Nothing Must Spoil This Visit
āWatch it!ā
Janet winced as the Maruti swerved onto gravel to avoid another overburdened truck. She turned to glare at its driver, but all she could see were the words painted on the back: āHorn Please OK TA TA.ā In Toronto heād have been stopped for speeding, not wearing a seat belt, reckless endangerment, driving on the wrong side of the road, you name it.
āRelax,ā unflappable Arvind said. āPretend youāre on a ride at Canadaās Wonderland.ā
āIām trying.ā
āWait till we get off the GT Road ā the climb to Shimla is fabulous. Youāll love it.ā
A rose-silver dawn edged out the dark and Janet peered at the parched barren flatness of the north Indian plain. A slow tickle of sweat began its daily crawl at her temples. Soon, the sun knifed the sky and a fine dust jetted from the carās useless air conditioner and began to settle thick on her contact lenses. She leaned forward and turned it off. Arvind had begun another lesson in Indian history.
āWeāre passing through Panipat. Three battles were fought on those fields.ā He pointed, but all she could see were roadside shacks, three-wheeled tempos carrying loads cloaked in jute bags, men on bicycles, always more bicycles. She rolled down the window, unfettering the hot breath of May; it flattened her into the black vinyl.
āWant some sun screen?ā She offered him the plastic tube sheād thought to buy at Shoppers Drug Mart; Arvind waved it away as he wove the car between plodding bullock carts and listing, vomit-streaked buses.
India, up close. Ugliness, dirt, poverty, people. Janet closed smarting eyes.
At the white-marbled Indira Gandhi International Airport a week ago, they had been met by Kamal and his wife, Chaya. Janet had expected the brothers to be more demonstrative after ten years apart, but theyād given one another a ritual hug, no more. Sheād said to Kamal, āI didnāt expect you to be taller than Arvind ā he always calls you his little brother.ā
She hadnāt been able to tell if Kamalās reply was sarcastic or just overly formal. āArvind is shorter only because he no longer wears a turban.ā
Chaya had sparked to life briefly under that fluorescent glare ā and never since. Bedecked and a-jingle with gold bracelets, gold anklets and gold chains for their 4 a.m. arrival, she had first held Arvind close and then scanned Janet with a curiosity that took in her travel-crumpled jeans, clear-plastic-rimmed spectacles and the remnant of a perm in her brown hair.
āSheās very fair,ā she said to Arvind.
āSheāll get a tan on this trip!ā he replied.
Janet found herself snapping at Arvind, āCome on, letās get going.ā
Chaya still held Arvindās arm.
They followed Kamalās jeans and kurta and let his glowering intensity cut through the press of the crowds. He hailed a darting brown uniform to carry the luggage, which was full of 220-volt appliances Arvind had bought in Little India, and took custody himself of the duty-free liquor bag, saying to Arvind, āDoctorsahib still drinks all Papajiās whisky.ā
Janet could not imagine spry, gallant Papaji ever needing a doctor, but during their week in Delhi sheād realized Doctorsahib was Mumjiās buddy. He dropped in punctually at seven every evening to ask about Mumjiās blood pressure and to lean his coconut-oiled head on the back of her crimson velvet sofa, swirling a two-inch Patiala-peg of prohibited pleasure.
Mumji was as youthful and charming and gracious as Janet remembered her from that week in Montreal at their wedding five years ago, petite and perfumed in a starched cotton sari, her hair-netted bun of black hair firm at the nape of her neck, her Nina Ricci sunglasses and a solid silver box of sweet-smelling supari always within reach.
Really, Arvindās family had been welcoming and kind.
At the sandbagged black-and-white-striped blockade at the Punjab border, Arvind wasnāt questioned after the AK-47-toting policeman looked at his brown skin and mustache through the driverās window. He didnāt volunteer his Canadian passport when Janetās was requested for a check of its special visa for the state of Punjab. The policeman raked her bare legs with a lecherous eye and permitted her, finally, to return to the car. He spoke briefly to Arvind in Hindi.
āWhat did he say?ā Janet asked.
āHe said I picked up a mame.ā He grinned at her.
āAunty Mame?ā Surely the policeman couldnāt have seen that film.
āNo. A mame is a contraction of mem-sahib.ā
āNot meant as a polite term, Iām sure.ā
āItās what they call all white women.ā
āWhy didnāt you show him your passport?ā Her sense of fairness was offended.
āHe didnāt ask.ā
āWhy not?ā
āHe took me for a Hindu, since I no longer wear a turban.ā
āWhy didnāt you correct him?ā
Arvind slowed for bright orange Escort tractors rainbowed with the turbans of farmers, but he didnāt answer.
