Delicioso

A History of Food in Spain

María José Sevilla

• Éditeur: Reaktion Books
• Année: 2019
• ISBN:
  9781789141894
• Sujet: Art
• Sous-sujet: Culinary Arts

Spanish cuisine is a melting-pot of cultures, flavors, and ingredients: Greek and Roman; Jewish, Moorish, and Middle Eastern. It has been enriched by Spanish climate, geology, and spectacular topography, which have encouraged a variety of regional food traditions and "Cocinas, " such as Basque, Galician, Castilian, Andalusian, and Catalan. It has been shaped by the country's complex history, as foreign occupations brought religious and cultural influences that determined what people ate and still eat. And it has continually evolved with the arrival of new ideas and foodstuffs from Italy, France, and the Americas, including cocoa, potatoes, tomatoes, beans, and chili peppers. Having become a powerhouse of creativity and innovation in recent decades, Spanish cuisine has placed itself among the best in the world.This is the first book in English to trace the history of the food of Spain from antiquity to the present day. From the use of pork fat and olive oil to the Spanish passion for eggplants and pomegranates, María José Sevilla skillfully weaves together the history of Spanish cuisine, the circumstances affecting its development and characteristics, and the country's changing relationship to food and cookery.

Index

Page numbers in italics indicate illustrations

Abd al-Raḥmān I 40–41, 44

Abd al-Raḥmān III 41, 49, 51–4, 52–3

Adrià, Ferran 243, 244–8, 246–7

Aduriz, Adoni Luis 248

agraz 38, 165, 205

albóndigas (meatballs) 44, 55, 141, 207, 288, 294

see also meat dishes

Alfonso VI of Castile 54, 67–8, 69, 307

Alfonso XII 209–10, 211–12

Alfonso XIII 219–20, 223, 286

Alicante 161, 232, 282–3

fideua pasta competition 279

nougat 288

olleta de music 287

see also Levante

Almoravids and Almohads 54, 61, 69, 70, 87

see also Moors and Islam

Almuñécar 40, 40

Altimiras, Juan de, New Art of Cooking 163–4, 176, 200

Alto Ebro

bacalao (salt cod) 266

Cocinas (regional cooking) 265–7

cogollos 266

conejo con anís (rabbit with aniseed) 266

cordero al chilindrón (lamb in a rice sauce) 266

crema de alubias (bean stew) 267

menestras (vegetable dishes) 265

migas (bread) 265–6

Navarre see Navarre

Rioja see Rioja

vegetables 265, 266–7

wine production 267

anafe stove 45, 47, 50, 55, 147

Andalusia 19–20

agraz 205

Antequera 299

arroz dulce de Aljarafe (fish stew) 296

bitter oranges 38, 42–3, 43

cabrito a la miel (kid cooked with honey) 294

Cádiz see Cádiz

caldillo de perro (fish soup) 42–3

carrilleras de cerdo o ternera (cheeks) 154–5

Cocinas (regional cooking) 200, 293–301

Cordoba see Cordoba

gazpacho andaluz 295, 295

Granada see Granada

Gypsies 297–8

Ibérico hams 152, 275, 276–7, 296

Las Chimeneas restaurant 301

Málaga see Málaga

Mantecados de Antequera 299

olives 296

pestiños (pastries) 296

raya a la naranja amarga (ray with bitter oranges) 42

Seville see Seville

Sierra Morena project 179–80

Antequera 299

Aragon 36, 77

bread as dues to Crown 78

Crown of Aragon 76, 77–8, 79, 81, 84–5, 280

saffron 48–9, 49

ternasco en cazuela (slow-cooked lamb) 63

see also Catalonia

arrop (syrup) 288

art and still-lifes 144–7, 157–8, 224–5

Arzak, Elena 248

Arzak, Juan Mari 239, 240

Asturias

borona (cornbread) 258

caldereta (fish stew) 258

carbayones (pastries) 259

Casa Marcial restaurant 249

cereal production 95, 253, 257–9

cheesemaking 305–6

chopa a la sidra (bream in cider) 258

cider 258

Cocinas (regional cooking) 252, 257–8

Cudilleros 257

fabada (bean dish) 258–9

fabes con almejas (beans with clams) 258

farrapes (porridge) 258

frixuelos (pancakes) 259

Oviedo 258, 259

smoked meat 252

tortos (flatbread) 258

Atapuerca 11, 13–14

Azcaray sisters, El Amparo cookbooks 221–3

Aztecs see Mexico, Aztecs and Mayans

bacalao (salt cod) 121–3, 131, 164, 222, 241, 262, 266

see also fish

Balearic Islands 72, 79

aubergines 292

cocas (pastries) 292–3

Cocinas (regional cooking) 289–93

ensaimada pastry 186, 293

flaó tart 293

Mahón cheese (Minorca) 310

mahonesa sauce 289–90

Majorcan black pigs 292

Palma de Mallorca 290–92

panellets (cakes) 289

tomatiga de ramellet 63, 290, 291

tumbet 292

barbarian invasion 30–32

Barcelona 161, 18...