating off your mix and match plates, or God forbid, paper plates. Look at thisâpaper towels! Like peasants! Theyâll be drinking some fancy French wine they brought you out of your yartzeit glasses. Do you know what theyâll think? Theyâll think that the girl their son wants to marry was raised by wolves, thatâs what theyâll think. Theyâll pull him out of your house by the scruff of his neck. Youâll never marry her off!â
As for good dinnerware, we did not have any, unless you counted the paper plates that were extra-strength. (This predated knowing there were carbon footprints to minimize. It came before recycling, unless you count using an empty borscht jar to store chicken soup so that the fat would rise to the top when you placed it in the refrigerator all night.) For everyday use, only we in my family could tell our milk and meat sets apart. Iâm not sure how, for none of the dishes matched, except for a few odd pieces, such as cups and saucers, items we never used as pairs. I suspect there may have originally been two full sets, but my mother was notoriously clumsy, breaking and chipping dishes regularly, particularly when she washed up. They had fallen in the act of kitchen duty. Her siblings called her gelengtere, which she said meant âthe clumsy one.â At one point, she said, she thought it was her name. Their appellation condemned her, but also was liberatory, permitting her to act without worrying what others thought. The ranks of our diminished dish sets were filled out with odd lots she had picked up at a store she said was called Six-Fifteen, calling her trips there for bargains her âfix,â a tiny nod to the drug culture passing us all by.
As for beverage service, we drank our juice out of yartzeit glasses that my mother had washed out after the dead had been properly remembered, the wax had melted, and the wick and its metal tag had been fished out. This was as close to a complete, matching set of anything we possessed. The glasses were so sturdy that they bounced off the mock-brick linoleum each time my mother dropped them. And with each year, our glass cemetery increased: one glass burned for the day of death, three burned for the festivals, and another, if I recall, around the time of the High Holidays, which was when the ancestors had been visited at their cemeteries in Queens or Brooklyn. Drinking out of yartzeit glasses was simply too creepy for me. Iâd sooner make a cup out of my hands rather than blur the boundaries between the glass that held the light of my ancestorâs soul one day and Tropicana from the Dairy Barn the next. They could go into the new dishwater everyday on the hottest germ-killing cycle, but there was no washing off death.
When my mother broke dishes, she sometimes said in Yiddish, âZol es zain a kapparaâââlet it be an atonement.â She prayed that this broken dish would stand as the substitute for something far more cherished that might otherwise have been broken, like a personâs ankle. Sometimes she shouted, âMazal tov,â as though she were at a wedding. Sheâd wish that all who were in hearing distance would pray about something good that might happen rather than dwell upon her clumsiness or upon what we had lost. For emphasis, sometimes sheâd add, âItâs just a thing.â
In Lloyd Neck, my future mother-in-law concluded her plea for registering for china by pointing to the dishes arranged in her dining room hutch, gesturing as if she were a docent at the Met about to lecture on the Ming dynasty: âThis is my china, my bone china.â She then intoned British terms I was unfamiliar with: âLenox, Royal Doulton, Wedgwood.â You would think our tour of faience had turned a corner and we had landed in the âEighteenth-Century Britishâ wing. She concluded, repeating facts I already knew by now: âMy daughter Janet married,â pausing here to accumulate gravitas, âat the Hotel Pierre. She registered for china.â True, but . . . her daughterâs marriage had been falling apart for years, and Mrs. Ochs foretold that her older sonâs, soon to be celebrated, was bound for breakage even before his wedding day. If china was supposed to inoculate, it hardly seemed foolproof.
I had taken to studying Talmud and learned that the ancient rabbis knew that some situations in life called out turning to objects instead of prayer. The insight probably came from their womenfolk who kept their eyes ever open for the practical prayer of holy things, even if the practices came from the neighboring peoples they were supposed to avoid. They tested out what worked and passed it on. There was the totefet, a charm packet worn as a necklace to ward off the evil eye. For wearing or holding in oneâs hand, there were amulets of parchment written by proven experts and amulets of roots of herbs, knots of madder roots, spice bundles in packets, and preserving stones to heal or even prevent illness or miscarriage. The women were adamant that these objects worked, and rabbis inevitably declared they could be worn or carried even on the Sabbath, when such activity would otherwise be proscribed.
My favorite Talmudic object, a do-it-yourself project, counteracted the burden of a fever that wouldnât go away. The feverish sufferer was sent to sit at a crossroads and capture a large ant. The ant was then enclosed in a copper tube, and the tube was closed with lead. The tube was further sealed with sixty different types of seals, and the feverish person carried it about, shaking it and saying, âYour burden upon me, and my burden upon you,â until the fever or its burden is gone. Rav Acha, imagining the possibility that the ant might have previously been seized and entombed by someone with an even worse affliction than ...