It wasnāt a bit like him and it wasnāt fair to her ā she wasnāt some ignorant tourist whoād read just one guide book; she was a woman whoād learned to make perfect samosas for him from Mrs. Yogi Bhajanās cookbook and whoād studied the art and the history of India.
āWhy didnāt you correct him?ā she repeated.
Arvind still didnāt answer.
āLook! Stop, Arvind! Thereās a pottery stall.ā
Arvind pulled over and watched Janet bound out of the car, rupees at the ready. Those gaudy Hindu idols werenāt the calibre of the artifacts she worked to restore at the Royal Ontario Museum, but they would feed her thirst for the exotic for a while. He checked the carās water level while he waited ā what Janet called his engineerās tinkering was all the meditation or prayer he ever needed. Anyu, strange old Hungarian bird, had waited till Janet was ten to break the news about Santa Claus, but sheād never taught Janet to pray.
āArvind, come see the baskets. Such beautiful baskets.ā
Janet didnāt wait for him anyway. She, who wouldnāt trust herself to bargain with a Yonge Street junk dealer, would bargain in broken Hindi for baskets, as if a dollar here or there would make a difference to their life.
She was as excited in India as heād been when he first arrived in Montreal. Heād met her the month after heād bought his first Jaguar. Sheād read to him from her art history textbooks while he lay, asphalt cool at his back, under the car, and sheād trusted heād take her someplace beautiful⦠eventually. Heād tried to show her the rhyme and the reason of that Jagās engine, but she couldnāt find beauty under all that dirt and grease.
How could he expect her to understand why he hadnāt shown the policeman his passport with the visa permitting him to enter his home state, the visa so stamped and official? There she was, aglow in that inviolable cocoon of Canadian niceness. Whereas he and the policeman were like the twigs of those baskets in the stall ā woven together, yet tense with a contained rebellion. You couldnāt pull one twig from those baskets without unravelling the whole. He couldnāt talk about possible danger and unpleasantness if it were obvious he was a Sikh, couldnāt remind her about the articles sheād clipped from the paper for him ā articles on the massacre of Sikhs at the Golden Temple just two years ago, articles that referred to all Sikhs as terrorists. Honesty may be the best policy when youāre faced with a Mountie, but here⦠nothing must spoil this visit.
āHow much is pachas rupaya?ā The shopkeeperās English vocabulary was proving as limited as Janetās Hindi.
āFifty,ā he said. Somewhere between Montreal and Toronto, heād given up arguing against her belief that people all over the world are the same, just with different languages, art and music. When theyād abandoned his turbans and left long arcs of his brown-black hair on the floor of a Greek barbershop in Montreal, a city become hostile to his English, hadnāt she suppressed her French, ignoring Torontoās bilingual road signs? She who spoke Hungarian on her Sunday long-distance phone calls to Anyu now called herself an anglophone.
āCan we fit these in the back seat?ā Janet beamed, a basket under each arm.
In Montreal, Janet had been enchanted when he had bent his (then) turbaned head over a sitar, cross-legged on his sole item of furniture, a mattress. It must have been Anyu whoād made her daughter this seeker of beautiful things, past and present. Anyu, who must have taken a vow on arriving in Canada to fashion her Janetās life into a procession of perfect, agreeable, beautiful experiences. Somehow, Anyu had protected her daughterās illusions through the seventies, and now he had the job.
āMove the garment bag, would you?ā Janetās triumph was palpable.
But he knew Anyu still warned from Montreal, āDonāt have children yet, it may not work out.ā Janet hadnāt told Anyu yet (and neither had he) that it wasnāt a matter of choice.
Looking out at earth-tone people blending into earth-tone villages ā some with TV antennae rising from thatch ā Janet remembered how enthusiastic sheād been about this trip. She wanted to experience India with him, his India, the India heād told her of so many times. As soon as theyād arrived at his parentsā home, Arvind had changed from pants and a jacket and tie to a white kurta-pyjama and sandals. When sheād worn a sari, thinking to please Papaji, the whole family had applauded.
Only Chaya remarked, āShe walks so funny in a sari.ā
It was true, of course. Arvind tried to teach her to glide a little more gracefully, but sheād reverted to pants and a T-shirt the next day.
Mumji, always so charming, had tried to persuade her to return to the unaccustomed garb or at least try a salwar kameez, murmuring, āThe best clothes for heat and modesty have been tested over centuries, dear.ā
Arvind had come to her defence. āJanet comes from a young country, Mumji. Women in Canada believe in learning by experience.ā
Sheād seen Kamal then, looking over at Chaya as though afraid this remark was inappropriate for her ears, but Chaya sat with her vacuous smile, stroking her sonās handkerchiefed topknot.
