When travelers talk about visiting the interior of Belize, they are usually refering to the lush, mountainous rainforests around the town of San Ignacio, long the heart of the country’s ecotourism trade. The region is a nature-lover’s fantasy come true. Spread out across a remote subtropical wilderness are dozens of cabaña-style lodges, many of them quite luxurious. Within striking distance – by car, horseback, canoe, or foot – are secluded, jungle-rimmed swimming holes, enormous limestone caverns, Belize’s most significant Maya ruins and Central America’s highest waterfalls. The background music is the shriek of tropical birds, while iguanas, gibnuts, and skunks habitually stroll across the well-marked nature trails.
The Mopan River.
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Hand-winched ferry en route to Xunantunich.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Meanwhile, the rainforests are surprisingly free of Belize’s least popular life form, the mosquito – the higher altitude makes days around San Ignacio hot without being overwhelming, while evenings can almost be described as cool.
On the frontier with Guatemala, this is also one of the more Hispanic parts of Belize, populated largely by Spanish-speaking mestizos, and Maya farmers; second in numbers come creoles, followed by a classically Belizean smattering of East Indians, Chinese, and Lebanese. Several large communities of Mennonites farm the rich land and can be seen clattering along the highways in horse-drawn carriages.
From Belize City, the journey west is itself an interesting one, with Belize Zoo (for more information, click here) just 30 minutes before you reach Belmopan on the George Price (Western) Highway, Guanacaste Park literally on the doorstep of the capital and St Herman’s Cave and the inland version of the Blue Hole just a few miles past Belmopan. All are popular, and worthwhile, detours. For curiosity’s sake, you can, of course, stop in the capital, although even more than four decades after its establishment, Belmopan continues to remain largely the domain of government workers – a far cry from the commercial social bustle of Belize City.
Streetside restaurant, Belmopan.
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Belmopan
Founded in 1971, Belmopan 1 [map] is the Brazilia of Belize: an artificial capital that has never quite caught on. Government ministries are based here, but most politicians would rather commute from Belize City than take up permanent residence.
Belmopan was former Prime Minister George Price’s vision of ‘a modern capital for an emerging nation.’ The idea of an inland location had first been fielded after Belize City was devastated by Hurricane Hattie in 1961. Price hoped that a planned city would attract Belizeans from all over the country, and eventually replace Belize City as a commercial and cultural center. He also hoped it would centralize the government by bringing each ministry together on the same compound with new, efficient facilities.
Things didn’t go quite so smoothly as on paper, however. The new government offices, designed to resemble a Maya temple and plaza, were much too small, so today many offices are located away from the center of town. Instead of cutting red tape, the move to Belmopan created it. Citizens had to travel all the way to the capital to have documents signed or obtain permits. Before long, government branch offices in Belize City and other towns were given the same power as the head office in the capital.
The biggest problem of all was that Belizeans weren’t willing to move to Belmopan – and most still aren’t. Belmopan’s population hovers around 12,000 inhabitants, many of whom are refugees from neighboring countries in Central America. A large number of Belizeans who work here commute the hour or so each way from Belize City or San Ignacio rather than live here full time. Even after Hurricane Mitch miraculously bypassed Belize in 1998 and forced thousands to bunk in with Belmopan relatives, there was no mass rush to move out of Belize City into the new capital. After considerable pressure from the government, the University College of Belize (now the University of Belize) finally agreed to expand its existing Belmopan Junior College and vacate most of its Belize City classrooms.
It’s not that Belizeans don’t like Belmopan, it’s just that they find the town too quiet. With only a smattering of hotels and a few restaurants, there isn’t much for the predominantly young, single, government employees to do for excitement. One of the biggest events of the year is the National Agriculture and Trade Show, held in late April at the fairgrounds, which draws thousands for three days of exhibitions and socializing. Belmopan’s searing temperatures don’t help lure anyone to settle here either: in the middle of the day, it’s rarely below 100°F (40°C) and noticeably devoid of breezes.
Apolitical center of politics
On the other hand, the few who choose to live in Belmopan enjoy well-maintained roads, clean neighborhoods, and a low crime rate. Unlike Belize City, there is ample room for expansion. Belmopan residents also take in their stride the numerous Central American refugees in settlements like Salvapan, Las Flores, and Ten Cents Creek on the outskirts of town. The immigrants here have fitted in more easily than in other parts of Belize, taking jobs as domestic laborers, construction workers, street vendors, or milpa farmers, and sending their children to school. And, Belmopan’s merchants and restaurant and bar owners welcome the new business.
National Assembly building, Belmopan.
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Road to Spanish Lookout.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Exploring the mini-capital
Belmopan has few historical monuments, and most of the buildings are administrative offices − in 10 minutes on the Ring Road, you can take in all the sights. But if you have to go to Belmopan on business, or are making a stop en route to somewhere else, there are a few pleasant places to spend a couple of hours.
The best place to start is Market Square, which at any given moment is usually the busiest place in town: buses serving destinations all over Belize stop here and there are several banks, the Caladium restaurant, where the menu includes traditional Belizean and international dishes, smaller food stands, and shops nearby. Central American street vendors sell tasty corn and chicken tamales and other local goodies.
Among the city’s key national buildings are the National Archives, near the ring road and open to the public, which is used mostly for research and contains ...