The Irish Paradox

How and Why We Are Such a Contradictory People

Sean Moncrieff

• Verlag: Gill Books
• Jahr: 2015
• ISBN:
  9780717166053
• Thema: Social Sciences
• Thema: Cultural & Social Anthropology

What does it mean to be Irish? 'We've been clever and stupid, principled and corrupt. We can be kind and cruel, guilty of dopey optimism and chronic fatalism. We're friendly, but near impossible to get to know. We're proud to be Irish but often crippled with self-loathing. We think we're great, but not really. We find ourselves fascinating. Of course we do. We're a paradox.' There's something about Irish people, about the way their minds work. But what does it mean to be Irish?In his search for the key to the Irish psyche, Sean Moncrieff roams far and wide – from the pub to the dole queue, the laboratory to the pulpit. Packed with offbeat anecdotes, observations and intriguing detours into the murkier recesses of Irish history and culture, The Irish Paradox is a roadmap for those struggling to make sense of a country defined as much by its contradictions as its sense of community.

Chapter 1

Not One Thing or the Other

Ireland is a stew. It has been for most of its history. The Vikings came, then the Normans, then waves of English and Scots. Millions of Irish people went away and never came back. Then, in the first decade of this century, over 100,000 returned, along with migrants from around Europe, the Americas, Asia – people who by their very presence here have made their own indentations on Irish life and have changed the ether of Irishness. According to the 2011 census, nearly 20 per cent of the population are classified as immigrants. In a decade, Ireland transformed from a homogenous, pale-skinned society to a multi-ethnic one.

Ireland was once a country in thrall to a strict Catholic morality, but within 30 years the power of the church evaporated. We became secular. In 1993, we were one of the last countries in Europe to decriminalise homosexuality. In 2015, we became the first country in the world to vote for same-sex marriage. For many years we were one of the poorest countries in Europe, then we morphed into the second richest nation on earth. For decades we attempted to insulate ourselves from the outside world, then flipped to become one of the most globalised places on the planet.

We’ve been clever and stupid, principled and corrupt. We can be kind and cruel, guilty of dopey optimism and chronic fatalism. We’re friendly, but near impossible to get to know. We peddle myths to ourselves and to anyone else prepared to listen to them in the hope that the myths prove to be true. We’re proud to be Irish but often crippled with self-loathing. We think we’re great, but not really.

We find ourselves fascinating.

Of course we do. We’re a paradox.

That’s what we’re looking at in this book: the contradictory, mutating nature of Irishness. Because if there is one constant of our national character, it’s uncertainty. We’re never quite sure what kind of people we are.

I’m part of this stew. I’m Irish, and like a lot of Irish people I was born in England. The first place I remember is 60 Cobbold Road in Willesden, northwest London. My father was born in Edinburgh and my mother was from Killala in County Mayo. For the times, they were an unlikely match. He was from a Protestant family while my mother was the most ardent sort of Irish Catholic. But perhaps these differences mattered less in a clamorous city where every face was strange.

What they had in common was more important. They had travelled from faraway places where there was a stony acceptance of what today we’d call poverty, but they never would have; other people were poor. Yet it had enough of a dream-crushing quality to prompt them to pack a bag and get on a train. It was life. You got on with it. My father had a childhood memory of coming home to find his baby sister dead, laid out on the dresser. His family home was a dank, Dickensian basement flat on Tron Square in the centre of Edinburgh, where to be male meant being a big drinker and a hard man.

So with a group of others (which briefly included Sean Connery), he headed south to work on building sites beside Scots and Irish and all the other economic refugees.

Dad wasn’t, however, extravagant with his recollections. Like my mother, he came from a generation that didn’t dwell on past miseries. Even to speak about them was considered weak, or worse, complaining. You got on with it.

Mum was even more closed. From what she occasionally let slip, I have a picture of her as a wistful young girl. She liked to cycle around the Mayo countryside. She read poetry, Yeats: I will arise and go now. Yet my sister and I don’t know when, or in what circumstances, she travelled to London. Perhaps we should have asked more when they were alive, but they would both reflexively close up in response to any direct questions. Ah, what do you want to know that for? The past, or at least the bad bits, didn’t need to be remembered.

What we have managed to thread together is that she arrived at some stage during the Second World War. For a time, perhaps during the summer months, she worked as a Clippie – the slang term for female bus conductors. The rest of the time, she taught. After her death we found a job reference stating that Miss O’Reilly came to St Louis High School in Frome, Somerset, in December 1945, where she taught Form 1 boys and girls. She was a good, conscientious teacher, according to the letter, and a popular member of staff. Where she went after that, we don’t know. How long she was in the country beforehand is also a mystery. She may have arrived when the war had just ended. She may have seen London in flames.

They were introduced through a mutual friend – an Irishman – courted and (after my father had converted to Catholicism) married. There is a wedding picture of them that sat beside my mother’s bed during her final days in the nursing home. They are in the back seat of some chauffeured car, shiny-faced and impossibly young. As far as we know, no family members from either side travelled to the wedding. London was very far away.