Mumji had coaxed everyone back into harmony with a teasing smile at Arvind.
āNot everything needs to be reinvented, even by engineers.ā She had gone on to admire the width of Janetās hips, venturing the ever-so-gentle reminder that it was āhigh timeā she provided Arvindās family with grandchildren. Mumji was right ā like Arvind, Janet was four years away from forty ā butā¦. Now Janet told herself she should expect Mumjiās gentle intrusions, and anyway, Mumji was in Delhi, probably fanning herself in the languid dark of her air-conditioned bedroom with one of her Femina magazines. Janet imagined herself telling Anyu that her daughter had poured mustard-seed oil on a wood threshold and touched the feet of her husbandās mother. Anyu, who had lived under Communists, would say, āYou start bowing your head once, it gets easier and easier.ā
Outside Chandigarh, Arvind stopped at a roadside Government Milk Bar, but Janet was wary of germs in the chilled bottles of sweetened spiced milk. At Kalka, he waded through a throng of indolent men in white kurta-pajamas to get her a bottle of Campa Cola to wash down the dust. She wiped the top of the bottle with a fastidious white tissue and shook her head when he offered to throw it from the car window when she was finished.
The car began to climb the Himalayas. Cooler air released them from the frenetic pulse of the plains. The scent of pine logs mixed with black diesel truck fumes as the little car screeched up winding roads that gripped the mountain ālike a pythonās coils,ā Arvind said, laughing at her shudder.
He pointed to the precipitous drop to the valley below.
āThat drop is called the khud,ā he said.
āKud.ā She could not aspirate the consonant, even after five years of marriage. And anyway, she wasnāt planning to use Hindi or Punjabi in Toronto.
At Solan, he stopped to buy beer as though it were a normal adjunct to driving ā he even took a swig before getting back in the car. She would not remonstrate. This trip, this pilgrimage, was too important. Nothing must spoil it. Besides, the cool peace of the terraced mountains etched against the afternoon sky, the ebbing of crowds, and the absence of Papaji, Mumji, Doctorsahib, Kamal and Chaya had lulled her to a dreamy calm. She waved at Tibetan refugee women chiselling stone from the mountain, sleeping babies slung upon their backs, and was rewarded by smiles tinged with slight puzzlement, but never a wave.
Chaya knew Kamal was pretending to be asleep as the morning preparations for Arvind and Janetās leave-taking were conducted in whispers outside the door. She left him alone long after the car had sped away up the next flyover on Ring Road; she wanted this time after Arvind was gone, this unaccustomed silence before any servants began their morning racket in the kitchen and before Papajiās Hindu tenantās wife began ringing her little bells and chanting the daily Aarti, to dream. What if, ten years ago, she had married Arvind instead, as everyone had intended?
It was planned so: Chaya would bring him a heart pure as Shimla snow, brimming with love, and he would take her to Canada, where she would bear many children.
After their engagement, she had grown suddenly shy of the boy Arvind whom she had known all her life. Everyone had permitted ā expected ā her to give him her love. When he left a month later, she had written him letters in her round, convent-educated hand. āHow are you? By the grace of God your Mumji and Papaji and Kamal are wellā¦ā But Arvind wrote back about the vast number of books in the library at McGill, the underground shopping malls and cars in Montreal, how heād bought a new hair dryer to dry his long hair, how he burnt two cups of sugar to caramel trying to make parshaad for the Gurdwara⦠as though Chaya had been his younger sister.
Mumji hadnāt returned to bed, either, and Chaya could hear her in the bathroom, filling a plastic water bucket for her morning bath. The tap sounded hollow-dry at first, then she heard a sputter, and the thin stream rose in pitch as the water began rising in the bucket. The mame had used two buckets of water yesterday and there had been none left for Chaya to bathe. Today Mumji would āforgetā to leave enough water for her to wash her hair. But Chaya told herself she didnāt mind; Arvind was gone with his pale, large-boned wife.
She unlocked the doli in the kitchen for the day, taking a mental inventory of the sugar and checking the level of the milk in the covered steel pan on the rack in the shaky old fridge. The cook used too much milk and sugar in his constant cups of tea till there wasnāt enough left by evening for Chaya to make yoghurt. Had Mumji noticed Arvind had married a woman who didnāt like yoghurt?
She counted the eggs. The dishwasher boy stole at least two a day and Mumji said Chaya just wasnāt firm enough. But at least Mumji said it lovingly; her old college friends said ther...