Cobbold Road was the first place I remember, though it was not the first place I lived. Before that there was a ground floor flat on Melrose Avenue in Cricklewood, a long road of shabby, late Victorian houses, all of which had been broken up into flats. It later achieved a grim fame for being one of the two places that the serial killer Dennis Nilsen operated from.

My sister Helen, who remembers the Cricklewood flat as dark and a bit scary, can remember travelling back from the hospital in a taxi with our parents and me, the new addition to the family. When we got home, she asked if I would be staying long and when, exactly, they would be taking me back to the hospital.

Not long after that we moved to Willesden. By then my father was working in a factory (a step up from the building site) and there was a general sense in our family of working towards something significant – specifically, house ownership, an achievement that would edge the Moncrieffs from working class to lower middle class. It was our mother who was particularly keen that this happened. She was the one who scrimped and saved and doggedly fought every little financial indulgence. In material terms, her family had been not much better off than my father’s, but under the tenets of the unspoken Irish class system, she’d been able to grow up thinking that she was a bit better than that. She’d done the Leaving Certificate, which somehow qualified her to teach in England. To have to live in this part of London – to have to live in England at all – she regarded as an affront.

The houses in Cobbold Road were terraced and red-bricked, though after decades of being smeared in smog the exterior walls resembled the faces of miners emerging from the pit. They were built in the 1880s as part of a furious urbanisation of the area. In the 1960s there were still some Irish living there, along with Poles and Jews, Afro-Caribbeans and Asians. The homes, as originally designed, would have had three bedrooms along with a parlour and kitchen downstairs – quite comfortable for a family our size. But that was never the intention, and not how most people on the street lived. My parents rented the house and sub-let the top section to the Kennedys, a family with a noisy squad of kids who provided Mum with plenty to complain about. Later on, the Kennedys moved out and we took over the top section of the house, presumably to avoid having another set of noisy tenants above us. The downstairs flat was let to an elderly English woman called Mrs Jones and her dog, Lassie. She lived alone, though she was visited regularly by her middle-aged son. Sometimes he would stay over, and one day Mrs Jones found him dead. He had hanged himself.

My memories of the upstairs flat are the most vivid. There was a large bedroom at the front that had been partitioned into two rooms: one for my parents and the other for my sister and I. Behind that was the room where we did everything else: cooking, eating, sitting, bathing, watching television. My parents would sit on a stiff armchair and do piece work for extra money. They would assemble biro pens or insert transistors into Stylophones, a kind of small electronic organ that was advertised on the telly by Rolf Harris. Further back, on the return landing, was another room that I don’t recall us using. It stored massive bags of unassembled pens, though in one corner my father had built a small partition room that housed a chemical toilet. This was to save us having to trek out to the back garden to use the flush toilet we shared with Mrs Jones. But I avoided using the chemical loo whenever I could. The room was too dark and it smelled funny.

There was no bathroom. We had a pink plastic bath that was gradually filled with water from a boiled kettle.

I would play mostly in the bedroom. I had two Action Men, a Major Matt Mason, a teddy bear and an old doll of Helen’s, all of which lived in a house I constructed from cardboard and yards of sellotape my father would bring me home from work. My favourite telly programme was Lost in Space, and I hoped that when I grew up everyone would own lasers and jet cars and be able to visit the moon any time they wanted. When Mum wasn’t looking, I’d slide around on the lino floor of the kitchen, pretending I could fly. I would ascend to one of the cupboards under the sink and sneak out the biscuits needed to sustain my super powers: custard creams.

We went to Saint Joseph’s Primary School on Goodson Road, a worn Victorian building with Harry Potter-esque turrets, dark wood floors and brick walls glazed the colour of the Atlantic. Many of the kids in my class lived nearby. Kevin Edmunds (Irish father, English mother) lived two doors up. On the other side were the Harmons, also Irish, who had only one child, Adrian. Not a cool kid. My best friend lived two streets away, on Franklyn Road. His name was also Sean, though his surname is lost to me now. There were other children we knew from playing on the street. George and Maria White lived in an upstairs flat like us, but it was much more modern. The Whites had a washing machine and Maria got to wash her hair every day. Helen had a friend named Susan Smith who was Catholic but went to mass only at Easter and Christmas. Her father was English, her mother Cypriot. Due to their à la carte Catholicism, our mother didn’t approve of the Smiths.

And there was a man who lived opposite, whose name we also can’t remember now. But he was Irish and we would regularly see him at mass in Our Lady of Willesden Church, which, confusingly, was located in Harlesden. He would light lots of candles, but never took communion. The story was that his wife had divorced him, and because of this the man assumed he was excommunicated, but had always been too scared to ask a priest.

We were aware of who was Irish and who was not, but only just, and only because our mother felt the need to point it out. We were young and had no concept of nationality and all the historical weight that went with it. At the time, ‘Irish’ seemed more a statement of worth. ‘Irish’ was good, others not so much.

But we knew we were different, which was something else she constantly reminded us of. We lived in a huge, callous city, where the vast majority of people were not like us; so different, in fact, that they were to be suspected. And the main way that difference manifested itself was not through nationality, but religion. Or to put it another way, being Irish and Catholic seemed largely the same thing. Ireland was the home of Catholicism, and it was the best thing to be. Below that were Irish Catholics who didn’t fulfil their responsibilities through omissions such as not going to mass every Sunday, and below that, a tiny sub-group that our mother referred to as ‘good-living Protestants’. At the time I didn’t know there was such a thing as English Catholics, or Irish Protestants. I thought they were all mutually exclusive. Helen can remember, when we moved to Ireland, being shocked that the Irish weren’t quite as devout as how our mother had presented them.

The reminders of our Catholicism were constant, like a protection from the primeval tangle around us. We went to a school where morning prayers were part of the routine; at night we would be corralled into saying a decade of the rosary; and every Sunday we would make our way to Our Lady of Willesden Church, an enormous Romanesque hall with vaulted ceilings and back-stiffening chairs. I would be dressed in short pants and a blazer, while Helen had to endure itchy Crimplene suits, a mantilla to cover her head, or worse, a hat that would be secured by way of a pin plunged into her skull.

The church was so large that it seemed as if every Irish Catholic in London went there. The mass was gruellingly long and broken up only by the walk to take communion. Helen could do this before I could, and I was nakedly jealous of her for it. Making my confirmation after that seemed eons away, and extravagantly grown up.

Expressions of Irishness were less regular, and felt more like an allegiance, like supporting a football team. There were records that would be played: Seven Drunken Nights by the Dubliners or Val Doonican, who also had his own television show, where he would inoffensively croon and wear jaunty jumpers. Helen did Irish dancing.

But the main expression was in our holidays. Despite all the financial stringency, every year we trekked to Ireland for two weeks. At a time when the package holiday was still a rarity, going to another country every year did mark us out as different. It was fantastically exciting, almost exotic, and even today the metallic sounds and smells of the car ferry make me slightly giddy.

The journey, however, was tortuous. A six-hour drive to Holyhead, a three-hour crossing, followed by an equally long drive to wherever we had rented a holiday home in the west of Ireland: Westport or Swinford or Galway. The location would be chosen on the basis that it was close enough to Castlebar, where our cousins, the Dunfords, lived. The dates would be chosen so that my father could attend the Galway Races with my Uncle Alfie, something they did together for decades after.

Alfie was the golden child of my mother’s family, being the eldest, the only boy and the one who went to study medicine in UCD. But due to a chronic lung condition, he never completed his degree and so returned to Killala to live with my grandmother and, after that, with his sister Kathleen and her husband, Tom Foy (for some reason never made clear to me, he was always referred to as Tom Foy, even by Kathleen). Because he was in receipt of a disability pension, Alfie never worked, but he did invest considerable energy into studying horses. He had a room filled with dusty towers of newspaper clippings and he had a professorial grasp of the form and history of various horses, jockeys and trainers. But how often, or how much, he gambled was not known. He would deflect all such enquiries with a bluff jauntiness. For years I would ask how he did at the Galway Races, and I always got the same answer. He would hold up one finger, meaning one pound, but wouldn’t say whether he had won the pound or lost it.

My middle name is Francis, after my father, who everyone called Frank. Alfie, in a gently teasing way, would always call me John Francis, as if to remind us both of where I was born and where my father came from. On holidays I would proclaim to my aunts and uncles and relatives that I was Irish – because they always asked, and I always wanted to please them. I have wondered since if Alfie was telling me no, you’re not – and you don’t have to be.

But this is retrospective speculation. On another occasion, while on a visit to Killala, Alfie brought myself, my sister and one or two cousins to see a cow being slaughtered. It took place in a shed not too far from my grandmother’s house. I was about six at the time and had no idea what something like that might involve: that a gun-like implement would be put to the animal’s head, shooting through its skull, and that the animal would squeal and stagger while pints of brown blood gushed from the hole. A man tried to control the dying cow and collect the blood in a basin.

I don’t know how long this went on for. It seemed like hours, at least for however long I remained there. I ran back to the house, wondering what was wrong with me that I couldn’t witness what the others seemed to be able to watch with casual interest, though later on, Helen admitted that she, too, was horrified. When they returned, Alfie, as jaunty as ever, asked, What happened to you? I made some excuse. Perhaps he was making a point by bringing us there, or perhaps it never occurred to him that all that death and blood might be difficult for a six-year-old to take. But it was the first time that it occurred to me that Ireland was different to where I lived, that being Irish might involve more than just saying it.

Our visits to Killala were usually brief – day trips for the...